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Font 8b- how many UK climbers? (Read 75609 times)

Banana finger

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#125 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 02:00:55 pm
Me, Voigas.......No?  ;)

dobbin

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#126 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 02:11:40 pm
Voigas....8a+, yes?

Andy B

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#127 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 02:20:02 pm
Nice try Ben.

Andy Harris

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#128 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 04:24:36 pm
A point came where hubble was given Font 8b as this was about the limit at the time and Ben was operating at that level. Over the years some visiting dignatories have tried it (Timmy Fairfield,  Markus Bock, this strong Japanese guy) and basically all got shut down. markus has tried it a few times (I belive you can still see his tick Marks from space) and I believe didn't do all the moves on it. Given he climbs F9a+ and Font 8c there is some assumption that it is indeed harder than 8b. Ben was also able to lab all the boulders he could do but he found Hubble incredibly hard. It's an odd one though as it is quite unique and requires locking positions rather than conventional pulling. Maybe it is 8b but due to it's unique nature and lack of similar stuff to train on makes it feel harder. Similar to The Revelations pocket move that shut down pocket pulling beast like Fabian Christoph, Andy Hoffman etc.

We need to get Tyler on it to confirm or deny.

dave

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#129 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 04:29:19 pm
on the other hand didn't johnny-G used to warm up on hubble?

Jaspersharpe

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#130 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 04:32:47 pm
markus has tried it a few times (I belive you can still see his tick Marks from space) and I believe didn't do all the moves on it.

And yet he had the cheek to doubt Johnny G? This information makes me happy for a number of reasons. Interesting stuff indeed Andy.

on the other hand didn't johnny-G used to warm up on hubble?

I know at the time he repeated it Malc could lock the crux move back and forth in a pretty effortless fashion.

Moo

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#131 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 04:33:21 pm
oh bock and gaskins mentioned on the same page its all gonna go off again, :o take cover

a dense loner

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#132 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 05:16:33 pm
jesus, it's uncle's ascent of kheops that really impressed me

grimer

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#133 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 05:33:31 pm
Timmy Fairfield tried Hubble quite briefly, i think. His opionion of it was

"The holds are polished, the bolts are rusted, it leaks and it's covered in cobwebs. It's like something straight out of the fucking third world."

GCW

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#134 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 05:54:11 pm
a chap called Keith Bradbury

Yeah, just some guy. Don't think he's very well known.

Doylo

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#135 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 06:22:10 pm
on the other hand didn't johnny-G used to warm up on hubble?

Yeah but he was getting close to something two grades harder to the right!
I have a feeling Jeff Landman may have done Freshly Squeezed in Colorodo,V13-8b?? I'll ask Si. Its true 8a flash in uk is rare.

dave

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#136 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 06:55:41 pm
on the other hand didn't johnny-G used to warm up on hubble?

Yeah but he was getting close to something two grades harder to the right!

Exactly.

Doylo

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#137 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 06:59:42 pm
There's only one!

Don Jebus

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#138 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 08:03:56 pm
a chap called Keith Bradbury

Yeah, just some guy. Don't think he's very well known.

Sorry for not being as well informed as you having only started climbing a few months ago, I'll remember in future not to bother adding to anything else for fear of ridicule.  :(

GCW

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#139 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 08:11:18 pm
It was poking fun at Unc "media whore", not you.
You ain't been on here long enough to have the piss taken yet.   :P

Adam Lincoln

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#140 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 09:08:51 pm
Quote
Tell us the problems and we'll add him on.  That'll be 34 I guess.
I think it is a variation (ramp only) of a problem called Supernova, Magic Wood. Looks like an awesome line. Dunno consensus on it but given 8b somewhere.

Its called Nana Blanca, and its now thought to be 8a+. Its just Supernova exiting earlier.

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#141 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 06, 2008, 09:15:44 pm
Stick it in the 8a+/b list eh?

Doylo

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#142 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 01:42:12 am
Quote
Tell us the problems and we'll add him on.  That'll be 34 I guess.
I think it is a variation (ramp only) of a problem called Supernova, Magic Wood. Looks like an awesome line. Dunno consensus on it but given 8b somewhere.

Its called Nana Blanca, and its now thought to be 8a+. Its just Supernova exiting earlier.

I think Supernova ramp only is a different problem to this. This is a Caminati problem. I doubt Supernova ramp only is 8b tbh.

Doylo

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#143 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 01:51:20 am
If Schule des Lebens gets counted then surely Louis Armstrong is 8b, as confirmed by Tyler?

These two problems should never be mentioned in the same sentence on a difficulty thread. The day Louis Armstrong gets flashed i'll shag Dense  :shag:

Jaspersharpe

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#144 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 09:57:20 am
Timmy Fairfield tried Hubble quite briefly, i think. His opionion of it was

"The holds are polished, the bolts are rusted, it leaks and it's covered in cobwebs. It's like something straight out of the fucking third world."

Fucking philistine.

dave

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#145 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:02:41 am
how on earth can a route be pollished with less than half a dozen ascents? Clearly timmy hadn't been to stoney.

Jim

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#146 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:05:57 am
I didn't realise that louis armstrong has been flashed?

Kingy

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#147 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:26:23 am
Over the years some visiting dignatories have tried it (Timmy Fairfield,  Markus Bock, this strong Japanese guy) and basically all got shut down. markus has tried it a few times

I thought Hubble had a very reachy move at the start over the initial roof, which is not one of the crux moves, which I can imagine shutting down Marcus?  :-\. I think possibly the Tor is not Marcus's favourite venue. There is the story of him trying Evolution, struggling and having a massive paddy and shouting "Zis is not 8c, Zis is 9a!"

Re polish, I think Peak limestone polishes remarkably quickly. I heard Beluga is already suffering!!  :o

Jaspersharpe

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#148 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:34:08 am
It's a big move but not that big. Zippy said he knew he'd never do Hubble because he couldn't do that reach but then again, he's a dwarf. You're right Ted, Hubble was polished after one ascent but that doesn't detract. It's not just Peak Lime that polishes easily, nobody says all the routes at Buoux are shit because they're polished. I suggest Mr Fairfield was shut down as the easiest way to dismiss something you can't do is to say it's shit and you're not bothered. We've all been there.
 :off:

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#149 Re: Font 8b- how many UK climbers?
August 07, 2008, 10:35:55 am
Over the years some visiting dignatories have tried it (Timmy Fairfield,  Markus Bock, this strong Japanese guy) and basically all got shut down. markus has tried it a few times

I thought Hubble had a very reachy move at the start over the initial roof, which is not one of the crux moves, which I can imagine shutting down Marcus?  :-\. I think possibly the Tor is not Marcus's favourite venue. There is the story of him trying Evolution, struggling and having a massive paddy and shouting "Zis is not 8c, Zis is 9a!"

Re polish, I think Peak limestone polishes remarkably quickly. I heard Beluga is already suffering!!  :o

You would think Evolution would be right up Bocks street- crimpy power endurance! I think Steve Dunning said he got through all the hard climbing on Hubble on his second day but fell higher. He was living in Tideswell so was a regular at the tor.

 

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