Hen Cloud LGP now a GP (Read 11452 times)

AndiT · October 30, 2006, 08:17:09 pm

A quick trip up to Hen Cloud tonight saw Jon Read climbing one of Hen Clouds well known un-climbed lines

The 'runnels' right of High Tensile Crack have long been eyed and tried by many, but the commiting bouldery moves and the lowly stature of the routes have meant the buttress has remained un-breached. Starting of a ledge which is six foot above a looooong sloping grassy precipice, the hard moves come immediately with some slopey holds and foot flinging between crappy toe-hooks before the fine upper cracks are reached.

Jon soloed the route after pre-practice on a few days spread over a few years! Mark Sharratt took photies whilst I lashed myself in for spotting duty. The impetus arrived for the solo after the route had been chalked by Justin Critchlow last week, Jon felt the urgency and promptly did the route before sun down. No name yet, but a quip of 'Justin Time' has been suggested and a grade somewhere in the E5 6b ball-park.

It is very good climbing (I've been on it myself, twice in the past few years) and no doubt will soon become a well travelled route, taking the new bouldery highball trend. Hen Cloud is definitely the place to be.

Well done Readza

Bonjoy · October 30, 2006, 08:29:16 pm

Good stuff! Any pics on the way?

AndiT · October 30, 2006, 08:38:05 pm

yes, very soon.

Oli · October 30, 2006, 08:41:46 pm

Good effort by Jon.

I'll look forward to seeing the photos.

a dense loner · October 31, 2006, 02:14:19 pm

good name, badger him to keep it. i proposed johnny call help the young sitter adams rib but he wasn't interested, fool!

Bonjoy · October 31, 2006, 02:25:28 pm

According to the bible woman was created from one of Adam's ribs...
...probably not that one though

a dense loner · October 31, 2006, 02:55:03 pm

and there are still people out there that think i'm stupid

AndiT · November 01, 2006, 09:05:43 am

I don't think Justin even knows that Jon has done it yet, so he might be a bit miffed, I'll put it to him gently. I have the pics now, so I'll stick them on tonight.

Andi

AndiT · November 01, 2006, 05:58:36 pm

How do I put pictures in? I've got some to stick on...

slackline · November 02, 2006, 01:45:20 am

Quote from: AndiT on November 01, 2006, 05:58:36 pm

How do I put pictures in? I've got some to stick on...

Grab a flickr account upload your photos there, and then use the Insert Image button above (second one in from the left on the second row) to link to the static URL of the picture (which you can find at the bottom of the page when viewing the picture at flickr).

HTH's

slack

AndiT · November 07, 2006, 09:43:46 am

Hi,

I've given up trying to get pictures on, I keep failing miserably. They are on UKC, search for Just in Time. There was another new route done up there on Saturday aswell...

Cheers,

Andi

Somebody's Fool · November 07, 2006, 09:46:35 am

Oooh, you are modest.

AndiT · November 07, 2006, 10:05:59 am

Bonjoy · November 07, 2006, 10:21:31 am

Good work Andi! Any pictures of your route on the way?

AndiT · November 07, 2006, 10:41:04 am

Again there'e one on UKC, it's called Catharsis. There is a good set of pics from Jon Read, he kind of documented the whole affair, from practice to ascent to gay big-grin shots afterwards and all that. I'll try get a couple of others stuck on too at some point.

Cheers.

John Cooke · November 07, 2006, 10:48:13 am

Effort Readza!

Somebody's Fool · November 07, 2006, 11:06:36 am

Well done Andi. Heard Martin realised a long held ambition as well. A momentous weekend for the Leek climbing community

AndiT · November 07, 2006, 11:18:21 am

Yes, he did, nice one Dearden. A saturday that will be etched in stone for the leek lads. We had a few scoops that night, and Sharratt celebrated in his own special way by chatting up a woman in V-bar who had ferrets a rainbow skirt and walking boots on, who later tripped over a sofa, amazing.

Yes a very good Saturday indeed.

andy popp · November 07, 2006, 12:03:41 pm

What else was done then?

AndiT · November 07, 2006, 12:13:04 pm

Martin Dearden has been trying Inertia Reel Traverse for nine years, like Ru said in the new guidebook, some people have spent their entire climbing careers trying to tick this one - that was aimed at Mart! He finally did it on Saturday, hurray! There is a picture of him in the old Bouldering Guide on it (there is one of you, too) when he was young and spritly, he has since evolved into a traversing machine! A fantastic and highly tenacious effort, perhaps only comparable to Neil Pearsons 14 year affair with revelations...

So it was double celebrations on Saturday night, his problem taking quite a bit more effort to complete than my project!

andy popp · November 08, 2006, 10:23:31 am

Good efforts all round. Nice to see Stafforshire back in the limelight a bit.

hongkongstuey · November 08, 2006, 01:34:08 pm

Nice one Andi - I must say though, it's about time you got a hair cut mate...

All I can see is an afro bouncing up the route: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=55937

AndiT · November 08, 2006, 05:15:27 pm

What you talking about, that is a haircut! I had a load taken off the week before, so much so that I couldn't tie it back, hence afro, it was the same then as now: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=325

Hope all is well stu.

slim · November 10, 2006, 10:09:36 am

i heard about that, nice one andy, but can you not do routes without jumpin for the top!? your tall enought!

AndiT · November 10, 2006, 10:26:17 am

Cheers slim! I can't help but jump, I tried in vain to find another way but after all was said and done it was the only way. There are some very poor holds in the wall, but I couldn't hang them, let alone pull on them, but they are there and may be the way for someone else. Time will tell...