[cofe]

anyone have any particular opinions on problems or grades etc?

i'll kick it off: play hard doesn't use the crack. at all.

[Dr T]

strawberries is quality and right at the grade despite the fact it always takes me 5+ goes to remember where to put my feet
Oh and trackside almost gave me a nipple-ectomy whilst I figured the top bit out.....

[Somebody's Fool]

The Art of White Hat Wearing, with its splendid new landing, probably now warrants a bouldering grade.

[Sloper]

Stawberries is Font 5+ (if not just Font 5)
Early Doors uses a heel hook and is easy 7a
Black Nix wall direct is font 7a+
Rat scabies is font 6c+
The wall to the right of Lepton is font 6c ish

[GCW]

Early Doors uses a heel hook and is easy 7a

That explains why I found it hard.  Thanks Slopes.

[tommytwotone]

I'm gonna regret saying this, but if you're short (like 5' 6'' ) and use the heel hook on trackside it ain't font 7a.

Sorry - wish it was but I ain't that good.

[Pantontino]

Don't forget that cool little Font 6b sds quarried arete just below Walk on By; plus another similarly difficult sitter just left. Nice.

[Jim]

Stawberries is Font 5+ (if not just Font 5)
Early Doors uses a heel hook and is easy 7a

have you been drinking sloper?
since when does anyone use a heel on early doors, and strawberries, even in font would not be a 5th grade problem.
am keen to go and do aowhw and sf's problem, have not been down that end before.

also, cofe, no matter how drunk I was sat night, you can't abuse me for wanting to do play hard, and then starting a thread with it.
some people...

[Stubbs]

I'm gonna regret saying this, but if you're short (like 5' 6'' ) and use the heel hook on trackside it ain't font 7a.

I'm quite short and thought that Trackside was hard for 7a as you have to rock over on the heel a lot more to get the top than taller people.
Early Doors good for 7a+ and better than GW as you don't have to worry about dabbing the boulder.
Strawberries is a frustrating piece of crap, good for sandbagging dicks like sloper who still find pleasure in getting one over on their 'mates'.  But right at the grade.

[Jaspersharpe]

Trackside is quite easy for 7a but still merits the grade imo (just). Feels tricky til you get the heel in properly. I'm quite tall but I don't see how it's a particularly height dependent problem as the hard bit is getting the weight over your left foot. Once you do then it's an easy (and not long) reach for the top.

Strawberries is 6b and feels very easy provided you have a sequence that works for you. 5+ is a fucking joke as most people who's limit is 6a dont stand a chance on it.

Play Hard doesn't use the crack.

[peterbull]

Agree with Sloper as far as Early Doors goes, a left heel on the slopers used for Hurricaine makes it an easier proposition for me. Also Trackside ain't 7a if you've got a decent reach, left foot on arete below seam and slap for the top with your right.

[dave]

Stawberries is Font 5+ (if not just Font 5)
Early Doors uses a heel hook and is easy 7a

have you been drinking sloper?
since when does anyone use a heel on early doors

I use heel, but its not easy 7a, its 7a+

jasper, trackside is height dependant, for a kickoff if you're around the 6' mark give or take you can do it by stadning up and slapping top with right hand, no heels etc.

anyone else done the eliminate on that boulder that uses the blob sloper, the crack/arete and the pockets? I.e. its easier problem without the little vertical seam? thats not easy, and a far cry from the B6 it got in the old guide.

[Scouse D]

, left foot on arete below seam and slap for the top with your right.

Ain't never seen that sequence before, but whichever way you do it I reckon it's 6c+.
Early doors is probably 7a+.Sloper has had a big 'I find early doors piss' routine ever since UKB started but it still ain't easy.GW I reckon is easier and 7a, EW 7a+.

[Jaspersharpe]

jasper, trackside is height dependant, for a kickoff if you're around the 6' mark give or take you can do it by stadning up and slapping top with right hand, no heels etc.

Ah I didn't know that. I'm 6' but I did it using the heel as it seemed the obvious way but I can see how it obviously makes a difference if you can miss out that move. I'm basing easy 7a on the fact that I did it first go and it felt ok when I repeated it. Suppose decent flexibility helps.

[Rice Boy]

Gorilla Warfare harder than Early Doors. (stamina v's power)
Dan's wall much much harder than Trackside at the same grade and style of climbing.
Sidetrack, fricking ace and much more falloffable/conditions dependant than Trackside.
Strawberries hard 6a+ the peaks answer to Marie Rose in terms of quality . .  and grade opinions?
Mantel on the back of Trackside - rather good.

Has anyone climbed Green Mile since the hold was pulled off?

[dave]

, left foot on arete below seam and slap for the top with your right.

Ain't never seen that sequence before,

Has your classroom not got a fume cabinet? I think all those chemicals are effecting your memory.

[neil h]

personally i wouldnt give eary doors a 7, in the right conditions it feels about 6c tops, were as trackside, im 6'1 with a plus 4 ape, and i still cant do it

were is the logic in that.


Ok start slagging me off 

[Jaspersharpe]

were is the logic in that.


Ok start slagging me off 

 

[neil h]

were is the logic in that.


Ok start slagging me off 

 

i just wanted a reply like that   

[dave]

Don't get me wrong, i find early doors pretty steady, but its never sub-7. makes me think something queer is afoot.

let me just check, you're all starting it properly from the flake at the bottom yeah, as per GW?

[neil h]

yes defo starting and finishing properly


Maybe its just me, I really dont find it hard and never have done. you are probably right, not sub 7, but real easy for 7 I say.

Maybe its just one of those kinda problems that just suit me right?


I have seen some very good climbers making a right meal off it.

[andyheb]

i've done trackside a few times but can never get it every time i go. That foot swap into the heel move always feels weird and hard. I think the key is swinging your hips round the bulge. On the other hand gorilla warfare gets the same grade and feels much easier and i can get that every time i go to curbar. Heel up on hand holds helps loads!
These probelms are both really good and my first 7a's and the best i've done so far!

[cowboyhat]

Great White is harder than Bens Wall. As to what that grade should be...? Are they both 7c?

Early Doors is not easier than 7a+ heel or no heel.

[Scouse D]

Ain't never seen that sequence before,

Has your classroom not got a fume cabinet? I think all those chemicals are effecting your memory.
[/quote]

Oh aye yeah. That's your sequence innit?
I say 'sequence' I mean abomination.
Sidetrack 7a and quality

[Jaspersharpe]

Sidetrack 7a and quality

I couldn't work out how this went at all.