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Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus? (Read 3138 times)

Pantontino

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Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 07, 2003, 08:43:19 pm
What is the current consensus grade for this? Just curious that's all.
I did it back in '94 (I think?) and I'm assuming the current guidebook grade is wrong?

What say you cognoscenti of the Peak?

fatboySlimfast

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#1 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 07:49:07 am
Which one Si, the easy or 'hard ' one? people get the two mixed up
The hard one isnt that bad, played on it six year ago and went back autumn last year and did it third try wit si berrys beta(which helped a lot!!)
V7?
oh forgot to add that the snapped hold people were talking about didnt affect it!

dobbin

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#2 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 08:07:09 am
You see now I'm confused, if you mean that low traverse around the back of the boulder on good holds, starting on the left and going round to the right I thought the book gave it B7 and I'd tend to agree. Of course I'm probably talking about a completely different problem.

fatboySlimfast

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#3 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 08:10:50 am
jeez, have u ever climbed here boy!!!
On the back side of those boulders is a vertical to overhanging wall, which u traverse on crimpers and the odd slopers! This is also sometimes called the walnut whip...
in fact dont you walk passed this to get to the easier traverse (v4 in my opinion!)

Percy B

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#4 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 08:36:38 am
The easy one is called The Walnut, and in my humble opinion is about V4ish although I could be wrong......
The harder one is called Walnut Whip and is V7. It was very overgraded in the last guide (at B9?) and as FBSF said before, the snapped hold don't make no difference to the difficulty!
The hardest one is The Choker, which starts on the same holds as Walnut Whip but drops down onto some slopey ledges and traverses down to the start holds of Little Richard (the up Problem on this block) before continuing around the arete at the same low level and rocking onto the slab - rather eliminate, but rather hard too. I gave it Font 8a (as a traverse grade thing) so I guess this might make it V10 in proper bouldering grades. We'll not know until somebody repeats it...... :wink:

dave

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#5 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 08:58:08 am
dunno why everyone says the walnit traverse is V4, in my opinion its one of the hardest B6s (as currently givin in the guide) around, sees loads of failures, certainly harder then say gorilla warfare, or even the short version of the green traverse. Excellent never the less.

Jim

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#6 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 09:38:30 am
I never seem to make it to baslow, always get stuck at curbar. Must be the draw of the trackside calling me, also having to pay in the top car park and being too lazy to walk up the hill.

Whilst were on about grades, trackside(b8) and sidetrack(b6), In my opinion should be graded the other way round. Both are awesome problems but I just think that sidetrack is so much harder and more condition dependant. Anyone else agree?

dave

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#7 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 09:45:24 am
sidetrack seems a weird problem, never done it, but also never really seen the point of it.

i agree trackside is easy though really.

Jim

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#8 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 09:50:30 am
its an excellent problem, don't let its weirdness put you off(needs a cold day tho)

dobbin

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#9 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 10:41:19 am
presumably Sidetrack is one of the sides of trackside? which one? whats the beta?

dave

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#10 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 10:47:23 am
its the side that isn't trackside!! i.e. trackside climbed on the right. one of those awkard hands on poor slopers, stodd on a massive ledge type things to start.

Jim

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#11 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 10:48:35 am
its the right side of the arete. Beta:
start standing on the ledge and long reach with left hand onto slopey arete, right on slopey shit hold on wall, rfoot on good hold back of cave, pull up, pinch hold near top of arete with rhand, swap feet and put right foot on a nubbin on the bottom right arete thing. Now rock onto rfoot and pull and grunt until you get the top

Enjoy     :P

Doylo

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#12 Walnut Whip Traverse - grade consensus?
September 08, 2003, 06:34:12 pm
I thought v8.

 

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