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esoteric forest classics (Read 13352 times)

Duma

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#25 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 12:05:37 am
Thinking of Force du Destin as a possibility for DG's next tick reminded me of this - at a slightly more achievable grade: Fil de Verre, have had an unsuccesful play and it's great. There's a nice 7A just up the hill too: La Linea
« Last Edit: March 28, 2008, 12:30:05 am by Duma, Reason: spelling »

Duma

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#26 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 12:19:46 am
SA Chris : go to Rocher de la Reine, La Fissure du Soleil is great, and fair at 6C, and Le Couguar Blanc is a fine 6C+ (and both get you ticks in 7+8). Also Plumes au Vent is a great 6B arete, better than the sit down I thought.
Just looking at bleau.info this looks like an awesome venue for 6's, though it certainly doesn't count as esoteric for the locals!

SA Chris

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#27 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 08:50:25 am
Cheers Duma, those look ace. I usually only go to font for a few days, so generally don't stray from the straigh and narrow, and generally end up (more or less) just following circuits. However we have a full 7 days this trip, so keen to do some exploring. Am borrowing the purple guide and will buy Off Piste before we go, are those problems in these guides too?

nash1

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#28 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 02:20:50 pm
This is also an absolute beauty... http://bleau.info/petitereine/1696.html . It is pictured in a lot of guides, but I would still say it is esoterica and certainly off the beaten track. There is a new 7b+ just behind it as well which looks stunning. High prow.

Over the hill at Rocher de la Reine (since it was mentioned), this is a very nice 6c ... http://bleau.info/reine/9236.html

Andy B

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#29 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 04:38:51 pm
Thinking of Force du Destin as a possibility for DG's next tick reminded me of this - at a slightly more achievable grade: Fil de Verre, have had an unsuccesful play and it's great. There's a nice 7A just up the hill too: La Linea

Le Toit at Ermitage is quite a nice problem, although quite stiff for 7a+

http://bleau.info/ermitage/1315.html

We missed La Linea but it looks good in the photos. Fil de Verre looks desperate.

Resonate

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#30 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 08:49:21 pm
Have to recommend at 95.2:

Rudeboy: http://bleau.info/95.2/2126.html
Retour aux Sources: http://bleau.info/95.2/5.html

both 7A

note: i dunno what 'esoteric' means

Duma

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#31 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 09:14:47 pm
Nice one Resonate - reminded me of Sans Dessus Dessous on the same bloc - you tried this? looked awesome, but wet when we were there.

esoteric...
Rudeboy counts, but maybe not Retour Aux Sources, its pretty well known. Not that that diminishes its quality mind, but if I go somewhere midweek and find another group on a problem, it probably don't count.

The Sausage

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#32 Re: esoteric forest classics
March 28, 2008, 09:32:54 pm
Sans Dessus Dessous is brilliant. It's described in the 7s & 8s as 'low start, finish with arete'. It seemed to make much more sense to do a proper sit start using the left arete. I remember using a wierd right foot cam in the underclings on the right - felt totally unlikely until it worked. Anyway, I never linked the whole thing, but thought it was great. Really burly.

Jim

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#33 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 05, 2008, 02:12:36 pm
Did a couple of really good ones off the beaten track last week. Will link to them when bleau.info is working again

J.P

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#34 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 06, 2008, 07:18:13 am
Not very esoteric, but a bit off the beaten track. A right little gem:
http://bleau.info/gros/634.html
Havenīt done this but looks nice too:
http://bleau.info/gros/1160.html
 

Percy B

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#35 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 06, 2008, 11:36:32 am
Good recomendations, JP. Have done both, and they are both good. The grand arete is pretty steady for 7a I thought, but pretty high with a thought provoking top out. There are a few other good 7a's in the same area, as well as La Liberte - the best 6b in the forest. Worth the trek - Gros Sablons is probably a 10 minute walk further on from 95.2....the font equivalent of an alpine approach!

Jim

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#36 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 06, 2008, 12:34:56 pm
Is it just me that can't get on bleau.info?

J.P

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#37 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 06, 2008, 06:26:18 pm
Must bee, it works fine here (Safari and Firefox).

Jim

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#38 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 08, 2008, 04:42:25 pm
http://bleau.info/demoiselles/12546.html

Is excellent, we went up with the left hand, the other problems there didn't look up to much but we didn't look at them all


Jim

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#39 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 08, 2008, 06:03:50 pm
http://bleau.info/auvergne/12431.html

This looked really good, didn't try it tho. I see scouse has done it, worth doing?

cofe

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#40 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 08, 2008, 10:50:08 pm
http://bleau.info/auvergne/12431.html

This looked really good, didn't try it tho. I see scouse has done it, worth doing?

compression ministerielle at coquibus auvergne. a full body pump and not too far from the car and main trois pignons areas. rest of the area not great but this is well worth it.

i wasn't kidding the first time i posted it word ::)

Jim

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#41 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 06:32:11 am
Sorry, I'll take out my eye plugs next time.
Who pumped your body?

Jaspersharpe

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#42 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 07:16:59 am
http://bleau.info/demoiselles/12546.html

Is excellent, we went up with the left hand, the other problems there didn't look up to much but we didn't look at them all



Is that not........

http://bleau.info/demoiselles/9804-27323.html

?


neil h

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#43 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 08:42:27 am
Found this little esoteric gem yesturday


[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/U5fkJnVFNso&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/U5fkJnVFNso&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>[/youtube]


up on the way to salamander

Bonjoy

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#44 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 09:20:42 am
8b in the forest but still topping out with knees. The youth of today...

Monolith

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#45 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 10:16:43 am
For someone who doesn't like dyno's, I'm impressed.

neil h

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#46 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 12:20:45 pm
For someone who doesn't like dyno's, I'm impressed.


check this out, quite esoteric, Its of the beaten track near sabot, we also did this awsome 7c to the right of this one that involves a wild slap of a small crimp with a big fall if you miss

[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/21T2JkFsRpQ&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/21T2JkFsRpQ&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>[/youtube]

cowboyhat

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#47 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 12:21:03 pm
8b in the forest but still topping out with knees. The youth of today...

That's his signature move.

Monolith

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#48 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 12:28:12 pm
Nice Neil, just a shame I'm not in the least dynamic otherwise I'd hunt that mofo right down.

Somebody's Fool

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#49 Re: esoteric forest classics
April 09, 2008, 12:30:11 pm
http://bleau.info/demoiselles/12546.html

Is excellent, we went up with the left hand, the other problems there didn't look up to much but we didn't look at them all



Is that not........

http://bleau.info/demoiselles/9804-27323.html

?



Time for the Tipp-Ex methinks Jim.  You can borrow mine when I've finished with it.

 

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