[jfw]

Ok in my life I have redpointed 1 6c (directissima at kilnsey - i think its been downgraded in the new definitive guide  )

Anyway I went on consenting adults on sunday and managed to top rope it in 2 halves - i was made up  - i need to get fitter - but it definitely felt possible - but i am scared of pulling all that slack through to clip the 3rd bolt (having seen gus kick his belayer and narrowly miss the floor going for the onsight).

basically i am trying to tell myself that i will be alright (especially if i keep my feet up) - but i am a big girly wuss - arg should i just go do rose coronary instead???

maybe i could head point it and do it loads on toprope before trying to lead it - but not really entering into the spirit of sport climbing there.

[grimer]

i thought that was scary too. could you extend a clip?

[Bonjoy]

Fi took a bit of a wipper trying to clip that bolt. It's probably worth extending the clip so you can clip it before the crux. This sort of shenanigans is common place at Malham so you don't need worry about looking wussy.

[jfw]

cheers guys i can envisage all kind of daisy chain arrangements - but even a long quick draw (so that  if you have to do the crux before you clip  at least the clip is by your waist  - not above your head) would be better.

maybe a longer clip that can be reached from that little spiky thing (that i reach far left for in my sequence) would be good too!!

[soapy]

go fer it jfw

 

[BenF]

This sort of shenanigans is common place at Malham so you don't need worry about looking wussy.

 

Yeah, you'll probably be alright using a sixty foot clip stick to get the last clip then yoyo through to the belay.  That's normal up there.   

[jfw]

go fer it jfw

 

  genius - think i'll just do it with the 3rd bolt clipped!!

[Andy F]

Just clip off the big flattie above the nose (LH), with your Rfoot on the big hold out right. Easy peasy. But I have done it 537 times...
 

[IanP]

Yes its a scary clip, just badly bolt imho.   

Actually my advice would be to do Rose Coronary first (followed by Hartly Hare (righthand version), Puddlejumper, Sycophants etc, then you can move straight on to Free Even Easier and Appetite etc without bothering with Consenting  ).

And I don't know if the Directissima has been downgraded - but always feels well solid for 6c to me.

[Paul B]

And I don't know if the Directissima has been downgraded - but always feels well solid for 6c to me.

especially given the increasing polish and the temperamental duck on the starting ledge (long gone?) 

[andy_e]

temperamental duck on the starting ledge (long gone?) 

Probably not- the nest is still there!

Is there a clip stick long enough in the world to reach the first bolt of Directissima?

It's a toss-up between Hartley Hare into Puddlejumper and Smooth Torquer being my first 7... Just got some new shoes and quickdraws and I'm psyched!

[jfw]

the temperamental duck on the starting ledge (long gone?) 

fortunately there was only one temperamental bird on the route that day (and it was me)

didn't have a long clip stick for first bolt - got jill to clip it for me.

Actually my advice would be to do Rose Coronary first (followed by Hartly Hare (righthand version), Puddlejumper, Sycophants etc,
 

  you could have something there

[north_country_boy]

Actually my advice would be to do Rose Coronary first (followed by Hartly Hare (righthand version), Puddlejumper, Sycophants etc,
 

  you could have something there



[/quote]

Mmm, not so sure, Out of all those 7a's I reckon Consenting is the easiest (however like Andy F said, ive done it hundreds of times!).....ignore the polish & get used to it because its not just the 7a's which are that polished!

[Andy F]

Compared to one well known 8, Consenting is almost Grit-like...

[jfw]

managed to get back to malham finally

doing my bit to maintain the glosssy sheen - still haven't done the goddam route - but tried it on lead, and think i did it in two halves again - with an extra long girly clip (as well as the normal clip) on the third bolt.

can clip the long clip off the spike (on the left) then faff around doing the reeeeeaaaach round the bulge - then clipping the normal clip - would recommend this to any one else who like me is trying this route at their limit and has a distinct lack of moral fibre.

just to get leading after a life of professional seconding makes me feel i've overcome a big psychological barrier - but i expended a lot of energy being scared despite having the long clip (i.e climbing really slowly and holding really tight - yes i'm a wuss).

was actually glad to fall off on the crux - because i was trying properly to get  the hold - where as on my 2nd go i grabbed the "normal' quick draw despite having clipped the laughably extended one (which was by my waist). am so rubbish at routes i was knackered after 3 goes.

[grimer]

I understand the dancing banana did said route yesterday. Well done you, a happy ending for our little community.  Now if only Cider Nut could attin 100% consistency, we really would deserve an MBE.

[jfw]

 
cheers grimer - there was indeed much rejoicing!!

 

[andy_e]

Yay! Ace effort. Were you there last Sunday working it? If so we may have seen you.

 

[Doylo]

well done jo!

[jfw]

cheers guys! 

i went on a top rope on puddlejumper (good effort andi_e) and rose coronary after - - i think i was hoping they would be easy now i have climbed 7a!!

anyway they seemed loads more difficult - could have been tired from my exciting shake fest of an ascent though....

[Andy F]

Puddlejumper is probably a bit harder, Rose a bit easier IMHO