[Blunk]

but we're not telling till you start an OLD SKOOL photo's thread

Alright, alright, I'll see what I can find.  I suppose I'll have to find revealing clingy lycra shots to satisfy Doylo...

fingerstrength is just one factor for sucess, and the amount required will vary depending on the type of problem. there are 7as that require greater fingerstrength than some 8as...Its a gross oversimplification of the situation to the extent of being almost completely irrelevent, and no answer anyone could give you (wether its the answer you want to hear or not) would have any real meaning or useful application.

And Dave, I agree with your observations to a point. But like fatdoc I am pathetically weak compared to most other climbers at my grade level. This is mostly due to my height and weight, weighing 225 is a huge handicap despite having a big reach advantage. Also like fatdoc I have managed quite well over the years, doing many problems of various types and difficulties, making up for lack of strength by all sorts of skullduggery.

What I am looking for is a target. One that stronger people than me generally agree is valid, a benchmark level of power that is likely to be sufficient to get me up a V10.  (And hopefully I won't blow something out trying to achieve it!) Two examples: Moon, Nicole et al can easily crank one-arm pullups on half inch edges. That seems to be sufficent for 8B and harder. Yes I know they are superb at virtually every other aspect of climbing, but can you imagine they could do these problems without that level of strength? I cannot.

And second, a friend and I once did a 5.12 route that had one crux move, a crank off a 3/8 inch hold. We both did it easily and both commented that if you had the strength it was straightforward, without that strength it would have been impossible.

Thanks.

[Houdini]

225 Lb = over 16 stone.

(You are 7 1/2 stone heavier than me.)



I think you already have the power to do V10 but you are just too heavy.

Get lean.  Run, skip, jump, sauna, cut the meal size and any booze a bit (with Xmas on your back, ha!).


Then find a V10 (in good conditions) that completely suits your style, and live under it for a bit.

[chris]

dont worry about weight - look at quentin fisher, he is/was a big bloke but could still beadst out the v10s. Mule is right - its all about staying motivated, either with a problem or training wise. you will crack one its just a matter of time, so persevere!

[SA Chris]

What I am looking for is a target. One that stronger people than me generally agree is valid, a benchmark level of power that is likely to be sufficient to get me up a V10.  (And hopefully I won't blow something out trying to achieve it!) Two examples: Moon, Nicole et al can easily crank one-arm pullups on half inch edges. That seems to be sufficent for 8B and harder. Yes I know they are superb at virtually every other aspect of climbing, but can you imagine they could do these problems without that level of strength? I cannot.

I predict a diet, I predict a diet. How tall are you Blunk?

I managed to shift a stone (16 UK pounds) without and major lifestyle changes and I was amazed what a difference it made to my pulling power.

[fatdoc]

bollox , i know there is sense here... but i'm not called fatdoc for nought you know!!

[SA Chris]

Sorry fatdoc, which bit is bollox and why?

[Nibile]

i think one very important thing is also being able to decipher every single aspect on every move on the problem, when being at/over your limit.
knowing exactly, by the inch if possible, where your body has to be, and where and how grab every hold. and being able, try after try, to save a little bit more on every move, to take out even half a kg pressure from the fingers.
in brief, to get to a percentage of error/improvement close to zero. then its just power.

[Doylo]

I managed to shift a stone (16 UK pounds) without and major lifestyle changes and I was amazed what a difference it made to my pulling power.

Your not wrong, i shifted a stone last year and was floating up stuff, put it back on now though

[fatdoc]

Sorry fatdoc, which bit is bollox and why?

me being bollox, and me in reality knowing the slightly extra mass one can use to advantage (or get away with at least) in DH MTB will not be tolerated by gravity when trying to achieve personal goals in bouldering. i'm  not thinkin stick thin mad bulimia here.... just less fat around the midriff sort of stuff....

[Blunk]

I predict a diet, I predict a diet. How tall are you Blunk?

I managed to shift a stone (16 UK pounds) without and major lifestyle changes and I was amazed what a difference it made to my pulling power.

I am 6' 7".  225 lbs is only 5 lbs heavier than my weight when I was climbing my best problems. I have the frame of a bricklayer rather than a modern climber. I am dieting, trying to get down to 215 for the winter.

i think one very important thing is also being able to decipher every single aspect on every move on the problem, when being at/over your limit.
knowing exactly, by the inch if possible, where your body has to be, and where and how grab every hold. and being able, try after try, to save a little bit more on every move, to take out even half a kg pressure from the fingers.
in brief, to get to a percentage of error/improvement close to zero. then its just power.

Words to live by Nibile!

