[account_inactive]

Let's see what the oracle, the elder statesman of tenacity has to say. By the way, all aspirant peak sport baggers should know this article inside out. http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue08/uk8a+/peak02.htm

Salar is in as 8a+ is that right?  I thought 8a

TENACITY!

[dave]

Salar used to be given 8a+ before anyone had repeated it i think.

You can claim a poor 8a or keep going and do an amazing 8a+. go figure.

If you want a short roofy 8a instead of a stamina 8a+ then theres nowt up with it.

[travs]

I made the 2nd ascent of Salar and thought at the time that 8a+ was fair. However, it is a full on dyno and as I'm only 5'7" I was completely tits out on it so I suspect it is one of those that is really hard to grade.

[Somebody's Fool]

It's gota be a cop out cos i don't see no chains. and it's just getting good. You can claim a poor 8a or keep going and do an amazing 8a+. go figure.

This isn't my opinion, it's that of Shy Yorkshireman, before I (he) offend(s) anyone else.

[Paul B]

I made the 2nd ascent of Salar and thought at the time that 8a+ was fair. However, it is a full on dyno and as I'm only 5'7" I was completely tits out on it so I suspect it is one of those that is really hard to grade.

It doesn't have to be dyno'd anymore.

[Johnny Brown]

'Anymore', what do you mean, 'anymore'? Did you chip it, or has a new hold appeared? Or is it just staticable by those with low BMIs?

[Paul B]

cabbage soup diet for a month and hey presto, gas powered levitation...

if you're after a serious answer:
turn your right hand to an undercut, step up high, back-foot with your LF and voila.

[pig]

I made the 2nd ascent of Salar and thought at the time that 8a+ was fair. However, it is a full on dyno and as I'm only 5'7" I was completely tits out on it so I suspect it is one of those that is really hard to grade.

The reason people think Salar to be 7c+/8a is because they are not climbing it by the origanal method. A bit like Renegade Master. Originally they were climbed direct. Perhaps the first assentionists were wearing blinkers.

[Bonjoy]

 I got the impression (I'm not sure where from), that Malc Taylor climbed it the more direct static way (as per Paul B).

[Paul B]

I'm likely wrong here but I think it may have been done originally using a sloping edge just up from where the bolt is placed instead of tending left then up. I think Kristian may of tried it this way but don't quote me on that. I do remember talking to somebody about it after spotting said slopey edge and have a bit of a play.

[dave]

yeah i have recollection of mention of said slopey edge - i would assume you get pocket with left hand, go up right for slopey thing then slap like a mofo to the break. I won't be queuing up to try this beta.

[JC]

Full Chimes is reckoned to be bang in the middle of the 8a+ grade so perhaps the extra top moves of waddage would bump it up into the 8b bracket, who knows  As regards the rest situation, I know of one ascentionist who rested at the Chimes belay but probably it doesn't make any difference to the overall grade whether you carry straight on or not.

I think that deviating to the Chimes belay flake would affect the overall grade. As Shy Ted said it is better and more logical to carry on straight up. There is a tough move to get the break right at the top of a long sequence of climbing, which feels hard when your pumped and is probably a lot easier after a good shake at the Chimes belay!

The moves on the top bulge are amazing and well worth doing!

Short vid below

[Kingy]

Great vid Jon! Looks excellent going over that top roof, I look forward to trying it!

Bonus points to Keith on his ascent, it was raining so he couldn't top out. His climbing partners below made him do 10 pullups on the final jugs before they gave it to him 

[cowboyhat]

It doesn't look like much more climbing.

I'd like to do it just to top out...

[JC]

It doesn't look like much more climbing.

I'd like to do it just to top out...

Its not but there's the added fear of messing the top bulge up and having to do all that again!       

[dr crimp]

effort jc.a :beer2:cheers moment