[grimer]

Does anyone know who's been doing some new stuff at froggatt, especially a superb looking steep wall near the brook?

[Fiend]

Behold: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=262295

[dave]

sounds interesting. its like its 1997 again with the grades. can someone lend me some lasers?

[Pantontino]

Those were the days my friend, those were the days...

[grimer]

Thanks Fiend. Will check that out, but this is definitely different. The stuff is on ladies Buttress, across the stream from Indoor Fisherman.

[Fiend]

Hmmm dunno. Sir Simon Of Jacques keeps sniffing around there but I suspect the stuff you mean is harder than B0... Are there any paw-marks on it??

[Jacqusie]

The bouldery Froggatt stuff I left on Grimer's smelly deask at the BMC - is a tad confusing I agree - but then I am a local & know every squrriels name in the wood.

Niall - thats my project on the Brookside boulder - its Beth Jordache - working grade! Jimmy Corkhill is to the left on the same boulder - I am on wit the script - honest - its nearly done - give us a shout Irish...

Si

[Jacqusie]

Oh and you have my original script to Froggatt at ladies:

Ladies Butress
Ladies Butress direct
Belly Dancer

a great boulder start to Belly dancer if that what your on aboot?!

Behind is the Brookside boulder.

cheers

si

[RopeBoy]

Oh and you have my original script to Froggatt at ladies:

Ladies Butress
Ladies Butress direct
Belly Dancer

a great boulder start to Belly dancer if that what your on aboot?!

Behind is the Brookside boulder.

cheers

si

Belly Dancer! lol, I'd wiped that from my memory, looking back probably best done as a higball, but mats weren't used as much then.

J :-)

[r-man]

Checked out Paul Mitchell's problems at Froggatt today. Directions given took us on a bewildering tour down valleys, over bogs and up hills, to arrive (mostly by luck) at a small face right beneath the road, just round the corner from the car. So...

Directions: Walk down the road from the Froggatt carpark. Just a bit after the brick wall rises on the left and the metal safety barrier disappears on the right, hop over the wall on the right. The crag is just there, beneath. Two pads seemed fine for everything, but more might be useful.

This is the obvious highball line, which seems to match the Computer Say No description. It is excellent. One lovely move to swing up to the top of the arete. Font 6a+ ish. Movement a bit like Strawberries at Curbar, but easier and much much better.



Other problems... A 5+ arete. With traffic it would be quite nice...



Ants On The Moon - Another 5+ highball, or maybe VS.



Sideways Says Sigmund - We did a small traverse, which was fun enough to warrant a description - Start bridged between block and slab, and press left to finish on the arete. 6bish.



The project - Thin moves on unhelpful holds. Technical. I predict at least 7b+.

[dave]

so hang on, where does mitchell's B8 fit into all this?

[cofe]

i figured it was the left hand side of the wall w/o arete. the right hand side above the sloping landing being the project. but it looks like it would be hard to avoid the arete as the holds lead that way. hence what robin did makes sense. b8 looks eliminate - avoiding arete and trending up right to tree rather than left to arete.

the directions are rubbish.

[a dense loner]

i honestly think the word project gets banded about too often. in most cases recently, in my opinion, the word 'project' could easily be replaced with 'utter toss piece of rock that no one has bothered to climb on for good reason'. for me, at least, the word 'project' is inspiring. a bit like ben, jerry, and malcolm
if nobody was aware the crimpy wall thing at froggatt was done a while ago by iain farrar of man-flu fame. this may have been reported elsewhere

[dave]

word banks also did that the other week. terrible landing.

[Andy B]

if nobody was aware the crimpy wall thing at froggatt was done a while ago by iain farrar of man-flu fame. this may have been reported elsewhere

Do you have any knowledge on name, grade etc.

[r-man]

i figured it was the left hand side of the wall w/o arete. the right hand side above the sloping landing being the project. but it looks like it would be hard to avoid the arete as the holds lead that way. hence what robin did makes sense. b8 looks eliminate - avoiding arete and trending up right to tree rather than left to arete.

Yes, we were a little confused too. Nothing in the description actually says go out right, just use crack to right. And there are good holds below every tree. So we climbed what seemed like the obvious way up, and it was good, so we left it at that. Whatever we did, it's a very nice easier problem, one of those that reminds you why doing easier lines on grit is so fun. If this was around your limit it would be a real headgame.

[a dense loner]

not too sure andy. 7b+ maybe 7c was mentioned but don't know whether that involved the low move into it or just the obvious start? you will know more than me here since i haven't seen it. out of interest i know iain dynoed it but le grand doights is getting right heel high and going left to sloper. was going to go tomorrow but plans have changed now. will find out relevant details asap

[Andy B]

not too sure andy. 7b+ maybe 7c was mentioned but don't know whether that involved the low move into it or just the obvious start? you will know more than me here since i haven't seen it. out of interest i know iain dynoed it but le grand doights is getting right heel high and going left to sloper. was going to go tomorrow but plans have changed now. will find out relevant details asap

That's alot of knowledge for someone who hasn't even seen a problem! I did it from from sitting, and think that this is the only logical way, as it's not a very big wall and you can almost reach the top from standing. I couldn't quite reach the sloper from decent footholds, and so I dynoed it as well.

[uptown]

What's with the man-flu thing? I thought Iain's famous for getting sick from weird fungus meals?

[a dense loner]

take the low move thing with a pinch of salt andy, maybe a sideways move into it? will find out

[Andy B]

It's pretty obvious when you get there I think: Sit start on obvious crimp rail, straight up to next crimp rail, span left to another crimp, then either go again with left to sloper, or lay one on for the top. They are all the holds there is, unless there could be some dubious use of the right edge of the wall?

[a dense loner]

the integrity of the boulderers concerned is beyond question. no aretes were used. any fault in the reporting is my own

[Andy B]

No questioning of anything intended. When I say "dubious" it usually just means "something I might of missed." Who used the sloper method?

[Jacqusie]

Checked out Paul Mitchell's problems at Froggatt today. Directions given took us on a bewildering tour down valleys, over bogs and up hills, to arrive (mostly by luck) at a small face right beneath the road, just round the corner from the car. So...

Directions: Walk down the road from the Froggatt carpark. Just a bit after the brick wall rises on the left and the metal safety barrier disappears on the right, hop over the wall on the right. The crag is just there, beneath. Two pads seemed fine for everything, but more might be useful.

This is the obvious highball line, which seems to match the Computer Say No description. It is excellent. One lovely move to swing up to the top of the arete. Font 6a+ ish. Movement a bit like Strawberries at Curbar, but easier and much much better.



Other problems... A 5+ arete. With traffic it would be quite nice...



Ants On The Moon - Another 5+ highball, or maybe VS.



Sideways Says Sigmund - We did a small traverse, which was fun enough to warrant a description - Start bridged between block and slab, and press left to finish on the arete. 6bish.



The project - Thin moves on unhelpful holds. Technical. I predict at least 7b+.

I knew there was some fucking bouldering down there - just too fat & lazy to really explore!

...The Ladies Butress problem is quality & some ace lil lines round there too -

All will be shown to the world in time (we have only been doing this guide for 7 years now!!!   


si

[account_inactive]

Did Iain F not do this project to the break already?