[Ru]

2 new bits at the Tor

Fat Lip, font 8a+/8b, Ste Mac - this is the continuation lip traverse from the end of Weedkiller traverse, but starting in the jug under the roof near the end of Weedkiller (as per the 7c roof problem), going to the lip, then traversing left to finish up at the jugs at the end of Ben's Roof (ie finishing as per Keen Roof). Ste says it must be harder than font 8a, hence the 8a+/8b above, and that it's amazing.

Full Bleed, route 8b, Me - the wall right of Rattle and Hump on some small holds. 3 bolts, quite nice.

[Bonjoy]

 Always said that lip would make a good problem. Good effort to the both of you!

[monkey boy]

Aye keen to get on that was looking at it last summer when James was working Keen roof, thought it would be too hard then but looks fun for this summer!

[dave]

the lip thing looks good. opens up the possibilty of being able to link from saline drip to mecca extension, or even into mutations. Not a bad effort for steve considering he's shit and weak.

Nice one your route Ru. Looks Tor-turous. You should try linking blueband into it next.

[Ru]

After some discussion with Steve he's giving Fat Lip 8a+/b. Bonners, could you amend the original post?

[Bonjoy]

the lip thing looks good. opens up the possibilty of being able to link from saline drip to mecca extension, or even into mutations. Not a bad effort for steve considering he's shit and weak.

Not quite. Fat Lip starts up the 7c. The link moves from the end of Weedkiller and the upper bit of Fat Lip are hard. Weedkiller into Fat Lip will go I reckon, but will be even harder

[dave]

i don't recon getting from the head-height jug on WK to the 7c will be that bad. certainly if you're good enough to traverse all the way from saline drip it shoulnd't be a stopper.

[Bonjoy]

They look harder than the rest of the moves on FL to me.

[dave]

i'll check em out tomorrow.

[Stu Littlefair]

no need Dave. On monday I did the moves from the jog on Weedkiller into the upper part of Fat Lip in my trainers, whilst I couldn't do 2 of the moves on Fat Lip at all. I reckon the extra pump from Weedkiller will make things a bit harder, but not by much.

[cofe]

I did the moves from the jog on Weedkiller

that easy eh? beast. 

[Bonjoy]

God, aren't I full of shit.

[cofe]

goose shit presumably?

[dave]

roy mosley managed to pull off the undercut last night on ru's route - does this make it the shortest-lived tor route to date? anyway looks like it came off in 1 piece and consensus seemed to be it would be glueable. I thought it must be too good to be true that a tor route had no glue on it!

[Ru]

Which one?

[dave]

i think it was the left hand one of the pair.

[Andy B]

i think it was the left hand one of the pair.

It was indeed the left one.

[dobbin]

Bloody fatty Mosley and his ass of lead. Tsk.

[Ru]

Has Roy got the hold?

[Bonjoy]

I heard he had it holed up in a downtown warehouse and is asking for 50K in used notes for it's return



I can PM you his mobile if needed

[dave]

I heard he had it holed up in a downtown warehouse and is asking for 50K in used notes for it's return

.... and going to break a bit off and post it to Ru on the hour every hour. The money is to be left in an attache case hung on the 4th bolt of reveltations. Make sure you're not followed.

[Doylo]

also of note from the tor, Paul Smitton climbed Mecca in 3 days which is pretty quick i'd say!

[andy_e]

I could make a joke about hanging around on the route for 3 days without getting off the rock but I can't be arsed. Very good effort Paul! 

[Adam Lincoln]

also of note from the tor, Paul Smitton climbed Mecca in 3 days which is pretty quick i'd say!

And he is falling off pretty much the last move on pump up the stamina band....

[Ru]

3 days is pretty quick for Mecca, well done Paul, who is obviously going well. Has Ryan done it yet?

The undercut on my route is now back on, and I also reclimbed the entire section without it (this was before Roy turned up with the hold) so even if it falls off again the route isn't defunct. Without the undercut the route is a teeny bit harder (probably not enough to bump the grade up), but a lot more minging, so I thought it was best that the undercut went back on as the route is better.