[Jacqusie]

Someone nicked my project on the Ladies Butress Boulder - 10 years I've tried to do "Beth Jordache" - still lesbos & patios don't mix at froggatt! - Rowan - V4

 





Jimmy Corkhill was an easy one though on the same boulder.

Glad to sort out The Boat thereabouts & finally sent "Tom & Elsie" on the west wall a few years ago...

- but then theres the barrel butress in the woods to crack tho!

Thats getting a clean this weekend...

Any takers?


Si

[dave]

any chance of posting all that again in english?

[r-man]

Did Iain F not do this project to the break already?

Dylan, unless I'm very much mistaken, the Ian F thing is a different problem somewhere else at Froggatt. There aren't any dyno moves on the wall in the photo, and the break is a poor crimpy seam. The wall is quite big, maybe 6m high. It's a slab with awkward holds. Getting off the ground and getting stood up is tricky. The footholds are small or smears and the vertical crack above is only big enough for crimpy laybacking.

[Johnny Brown]

I think Iain's prob is up near Indoor Fisherman somewhere. In fact I hear he's quite the fisherman's friend.

[a dense loner]

that was terrible.

iain and others have done quite a bit of stuff here. will find out this wknd what

[Jacqusie]

I think Iain's prob is up near Indoor Fisherman somewhere. In fact I hear he's quite the fisherman's friend.

Is that Rowan?

V4 - on a boulder above ladies Butress?

The wall on ladies butress is a great problem (the one that Grimers on about) just who did it we wonder?

[a dense loner]

is this the same problem that's already been reported? the steep wall?

[Fiend]

All very confusing. Someone should write a guidebook to this stuff.

[Jacqusie]

Aye,

The Ladies Butress is opposite Brookside butress- just over the brook. The line that Grimers asking about is a lovely wall right of the chimney thats brushed & chalked.

The prominent picnic boulder behind this is where Rowan is. Thats probably Ians. My problem is the arete left - Jimmy Corkhill.

More to be done this weekend int woods!

Si

[Jacqusie]

We did 2 good probs today behind ladies Butress - Flipworker (V2 - 5c) and Flipper (V3- 6a) on a small bloc just befoe the next stuff - its a twin arete bloc thats down from the next prob...

The obvious little wall on the free standing boulder ROWAN V4

The arete is fun..  JIMMY CORKHILL V1

Behind Ladies butress & Just after the boulder that Has ROWAN & JIMMY CORKHILL on it (Ladies Boulder) - is a great bloc that has a wall in a gully thats chalked to shit.

Lovely problems - from left to right:

1 - Arete

2- Hard start up to an amazing scooped crimp & then hard to the shit top

3- Easier option - low flat holds & easier flatties above a shit slimy boulder


The lines are fair quality...

also as Jimmy Cricket said

....and there's more...

Cheers

Si

[butters]

We did 2 good probs today behind ladies Butress - Flipworker (V2 - 5c) and Flipper (V3- 6a) on a small bloc just befoe the next stuff - its a twin arete bloc thats down from the next prob...

The short armed one is getting them sent then judging by the names of the problems - you get anything sent there?

bluebrad

[tc]

sounds interesting. its like its 1997 again with the grades. can someone lend me some lasers?

I played out on a few boulders to the left of Indoor Fisherman in about 1997 in Lasers  The main fruit of my labours was a neat little face problem I called "The Seventeen Year Itch", which I recorded in the book at Outside. I seem to remember it being rather good, so if you can find the book (and the boulder) I'd be interested to hear what you think about it. Breck 6a I reckoned at the time 

[Jacqusie]

sounds interesting. its like its 1997 again with the grades. can someone lend me some lasers?

I played out on a few boulders to the left of Indoor Fisherman in about 1997 in Lasers  The main fruit of my labours was a neat little face problem I called "The Seventeen Year Itch", which I recorded in the book at Outside. I seem to remember it being rather good, so if you can find the book (and the boulder) I'd be interested to hear what you think about it. Breck 6a I reckoned at the time 

I know the name - its in the new guide as


17 Year Itch E1 6a  TC  (solo) 09/Jun/96

Climb the blunt slabby arête to the left of Slope Crack. (7m)



This is in the middle of the woods between Brookside Butress and the "white Gate"

We were down there putting a rope on a new problem yesterday...

Si


That the one?
 

[r-man]

[About Ian's problem] 7b+ maybe 7c was mentioned but don't know whether that involved the low move into it or just the obvious start?

[About Ian's problem]
Is that Rowan?

V4 - on a boulder above ladies Butress?

  Perhaps I'm missing something, but these two descriptions don't match.

[Jacqusie]

I think Ians problem is behind Rowan again on the crappy looking butress - until you get to the gully and probably one of the best looking lines in the area...

Its all gonna be in the guide - so all will be revieiled when Grimer & myself get our stubby fingers out...


Si

[dave]

Its all gonna be in the guide - so all will be revieiled when Grimer & myself get our stubby fingers out...

or why not just tell us all in plain english what you're talking about and give the other people here who's climbed stuff in the area chance to offer feedback, rather than wait till the guide is printed to find out half of it could be bollocks, done before etc.