[a dense loner]

good god blunk, do you double as something cowboys ride on at rodeo's? not meant in the way that doylo is now thinking. i think you need to play to your strengths, please tell me these are open-handing and pinching stuff? the vast majority of people on here have to run around in the shower to get wet, so listening to them beat out the same old tune is rather pointless for you. not dissin the tune btw it's bloody good if you're in a certain weight/price bracket, n i would normally advise said tune but like the great arnold once said "if you've got weedy legs you wouldn't ask tom platz for training advice", not verbatim that. if the area where you live is a certain style ie crimping or roofs with small holds then i would suspect you're going to have a lot harder time than most. then it all depends what you consider to be a proper 7c+.
did i read that you can one-arm deadhang off a 1 1/2" hold? if so at 225 lbs that's impressive. i would need to strap paul b, ru, stu, n doyle at his fighting weight, onto my back to begin to approach that. jim would need to diet

[ferret]

blunk

try mirror mask at evans went the snow clears, steep big moves big holds. given v11 tho easy v10

hav fun

[irish si]

ferret

this is easy if you are short, like roofs, have massive biceps, are burley as fuck and climb V12.  Otherwise I thought it was tricky.

[irish si]

the problem for you blunk has to be fleshfest at the flatirions??  Techy arete, high, oldskool, a little soft ive heard..  Drop me a pm and i will go do it with you.  keep meaning to go up there.

or have you tried black ice??

[saltbeef]

the problem for you blunk has to be fleshfest at the flatirions??  Techy arete, high, oldskool, a little soft ive heard..  Drop me a pm and i will go do it with you.  keep meaning to go up there.

or have you tried black ice??

you can tell what si's thinking... now, there's some old skool high arete i'd like to do. i could take jackie and tyler to spot... shit thats no good, if only jim or some 16stone monster lived round here...
merry christmas si!

[Blunk]

good god blunk, do you double as something cowboys ride on at rodeo's? not meant in the way that doylo is now thinking. i think you need to play to your strengths, please tell me these are open-handing and pinching stuff? the vast majority of people on here have to run around in the shower to get wet, so listening to them beat out the same old tune is rather pointless for you. not dissin the tune btw it's bloody good if you're in a certain weight/price bracket, n i would normally advise said tune but like the great arnold once said "if you've got weedy legs you wouldn't ask tom platz for training advice", not verbatim that. if the area where you live is a certain style ie crimping or roofs with small holds then i would suspect you're going to have a lot harder time than most. then it all depends what you consider to be a proper 7c+.
did i read that you can one-arm deadhang off a 1 1/2" hold? if so at 225 lbs that's impressive. i would need to strap paul b, ru, stu, n doyle at his fighting weight, onto my back to begin to approach that. jim would need to diet

I eat the creatures cowboys ride. Once in my previous job as a rancher I had to choke down a crazed cow bare handed. Judo-style arm bar across the neck while she dragged me across a field. I am serious. Not my most intelligent moment...

My strength is crimping, believe it or not. I'm best on about 10-15 degrees overhanging, not good on roofs or heel-hoooky things. I can manage pretty well on slopers if I have enough sessions to figure out the sweet spots and body tension necesary.

Yes, I can dead hang 1 1/2 inch holds. Most girls can too.

My ideal V10 would be slightly to moderately overhanging, big moves, smallish holds. irish si has a good suggestion in Fleshfest, I will take you up on that si. I will be happy to spot you, but I doubt you'll be happy to spot me! 

[a dense loner]

Once in my previous job as a rancher I had to choke down a crazed cow bare handed

that's not that impressive blunk. i've had to do that more than once, you've obviously never been to oldham.
i realise most girls would be able to hang on a 1 1/2" hold, however i would be the first to shit myself if they did this whilst weighing 225lbs.
i secretly knew you'd say crimping, i knew it, knew it!
be gentle with si, he bruises easily

[Blunk]

You're coming to Hueco soon right Dense? Probably get to wrestle some big girls in El Paso. 

Have a good trip!

[Blunk]

that's not that impressive blunk.

Thanks for saying that, it snapped me out of a terrible flashback. Her hot breath on my face, udders swinging wildly while she bucked up and down on all fours. Me hanging on for dear life until she finally relented and went to her knees.

An experience like that never gets out of your mind, y'know?

Wouldn't mind having a look around Oldham sometime...

[a dense loner]

aw blunk no. i can just imagine what doylo's going to be doing when he reads that paragraph

[Doylo]

splodge

[Jim]

oh no!

[irish si]

merry xmas boeuf

good to see your pulling down on the sports routes....

hope uni aint to bad...

come visit...

[Somebody's Fool]

oh no!

I thought that exchange would have been well below your 'oh no!' threshold Jim.  You getting more sensitive in your old age?  It's not exactly double f**ting.

[Jim]

it is doyle tho