[Bonjoy]

It's the same crag, the documentation came with photographs.
 The works are unrelated to the access issue. The Highways Agency are commisioning the work I think as part of road maintenance plan.

[fatdoc]

Toad Hall, the story so far:










The first pic shows the fear of FBSF as he looks down at the huge volume of stting sika and reralises it's not all gonna be put on the crag !! next 2 are of a a font 6c (ish) sitter on the Right hand side.... quite good actually..

[Monolith]

What's the rock quality like at Toad Hall? Looks a bit like some of the chossy rock underneath the bridge at Devils Gorge.

[fatdoc]

put it this way,

the crag is under construction.

[(woz)]

Had a look at the Tufa cave in Alport today. Was very impressed with the rock and problems, in particular the long roof/lip on the LH buttress. Felt 7b ish:


RH buttress 6c:


Looked like a bit of scope for more problems on the RH buttress (slightly damp today), and a very hard line direct through the LH roof.

[Ru]

Wow, that's been cleaned up a bit since I was there.

[Bonjoy]

Had a look at the Tufa cave in Alport today. Was very impressed with the rock and problems, in particular the long roof/lip on the LH buttress. Felt 7b ish:

Yeah, that's what Iain reckoned. He also said you could do a good harder version sticking to holds under the roof. Don't think he ever thought of a name. BTW, the crag is called Nuda's Tartan according to one of the old Peak Supplements.

[r-man]

Contender for best crag name?

Any idea where it comes from? Surely nothing to do with:



How big is the crag, by the way? It's hard to tell from the pics.

[(woz)]

I tried the line straight through the roof, but the pockets were pretty sharp, and the tree unfortunatly gets in the way of a big swing. Good line though.

As for the size, the arete is around 15 moves long, and the wooden frame in the background is about 6ft high - so it's a decent sized cave.

[Bonjoy]

It's only an Elder tree (common and fast growing) and as evidenced at Raventor will tollerate a good deal of pruning and still grow back.

[(woz)]

I met Polish Dave at the Cemetery boulder today. Asked him about this cave and he said he and Kristian Clemmow did the lip traverse a while back. Dave reckoned the climbing was really good - steep with a dynamic finish, at around 7b/7c. They never climbed the line through the roof, this is apparently really hard. He was disappointed to hear no one climbs there anymore - he thought the problem had great moves.

Wad point for whoever has cleaned this cave up. It looks much better now. The lip traverse thingy was excellent (as far as peak limestone goes), and although I didn't do it, 7b+/7c felt about right. The project line looks just as good, and 8bish hard. Anyone know what other stuff has been climbed here?

Am psyched to return for the traverse when I'm less full of cake. I'll post up some pics in a bit that I took which make it look less shit than the one that is already up here.

N.B. Bradwell dale is shit for bouldering, as is Windy Knoll Cave.

[Bonjoy]

 I always thought that despite what some folks say that cave looked quite good, shame about the proximity to the busy road.
 Other than dave i've not heard of others climbing there.

[(woz)]

It's not so bad with the leaves out on the trees - in the odd 10 sec gap between lorries you can almost forget that you are in probably the least pleasant valley in the peak.

Whoever left their Lapis brush there - I now have it. You might get it back if you ask nicely.

[r-man]

Could have been Polish Dave who cleaned it up - he's been working the project recently and can apparently do all the moves. He gave my friend the tour, and my friend came back raving about the place. I'm keen to go and check it out as soon as I've stopped limping.

[Mark Lloyd]

where is the tufa cave in Alport ?

[(woz)]

just as you enter the village on the main road (when coming from the Stanton side), it is visible in the trees to the right. A tiny road branches right which runs by the rocks.

[(woz)]

The lip traverse.

[r-man]

Dave gave me a name the other day -

Hannibal - 7c+ - The right to left lip traverse. Dave started it on jugs to the far right of the crag, and finished at the tree on the wall above. It can also be started from a sitstart below the lip, and is a little easier that way. I think this was done in 1999, or thereabouts.

I've played on this traverse, and it's excellent. Shouldery moves on funky holds to get established on the lip, then big dynamic moves on fingerjugs to finish. Must be one of the best problems on lime.

I'll post some pics and videos when Dave does the project through the roof - hopefully today, he's getting really close. It's one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've witnessed. Really crazy moves.

[(woz)]

Hannibal - 7c+ - The right to left lip traverse. Dave started it on jugs to the far right of the crag, and finished at the tree on the wall above. It can also be started from a sitstart below the lip, and is a little easier that way. I think this was done in 1999, or thereabouts.

IMO the SS under the lip looks/felt a little more logical, but that might be just me.

I've played on this traverse, and it's excellent. Shouldery moves on funky holds to get established on the lip, then big dynamic moves on fingerjugs to finish. Must be one of the best problems on lime.

Agreed. The roll over press move to the positive crimp is really good.

I'll post some pics and videos when Dave does the project through the roof - hopefully today, he's getting really close. It's one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've witnessed. Really crazy moves.

I'm excited

[cofe]

ru on the lip trav:



scouse appears to be thinking "ooh goody gumdrops"

[r-man]

Nice shot.

How hard did you guys think it was? We were guessing 7b+/7c.

Did anyone try Andronicus?

[Johnny Brown]

Look at the size difference between Ru and Dave. It looks like either Ru is further away than he appears or Dave has been photoshopped on. Amazingly its neither.

[Idol eyes]

"These cows are toy cows, those cows are far away"

[Paul B]

How hard did you guys think it was? We were guessing 7b+/7c.

I reckon 7C, has dave renamed it as when talking about it a while ago he gave it a name that I couldn't pronounce and it wasn't H-A-N...

[Scouse D]

scouse appears to be thinking "ooh goody gumdrops"

Was really psyched for this problem but tired after the tor. Very keen to get back on it for the link, brilliant moves as r-man says.