[jfw]

Went on The chimes extension today by accident. It climbs really well but does anyone know what the grade is nowadays? 8b+ seems a bit high? Or was i on the wrong route?

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Sorry posting under wrong log in. Any ideas?

[Paul B]

8a+?

[dave]

if chimes normal is 8a+ then shurley this aught to be >= 8b, just by the math of it.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

I thought as much, but two extra hard 6b moves and no extra moneys don't see the point! how did the big man get it so wrong? 8b+? a really good finish though.

[Paul B]

ignore my previous post I was being a half wit, and don't call me Shirley. 

[n_man]

I thought that it used to have a really hard static move on an undercut, but now people dyno to the better hold?

[Ru]

I thought as much, but two extra hard 6b moves and no extra moneys don't see the point! how did the big man get it so wrong? 8b+? a really good finish though.

This was Zippy's project and he had a hard way of doing the top. At this point, no-one knew what grade it would be and 8b+ was guessed at. I think Steve then either flashed the FA or did it in 2 goes and said something along the lines of "that was fun". The line was then named by Zippy and written up by Rockfax.

So somehow it got labeled as 8b+. In fact it's 8a+ as there's virtually a hands off rest between the two halves. I suppose you could say its 8a+/b just to give some credit for being bothered to go to the top.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Cheers Ru always seems harsh when you do extra hard climbing but still get the same grade. A bit like when they extended all them things on cascade. Still guess it don't make it 8b. Or does it? Has this had many accents? I'm guessing that as most people can't even be bothered to go to the normal belay. That this won't have had many takers?

[Kingy]

Stone did it 2 years ago but did not comment on the grade. Chris Cubitt has done it as well I think. Unfortunately, there is a hands off rest at the Chimes belay as well as one higher up at the break. I guess if u were being a purist u could eschew all thoughts of deviating to the Chimes belay and forge on up the wall as it is the direct line, which would be pumpier and a better route, but most would welcome shuffling off leftwards.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Cheers. That is the way it climbs really, i never went to chimes belay just kept on chugging up the wall, There is another hard move to slap for the break, well it's easy but really hard when your pumped, so it does feel harder but wether it makes it a grade harder i don't know. Time will tell.

[Ru]

I think most people don't go to the chime belay as the holds lead you straight up. But there is a very good rest at the break.

[Shy Ted]

it is more logical and better to continue straight up than go to chimes belay

[Adam Lincoln]

Smitton just did it and called it 8b....?

[Shy Ted]

yes, i thought how could ten extra metres of fall-offable climbing not warrant an increase in grade?  i don't know though, most people reckon it's only 8a+ but i know at least one person who agrees with me.  it is very very soft mind...as i said, more psychological than anything (i.e. you could easily 'excite' yourself off the top section).  needs a few more repeats methinks 

[Kingy]

Full Chimes is reckoned to be bang in the middle of the 8a+ grade so perhaps the extra top moves of waddage would bump it up into the 8b bracket, who knows  As regards the rest situation, I know of one ascentionist who rested at the Chimes belay but probably it doesn't make any difference to the overall grade whether you carry straight on or not. I always think if a rest if there then use it. Look at McClure on Northern Lights, he made a beeline for the resting jug to the left of the line of the bolts.

[Bonjoy]

Hmmm, I'm not sure about Chimes being benchmark 8a+. I can't think of many (any) easier 8a+s in the peak really.
I'm not disputing the Waddage grade though, I've never been on it.

[Kingy]

Er yes...maybe you're right, all the easier 8a+'s would be in Yorkshire then    #runs for cover#. Actually, according to my 92 Rockfax graded list The Albatrocity and Lets Get Physical are listed as easier than Full Chimes although maybe hold snappage has altered them since then...

[Bonjoy]

Albatrocity is a lot harder than Chimes. Have never tried LGP, it seems a bit of an eliminate

[dave]

I've been on LGP but not with the direct "8a+" start - it looks like maybe one hard move into a short 7c, though this could turn out to only be 7b+ with good beta. Hopefully we'll get back on it this summer and have a better idea. I think Rupert has done it though.

[Bonjoy]

Let's see what the oracle, the elder statesman of tenacity has to say. By the way, all aspirant peak sport baggers should know this article inside out. http://www.cragx.com/articles/issue08/uk8a+/peak02.htm

Chimes -

Pollit's 'ground-up' opus, re-climbed by Moon after demise of block at start. Many's first 8a+

Albatrossity direct (nobody does it the original indirect way) -

90's classic - one of the best just got better. Brick hard for the grade; unflashable

Let's Get Physical -

Early 8a+ but stay off 'big' holds on the right at the start or else claim 7c only

And interestingly regarding Entree which is in at 8a+

Crimpy Gore; up from 8a and well worthy of respect

...that's good enough for me.

[Paul B]

Nice post Bonjoy, some of the descriptions are spot on!

[abarro81]

What's 'mini-chimes' considered? Soft 8a+ or just hard 8a? Or just a cop out?

[Doylo]

What's 'mini-chimes' considered? Soft 8a+ or just hard 8a? Or just a cop out?

Standard 8a.

[Somebody's Fool]

It's gota be a cop out cos i don't see no chains. and it's just getting good. You can claim a poor 8a or keep going and do an amazing 8a+. go figure.