[Bubba]

I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?

[Monolith]

I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?

I suppose yeah, I'm not really poised to speak on the finer points of top-top end climbing grading. Consensus at that level will always be contested amongst a very small number of individuals climbing at that level - will leave it up to them to deliberate!

[squeek]

I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?

You might be able to say you reckon it's harder than what you've already climbed if you've given it some good tries, but can you give it a grade?  Not really relating this to this problem or Tyler, who's obviously very good, but couldn't this translate to anything.  ie "I've done similar V9s I can't pull on it must be V11"? 

Anyway:

Tyler is a strange climber, he seems to piss the majority of stuff above 8a yet below that he oftens finds stuff nails.

maybe it's just easier than 8a?   

[Sloper]

I dunno, if you've done some 8b's and you can't even pull on, then you may be right to assume it's somewhere around 8c?

Bollox that's pex 5b yooof

as any fule kno

[Bubba]

Hell, this is all hypothetical for almost all of us on here but yes Squeek, I agree - you can't give it an actual number....but you probably can assume it's harder than what you've done if it's the same style of climbing you're good at?

Anyway, it doubt it would rock the world of climbing if a Gaskins problem turned out to be a bit harder than it's orginal given grade!

* that's my monthly babble about climbing out of the way, I'll get back to talking about bikes and music instead.

[a dense loner]

tyler was saying it tongue in cheek, and as a testament to the blind vision of gaskins. obviously if we compare it to new base log, pill box starts with a 9

[Doylo]

Tyler's 15, he tends to make throwaway comments like that. Obviously he doesn't really think its 8c, its just one of his sayings.

[c.j.d.]

  I popped round to the pill box after a sesion in the cave last week.  Having thought 'I've not tried this for a couple of years' I had aquick go at said Gaskins problem.  1st move + 2nd move piss, 3rd move V.hard (ie fell off), 4th move 8a by its self.  V12/13?  Well, its alot harder than anything I've ever done thats similar - Gaskins, you are de man.  In the words of the Doyle "Its not fuckin' V13 is it!".  Hardest 4 move V13/14 problem in Britain - well, Ive not seen MonkLife, but its harder than Kaizen...

[Doylo]

Nige told me that Gaskins problem at Little Font is like the Pil Box Problem in a roof! Il Pirata whilst also being the worst problem in Britain is also like pil box in a roof. Also with Gaskins ascent of Gossip i reckon its about time these problems were graded right. 
 


Pil Box Problem 8b+(yes i know he did it in a sesh)
Kaizen 8b+
At the Heart of it All 8c
Il Pirata 8c+
Little Font Problem 8c+

Before anyone casts me down this is all a bit tongue in cheek. These problems are all beyond my comprehension. Also good effort to CJD for pulling onto that hold on Pil Box (does this have a name?)

[Houdini]

The Pill Box is a great name.

[c.j.d.]

  The Pill Box is agood name!  Gaskins said he had one lined up but had'nt got round to naming it yet.  Also, in the words of the G:

Isla - bottom end 13
Kaizen - bottom end 14
Il Pirata - top end 15
Heart of it... - bottom end 15
Walk away sitter - benchmark 15, stand up - good 13
Little font thing - V15 (says this whilst laughing).
Trowbarrow project - was V16 before the hold broke, since then he has done the move. and again, starts laughing. ahem.

[Nigel]

Heart of it... - bottom end 15

Originally given V13/14.

Walk away...stand up - good 13

Originally V12/13.

Little font thing - V15 (says this whilst laughing).

Originally V14 (looks about V20 next to anything else, even other Gaskins stuff!).

Looks like a bit of a pattern there eh! Wouldn't be surprised at all if Pil Box thing turned out to be V13/14 or 8b/+ in the "mortal" scheme of things.

I agree with Doyle, maybe it is time that some of these problems were upgraded by popular vote, the grades at the minute give the misleading impression that Gaskins is climbing at a similar level of difficulty to several other top beasts, when realistically no-one is close. Usually not even close to pulling on! I sometimes worry that these problems will be passed over by the world scene as "just more very hard problems", when really they are a generation ahead of everything else.      Recognise

[c.j.d.]

  In was talking about that with nodder ther other day.  The level at which Gaskins is climbing is way above anyone else.  I know that these things have ben worked and are in his back yard, (same as any other top climber), but it does ma ke you think ie Katz and dunning go to sweitzerland and do all the moves on from the dirt grows the flowers (real v15) but could they do the moves on the little font thing - i doubt it.  there is a big difference.  sorry tyler for taking the subject away from your achievment - big ups young man, i've done bugger all for ages!

[Nigel]

Would quite like to keep banging on the Gaskins drum but Tyler just did  Nuthin' But Sunshine 8b+, in 2 hours! (check out his 8a.nu). That is unbelievable. Totally totally world class, who else has ever done an 8b+ this quick? Only a handful of the worlds most famous climbers. 100% respect - go Ty!   

P.S. With regard to Chris' Gaskins comments - I remember showing Katz Walk Away Sit Start (also real V15). He didn't try it cos it was wet, but he wouldn't have done the moves in a sesh. He said so himself! He said that no-one he had ever seen climb, not even M*****m S***h, would be able to do the stand up even. (Disclaimer - pure conjecture, but you get the idea!). Your usual V15 these days are power endurance problems, usually over ten moves, so the top climbers are just linking a couple of sections each worth 8b say, hence the substantial pool of the world's 8b climbers may be able to do all the moves, although couldn't link it. Gaskins stuff is short (e.g. Walk Away - 5 hand movements (of which only 3 are hard), one foot movement). The moves are correspondingly harder than jumping between some decent-ish granite holds for a while. Much harder. Lets hope Ty is the next generation and can do these problems without having to train specifically for a decade, otherwise we may have to wait even longer before repeats!

[a dense loner]

looks like tyler will be carrying si's pads. back to school with you young man

[Doylo]

Would quite like to keep banging on the Gaskins drum but Tyler just did  Nuthin' But Sunshine 8b+, in 2 hours!

Christ,I remember when Graham did NBTS, he regarded it as a very big deal and at the time it was sposed to           be the hardest problem in the states. I think its generally regarded as as hard 8b over there now but still amazing to do it in two hours.I reckon by the time Si gets there Tyler will have plenty of groupies carrying his pads, it'll be like flies   round    shite

[Johnny Brown]

I sometimes worry that these problems will be passed over by the world scene as "just more very hard problems"

I am absolutely sure these problems will be passed over completely by 'the world scene', and it won't be because they are undergraded.

[a dense loner]

 

[cowboyhat]

The level at which Gaskins is climbing is way above anyone else. 

When you consider that a 15 year old boy is climbing at or around the perceived 'top level', this statement is easy to believe.

But again JB is totally right. Who is this john gaskins guy again...?

[Fj]

He said that no-one he had ever seen climb, not even M*****m S***h, would be able to do the stand up even.

Whats happened to M*****m S***h? Still a monster?

[Percy B]

Watch out for throw away comments regarding 15 year olds - David Lama won the Austria round of the Bouldering world cup on Saturday (the first one hes been old enough to enter). Sounds like an OK effort 'til you see the list of waddage he beat! 

[account_inactive]

They will never beat our hair cuts though

[Percy B]

Thats not a haircut. Its an illness.

[Bubba]

What do you know about haircuts

[Resonate]

any pictures of the little font problem?