[Andy B]

Does anyone know who's been doing some new stuff at froggatt, especially a superb looking steep wall near the brook?

...The stuff is on ladies Buttress...

...the crimpy wall thing at froggatt was done a while ago by iain farrar...

The wall on ladies butress is a great problem (the one that Grimers on about) just who did it we wonder?

Or at least read the thread.

[a dense loner]

was thinking that myself.

2- Hard start up to an amazing scooped crimp & then hard to the shit top
maybe 6a?

saw few of iains others today. all quite decent looking but need traffic. three of them in the same little area, off right before the style. big leaning arete 7a+/7b, sitting 7b+ ish, crimpy wall opp to the right with a tree half way up, looks good, bit high. right again and slightly down the hill, flake to slot under roof then out left over roof. no ideas on grades. was a bit too warm n midgy. sorry for the shit location description but it all looked the same.

andy the sit start is obvious. start matched under the right hand crimp, right hand up, left hand out, then throw to top.

[Andy B]

andy the sit start is obvious. start matched under the right hand crimp, right hand up, left hand out, then throw to top.

Couldn't have said it better myself. ???


The big arete looks good but the landing is a bit spicy, so we didn't try it.

We didn't see the thing further down the hill. Is it good too?

[a dense loner]

looked decent but didn't try. goin over the roof looks like if you come off backwards you're going a long way

[Jacqusie]

was thinking that myself.

2- Hard start up to an amazing scooped crimp & then hard to the shit top
maybe 6a?

saw few of iains others today. all quite decent looking but need traffic. three of them in the same little area, off right before the style.

What style's that? the one at the gate near the Grouse?

If so - its no where near the stuff I'm on about. There are no more styles on the way to Froggatt from the Hairpin boulder past the gate at Brookside.

Don't mind of being acused of being random - but calm down chaps - Its only bouldering & we are trying our best...

Si

[dave]

si, all i ask is that you make it clear what you're refering to. afterall we're talking about a guide here, as i've said theres no sense in holding back info even if its an insignificant area. I've been back and re-read most of this thread and still have very little handle what you're refering to in most cases! bearing in mind all the rest of us are not telepathic (thought it wold be useful now im married) and don't know what your own names for particular problems/boulders are, and we its hard to spot when you've said right instead of left, and when you say "YYYY problems behind XXXX wall" does this mean "behind" as in further on from the parking, or literally behind up the hill? also refering to problems "just before the next problems" or "after the last problem" isn't very useful if we don't know what you mean by "next problems". for example despite having been there, read grimers guide script and done some of the easier problems i still don't know what you're refering to as the "ladies buttress boulder", what "ROWAN & JIMMY CORKHILL" (indeed if these problems are even at the same buttress), what the picnic boulder is, what the gully boulder is etc.

Ok lets get specific. As far as I am aware, the ladies buttress area exists as follows (described as facing the crag):

On the left there is a leaning overhanging wall terminating in a ledge about half way up the full height of the crag, easier rock above. with a narrow rock landing, problem on crimps up the right hand side of the wall, this is iains crimpy problem, seems in the 7b-7c range.

Right of this is an easy chimney.

Right of the chimney is a tower-like buttress, with a warmup juggy traverse at head height and a couple of V3-4-5 highballs (i.e. routes) mentioned in grimers script.

Around to the right of the tower and further up the hillside about 6m away is a buttress with a cleaned flared crack-feature and 2m to the right of it is a rounded looking arete, both about 4-5m tall, bad landings. as far as I am aware these are also iaiainin's problems/projects.

Just down the hill from that and to the right a bit is a little free-standing block rounded cleaned slabby block with an OK landing. 2 slabby aretes, the right one is easier and uses a pod-like face hold to start, the left problem is harder and more tenuous. we did these a few weeks ago and had already been cleaned.

So how does the above relate to the things you're talking about?

[cofe]

stile, people. s-t-i-l-e.

[grimer]

Yes, we must not forget, stile is always impotent.

Anybody who wants to see the latest script with directions, etc. mail me. Most of the stuff discovered, dusted and done down there is the work of Iain The Farrar Side. He has provided me with loads of details on stuff. However, there are a few cleaned things he's not done yet, and as he has gone to so much trouble exploring and cleaning, I was just going to wait a little to finalise it all, to give him a chance to do his thing.

[Jacqusie]

Yes, we must not forget, stile is always impotent.

Anybody who wants to see the latest script with directions, etc. mail me. Most of the stuff discovered, dusted and done down there is the work of Iain The Farrar Side. He has provided me with loads of details on stuff. However, there are a few cleaned things he's not done yet, and as he has gone to so much trouble exploring and cleaning, I was just going to wait a little to finalise it all, to give him a chance to do his thing.

I would agree (Sorry Dave) - there is other people doing projects there too I know of and until it all falls into place (which it is doing) its best to carry on until finished?!

There are of course some uncleaned projects I know of that are not obvious that I'm happy for people to know of if they want to (which I've said all along in the past)

Cheers

si