[Shy Ted]

which piece of excrement stole 3 clips from the start of chimes?  what is the world coming to?  if you want to hand them into the climbing works anonymously you'd better do so sharpish cos they were each fitted with state of the art tracking devices... also, i know you've got a choad whoever nicked them, but are you f*cking idiots as well?  why not half-inch all of the bastard clips? you're going to hell... 

speaking of pieces of excrement, do people really have to excrete right beneath indecent??? can't you hold it in or venture a little further away? 

[Sloper]

As an inexperienced bastard I'd say it was a climber, perhaps one with lofty ethical standards who couldn't believe that one would have to work such a trade route?


















Of course I have never been on the route, never will and think that stealing gear is a disgrace, despite all of that can I suggest down grading it to HVS 6c?

[Paul B]

Sorry to hear you've had gear stolen... How long were the clips left in for?

[Kingy]

What a lowlife scumbag . if its any consolation Paul i have had numerous odd QDs robbed over the years. In Terradets some bastard nicked the first one on a 7c I left them in overnight. Plus I've had odd ones at the Tor go missing. I know some off Make it Funky were pilfered last year 

[whispering nic]

I thought from the thread title that you were reffering to the crag in general.

[Steve R]

some bastard nicked the first one on a 7c I left them in overnight.

same thing happened to me last year, except I'd taken the 1st draw out but some bastard nicked the draw off 2nd bolt, which you'd definitely have wanted (needed?) a rope on to get to and back down 'cos it was quite high and hard.  I just don't get this mentality that pinches one or two.  If you're twat enough to nick one, why not take 'em all?!

Good luck getting your clips back.

[north_country_boy]

I had alternate quickdraws stolen from a route at Orpierre last summer, they left the 1st, 3rd, 5th etc.....plus the 1st draw had a DMM rollerbiner on it! I was not happy!!!   

[Kingy]

I had alternate quickdraws stolen from a route at Orpierre last summer, they left the 1st, 3rd, 5th etc.....plus the 1st draw had a DMM rollerbiner on it! I was not happy!!!   

Bummer hey. I saw some dude in Ceuse 2 years ago ranting about a whole rack of rollerbiner draws nicked off an 8c (I think it was le Cadre?) he was working the day after they were put in. Must have been the feral Poles who live up there and survive off scraps...they'll nick anything. Stash those ropes and draws well homies!

I know Eric Scully was pissed in Terradets last year when 10 pristine new BD draws were nicked off the 7b on the LHS (jam session?) when he left them in for about a week for his girlfriend, although I reckon he was asking for trouble on this one. Never fear, he had BD ship off 15 new ones for him free of charge, sponsored hero that he was.

[north_country_boy]

Yeah Eric actually got some draws from our own British BD Sponsored hero Chris Cubitt, and got BD to send Chris a full set of new draws a month later. What a nice bloke!

[dave]

Now at the risk of meeting with serious consternation I'll play Devil's Avacado and suggest that people shouldn't be leaving quickdraws in routes, especially at the Tor.

Now of course I'm sorry to hear that some people have lost gear, and naturally hope it finds it way back to you. And afterall even if you did leave gear if someone took it knowing it was yours then thats still theft. I don't know the specifics of this case, how long it was left in etc.

However, my opinion than we shouldn't be leaving gear in routes, especially at very public and visible crags like the Tor. I will accept that a worrying precedent has been set by the set of draws with maillons in Mecca Extension than must have been there for about 4 years now, but all the same my point stands. Someone also left clips in Sardine for a peroid last summer too. If people out there think that draws left in are invisible and not doing any harm then think again - walkers and non-climbers can see them, I had one guy accost me as I was leaving the crag wanting to know why people were leaving gear on routes (mecca in that case). Plus don't forget if anyone else wants to do the route when your gear in in maybe they don't want to lead it on your gear - they don't know its history etc, so your clips are in the way. in the case of mecca i'd not be psyched taking lobs on gear that had been left to the elements for years (didn't someone say one of the gates was dodgy on mecca anyway?) In this day and age of having clipsticks is there really an excuse for leaving routes equipped? by sport standards even routes like chimes to the 8a+ belay are not long or difficult to equip.

I'll probably be shot down in flames here but i think this issue needs considering.

[north_country_boy]

I agree with all your points in principal, but I can see why draws are left in routes, espeically at the Tor. The majority of people who are trying things like Mecca get out in an evening/morning sessions, where just putting the gear in can be a major waste of energy in a relatively short session, so would prefer to be able to turn up - warm up - redpoint, and epeat the later till they go home......

And yeah the draws on Mecca look dodgy, could maybe do with changing them before the winter, however, would be good to put mambas or similar on it to prevent people nicking them....

[shark]

Shouldnt this be on the 'Shootin the shit' forum ?

