[Bonjoy]

Random list queries
1.   Anyone done Mock Beggar’s Wall - RHS? Font grade? Quality?
2.   On the boulder nearest Crattcliffe Middle but on Robin Hoods Stride (same boulder as Slap Bass Odysey). Short slab/wall just right of a classic rounded arête. Given 7a in Ru’s guide. I assume at this grade is for righthand variant of this line. I’m pretty sure it has been done more direct (maybe by Uptowngirl). Can anyone confirm? Grade?
3.   The old PBG described a footless variation on T-crack. Anyone know of this being done, where it starts, grade?
4.   Anyone know anything about a problem (groove?) near Scaramanga at Eagle Tor called Shamon? Grade, 7a+?? And for that matter has Scaramanga been done recently (since loosing a nipple), grade?
5.   Shroom – Eagle tor 7a+. Does this really go through the roof past a pocket at only 7a+? Confirm? Grade?
6.   Right of Golden Path and left of Punklet at Stanage. I have a problem down as Thumbing Your Father 7a+. Can anyone confirm it’s existence and grade?
7.   Not far left of Help the Young at Stanage the BMC guide lists the starts of two routes as highballs – Star Trek and Klingon. Can anyone confirm these have been highballed? Grade? Quality? Are they very scary?
8.   Ron’s Prob – Buckstone – Anyone done it? Grade?

[Fiend]

6. Sloper might have done that one?

[grimer]

I have bouldered up to the break (gear placements) on Star Trek and got flash pumped there a couple of times and not managed to press on. I have seen it led on this day, and know it has been soloed. From the break, i jumped off onto a single mat. I tried Klingon like this too but didn't get very far, but i know it's been done like this too. It's supposed to be desperate.

[fatdoc]

Answer to 3.

Neil Bentley

[Percy B]

4.  Scaramanger was still possible after loss of one of the little pebble/chicken head things cos we did it last time i was up there. Howver, I haven't been up since the place was banned.... Shamon is to the right of Scaramanger and is a sitter on an undercut flake thing to a selection of slopey things. Small, but fun if you like that sort of thing. This is probably well covered in moss again by now.

[james]

Have done 3, Started on undercut pockets in roof.  not great, no point (except to eliminate left hand block)

[Jim]

I think 3 is a footless start to t-crack to eliminate the block at the back where you start on for the original. Start on the pockets under the roof and campus out to the bottom of the t-crack, toe hook in, finish as normal

I think scaramanga needs its name downgrading now

I've only ever heard of dobbin trying rons problem at buckstone because he thought it would be easier than the dyno 

[andy popp]

I did the 2nd ascent of Star Trek and first without a siderunner. I just had a belayer to stop me tumbling all the way past the starting ledge (there's no runners till its over really). It felt like a route but this was in that era now officially known as 'back in the day' and thus pre-mat etc. Not very high but the landing ledge seemed quite narrow. V. good, bit reachy.

[uptown]

2.   On the boulder nearest Crattcliffe Middle but on Robin Hoods Stride (same boulder as Slap Bass Odysey). Short slab/wall just right of a classic rounded arête. Given 7a in Ru’s guide. I assume at this grade is for righthand variant of this line. I’m pretty sure it has been done more direct (maybe by Uptowngirl). Can anyone confirm? Grade?

yep, harder than 7a and b8, it took a lot of 'knack' but I'm notoriously crap at grading so wouldn't like to guess - the righthand way is also good, and probably is 7a or b8.

[butters]

6.   Right of Golden Path and left of Punklet at Stanage. I have a problem down as Thumbing Your Father 7a+. Can anyone confirm it’s existence and grade?

I have been there when Sloper has been working this so I can confirm that it exists. Gradewise I have no idea but I couldn't touch it but that just reinforces the fact that I am total punter.

bluebrad

[Bonjoy]

Cheers all.
1.
2. UTG, I have it down as 7b+ for the direct at the mo, but that's pure guesswork. You have any better suggestion?
3. James, Fatdoc, did these ascents just footless the start or footless the whole problem untill hands on top?? At what point were feet engaged? Is 7c an appropriate grade?
4. Nice one.
5.
6. It sound's like it's sub seven in that thread. Not sure where the 7a+ came from (Nige I think). 
7. Andy, Grimer. Good stuff. Will have a go at these (the start bits that is) next time i'm up there.
8.

[webbo]

re 3.i remember watching mick adams doing this and he reckoned you started using your feet when you reached the slopey break(the one with the chipped hold on the left hand side)

[dave]

yo loveboy, have you got that direct start to mint 400 on your list? the one starting off the tiny think break through to oedopus traverse? used to get B7, seems a bit of a bogey problem, platantly much harder. never seen it done.

[Scouse D]

Did a 'new' problem yesterday with the cofe. At froggatt, Left of the Oedipus direct start straight up the faint rib to high jugs on oedipus. Worthy of 7a just, maybe. Good climbing.

[Jim]

I think the whole point of the footless bit was to eliminate the block back and left. Get your feet on asap (ie toe hooks in the pockets) but not using the block at the back

[Sloper]

Yes, Thumbing your father exists and is actually rather good, I'd say it was a very highball font 6b, i.e. no top out no tick and maybe worth E2?

But then again I can't grade flour so you'll have to get someone else on .

[Bonjoy]

Mint 400 Direct is in at 7b+ (same as Ru's book I think). I don't know anyone who's done it either
Scouse, that line is recorded in the old purple and green bouldering book (or maybe the rockfax guide, one of the two anyway). Can't remember what it gets in there. Will add

[grimer]

Re: Star Trek. Now i remember, there was a tied-down spotter. Said spotter had done the route previously, and was also the person who did Klingon ground-up. Said spotter, on the day he did it, the week before i was there, had tied himself down to spot someone else, as there is a narrow ledge, but a long and nasty drop beyond this. He placed a cam behind a large flake at the foot of the climb, leaned over the edge, and the flake opened like a door and the cam popped, sending said spotter on a long and painful drop onto the boulders below.

[Bonjoy]

  Tied off spotters, narrow ledge landings. Sounding less like a boulder problem.

[monkey boy]

I did mint 400 a little while ago, thought about 7b/+ if what i did is right?! Think woz has done it as well but i could just be imagining that in my little head!

[cofe]

Scouse, that line is recorded in the old purple and green bouldering book (or maybe the rockfax guide, one of the two anyway). Can't remember what it gets in there. Will add

i think you should call it 'Glamourpuss, bling your mutha'

[grimer]

Yeah, ST probably not a boulder problem. In the guide i put in the V6 bit just to point out that the route is basically a font 7a above a ledge which is okay to fall off onto, then an easier top out. It was more just a way of giving info on the route.

[Andy B]

yo loveboy, have you got that direct start to mint 400 on your list? the one starting off the tiny think break through to oedopus traverse? used to get B7, seems a bit of a bogey problem, platantly much harder. never seen it done.

I've done this too, when there with Kim, Rob Dunnet and Seb Grieve. (the day you burnt off Seb, Kim, cos he couldn't get his fingers in the slots on Oedipus Traverse!)

[dave]

Scouse, that line is recorded in the old purple and green bouldering book (or maybe the rockfax guide, one of the two anyway). Can't remember what it gets in there. Will add

i think you should call it 'Glamourpuss, bling your mutha'

...fucker..

for reference this is in the rockfax at B5 or 6.

[andy popp]

Like I said, ST doesn't fit most people's definition of bouldering. Just to the left might 'Too Cold to be Bold' (currently E2 6b with a siderunner) be highballable?