[Duma]

Thread inspired by this:

Bon Pied, best 7a I've done in years, tucked away in an area you might not bother visiting. There's a nice 7a+ in the cave in the bottom right of the photo as well, and what looks like a truly awesome 7b prow Les Meteoresabout 50 yards away, though we didn't try that so can't make any definitive recommendations.

So, hit me with ace stuff I don't know about, and further delay the day I'll be forced to return to Cuvier!

[cofe]

compression ministerielle at coquibus auvergne. a full body pump and not too far from the car and main trois pignons areas. rest of the area not great but this is well worth it.

[Jim]

They both look tres bon.
Off the top of my head Orgasme Cosmique is very good and slightly off the beaten track.
Does exactly what it says on the tin, it will blow your mind.

Not so esoteric but this problem is excellent http://bleau.info/plaines/1643.html

[neil h]

what looks like a truly awesome 7b prow Les Meteoresabout 50 yards away, though we didn't try that so can't make any definitive recommendations.

prow is not that grand, Its just a bit scary

link here to orgasmic video, go do it on your own with no spotters for the true tick, i got the name wrong in the video, I did it alone then went back to show some friends


Also you should go try this http://bleau.info/montrouget/9521.html this is the most awsome boulder ever, and the best problem you will try in the forest, 15 mins from the car completly on its own deep in boar nation

[Duma]

neil - you are clearly the man to ask in this field! Where did you start Meteores? Didn't seem that obvious to me.
Been meaning to go back to Mare a Piat for ages, had a wander years ago on a rest day but have never got round to returning. I'll put it on the list for next trip along with Rocher du Cassepot.
Rocher Fin - not really esoteric, but far enough from the parking you won't see (m)any brits - class spot with lots of great easier stuff. Memoire d'Autre Tombe is my pick of the tougher ticks, it's just a shame I'm running short of stuff to do there.
Memoire:

[Jim]

Also you should go try this http://bleau.info/montrouget/9521.html this is the most awsome boulder ever, and the best problem you will try in the forest, 15 mins from the car completly on its own deep in boar nation

That looks amazing, Somebody's fool is going to be all over this no doubt unless of course it is very reach dependant (which it looks like)

[neil h]

neil - you are clearly the man to ask in this field! Where did you start Meteores? Didn't seem that obvious to me.

of the top of my head, i remember just taking hold right hand, left hand undercut then straight up to the rail, You start pretty much next to the big boulder you will fall on if you fluff it up, It was so dirty and scary, you slink of right to top out

hope this helps

[Somebody's Fool]

Dense won't stop banging on about how good this looked:

http://bleau.info/montmorillon/13332.html

Shall we put this on the list as well Jim?

[Duma]

Cheers neil, will go back and check it out. Didn't appear dirty when we were there, must have seen some traffic since your ascent.

SF, that looks ace, just the sort of thing I'm after - had never even heard of the area.

Never seen this, but is my favourite new photo in 7+8: Katioushka
Anyone been? Is it as good as the photo makes out?

[a dense loner]

it's on the list already fool. now take some lemsip and get an early night

[neil h]

Memoire d'Autre Tombe is my pick of the tougher ticks,

I found this real easy for the grade, you should try the harder version without the arete. Another good line up there dunno if you done it I keep falling of the mantle top out which is about 5a is el kift http://bleau.info/fin/9523.html amazing line i think

You guys should also check out 11.1 new lines going all the time up there and you never see a soul just to the right of rocher fin, well a bit to the right

[Duma]

Did Chevalier Errant last year - harder, but not as good I thought. 7a+ seemed fair to me, as long as you finish on the right side of the arete.
Didn't try El Kift, but has perhaps the most comfortable looking crimp in font on it! The very low start put me off a bit. Enjoyed failing on No Name Yet too.

[Duma]

neil - any more at 111 than the topo on bleau.info? Looks like the stuff on there was done pre 2006

[SA Chris]

Any sub 7 esoteric classics worth seeking out?

[neil h]

Did Chevalier Errant last year - harder, but not as good I thought. 7a+ seemed fair to me, as long as you finish on the right side of the arete.
Didn't try El Kift, but has perhaps the most comfortable looking crimp in font on it! The very low start put me off a bit. Enjoyed failing on No Name Yet too.

The ow start is fine, just get a heal toe on the right, I match the crimp then go direct to top of it rather than going to undercut first..


Regarding 11.1 I was chating to Jo the other day who has put up a load of stuff round there, I will try find some info

[Andy B]

Rocher Fin - not really esoteric, but far enough from the parking you won't see (m)any brits - class spot with lots of great easier stuff. Memoire d'Autre Tombe is my pick of the tougher ticks, it's just a shame I'm running short of stuff to do there.
Memoire:

I really liked this problem at Rocher Fin. It's uninspiringly called NoNameYet. I think it's been downgraded in the new 7's and 8's guide.





http://bleau.info/fin/9428.html

[Andy B]

Enjoyed failing on No Name Yet too.

Sorry. Missed this post.

[monkey boy]

Andy that top pic needs to go in the gurn faces to! Typical you!! 

[dave]

that gives me an idea.....

[sharkey]

Sub 7a this is an absolute beauty  http://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html

[SA Chris]

That looks sweet and right up my street. Ta.

[Duma]

Indeed. But hardly esoteric now is it?

[Houdini]

This is ace

http://bleau.info/greau/888-23381.html

[joel]

Megalithe does indeed look amazing - again maybe not that esoteric though?

Off to Font in a week and was going to try Les Conquistadores direct (the wall just left of Megalithe)

http://bleau.info/greau/885.html

Description says without left arete  - the guy in the video seems to use it for the last couple of moves? - anyone know if this is OK or not? (or am I splitting hairs because it's very very close to the top of the boulder...)

Also this has probably been mentioned in another thread on Font but it looks amazing too

http://bleau.info/avon/1114.html

cheers everyone for the info on this and other threads -  I've been quietly lurking and adding problems to an increasing ticklist that now has so many problems that spending a year in Font would never see them ticked.....

[Jim]

That cartoon problem next to it looks top drawer