Quickdraws are as cheap as chips these days and seem to be getting left everywhere.

Roy if you are looking Buz left one of your draws in the Directissima (sp.?) which I have collected having repatriated Bruno Mark's draws that day.

[Kingy]

Yeah Eric actually got some draws from our own British BD Sponsored hero Chris Cubitt, and got BD to send Chris a full set of new draws a month later. What a nice bloke!

Yes I was sat next to him at the time!! 

[Norton Sharley]

Now at the risk of meeting with serious consternation I'll play Devil's Avacado and suggest that people shouldn't be leaving quickdraws in routes, especially at the Tor.

Now of course I'm sorry to hear that some people have lost gear, and naturally hope it finds it way back to you. And afterall even if you did leave gear if someone took it knowing it was yours then thats still theft. I don't know the specifics of this case, how long it was left in etc.

However, my opinion than we shouldn't be leaving gear in routes, especially at very public and visible crags like the Tor. I will accept that a worrying precedent has been set by the set of draws with maillons in Mecca Extension than must have been there for about 4 years now, but all the same my point stands. Someone also left clips in Sardine for a peroid last summer too. If people out there think that draws left in are invisible and not doing any harm then think again - walkers and non-climbers can see them, I had one guy accost me as I was leaving the crag wanting to know why people were leaving gear on routes (mecca in that case). Plus don't forget if anyone else wants to do the route when your gear in in maybe they don't want to lead it on your gear - they don't know its history etc, so your clips are in the way. in the case of mecca i'd not be psyched taking lobs on gear that had been left to the elements for years (didn't someone say one of the gates was dodgy on mecca anyway?) In this day and age of having clipsticks is there really an excuse for leaving routes equipped? by sport standards even routes like chimes to the 8a+ belay are not long or difficult to equip.

I'll probably be shot down in flames here but i think this issue needs considering.

 

Do you leave your bags at the crag until the next time you turn up?  Er, no.

[neil h]

Do you leave your bags at the crag until the next time you turn up?  Er, no.



Sometimes yes


I remember years ago, leaving bolts bags and drills up the cornice for weeks on end.................


On the same token, myself and mr cubitt left a draw at the top of zenzero at portland, you can actually reach over the top and get it, and its still there after 8 years. But on the same subject I left two quick draws at the top of hurricain on a milpond at the cuttings cause i was working it, some bastard stuck a stake in at the top of the crag and abbed in to knick them, cause they couldnt dog the route...................


At a well known crag on an island near spain they actually leave the quick draws in the hard routes all the time, to save anyone clipping up and no one would dare knick them or the spanish maffia would be on the case.

[Paul B]

However, my opinion than we shouldn't be leaving gear in routes...

I have to agree with Dave on this, even if it is a faff and you've only got a short amount of time.

Plus don't forget if anyone else wants to do the route when your gear in in maybe they don't want to lead it on your gear - they don't know its history etc, so your clips are in the way.

I had a problem today with an in-situ draw where the gate didn't close properly when I clipped it which ruined a decent redpoint attempt, OK so its not that big a deal but its a bit frustrating.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

Surely climbing/aiding up your project to put the clips in is the best way of warming up anyway? The excuse of not having much time is just covering up the "I can't be bothered to strip it" mentality. Stop being lazy imo.

[Bonjoy]

I hope we're allowing Mandella to stay the exception to this rule!

[cofe]

i think that now he's passed 90, nelson can leave his clips in whichever routes he pleases.

[SA Chris]

I heard he was going through a bouldering phase anyway.

[Pantontino]

  I've left my quickdraws in my project on the Ormes. I normally try it in the evening after work when I'm short of time. Putting the draws in from the ground up would only be a bit more of an arse than leaving them in, but stripping them at the end of the evening would be a major pain. It is so steep/zig-zaggy that the best way to strip it would be to top rope it, but if you fell off you probably wouldn't be able to get back on. At that point in the night my belayer is thinking about the pub (and so am I).

Leaving the draws in saves me time and hassle (and stops my rope getting knackered), but it also lets people know that it is still a project (i.e. hands off you thieving bastards, I sweated blood cleaning and bolting this thing so it's mine until I say otherwise!!!).

[dave]

the only thing that says "this is still a project" is removing the hanger off the first bolt, or tieing an old saucepan to it. leaving the clips says many things, but not that its a project.

[Bonjoy]

With the draws in I'd be worried about passing McClures spotting my otherwise unobvious project and having a pop at the flash. Taking the first two clips out and putting finger tape over the hole in the first hanger would probably warn off all but the most unscrupulous.

[Pantontino]

I'm well aware of that so I've taken the hangers off the first 2 bolts as well (you can climb back to the deck from the 3rd bolt).

[Bonjoy]

Very shrewd