[Monolith]

Pretty sure that's the one I spotted a while back. Had a lovely hypodermic syringe in there and other assorted shite. And yeah as you say Paul, it's utter balls.

[Richie Crouch]

Is that the one just off the road up the hill from Stoney Middleton? Looks familiar! 

[Paul B]

yup.

[r-man]

I visited the large cave behind the Wetton Mill Teashop a couple of weeks ago. Very limited potential but a nice traverse and maybe a couple of worthwhile up problems. Not really worth a specific trip tho

Couple more shots...

[Bonjoy]

 How hard is the trav? Looks like a fair size cave, why so little potential, blankness, looseness?

[r-man]

Traverse is a pumpy 7a/7a+, no hard moves, just steep.

Most of the problems would go up through the traverse line - maybe 5 problems? Not loads to do, but they could be ok. That featured thing at the back is quite funky, and whatever problems climb it would be lots of fun. Probably very hard though.

The amount of climbable rock is unfortunately quite small given the size of the cave. The roof is open so it's reasonably light, but although the rock seems to stay quite dry, the ground is a bit of a quagmire after rain.

[Bonjoy]

Looks quite large on this pic I found

[r-man]

Is that a child or a shrunken humanoid? Because you can reach the traverse from standing.

Anyway, the cave is quite large, but there's nothing worth climbing behind the camera man. The traverse starts on jugs in the corner (behind the creature in your the pic) and moves right along an obvious line. The up problems would be sit starts into this line (not really worth climbing above this - looks a bit chossy).

[r-man]

I met Polish Dave at the Cemetery boulder today. Asked him about this cave and he said he and Kristian Clemmow did the lip traverse a while back. Dave reckoned the climbing was really good - steep with a dynamic finish, at around 7b/7c. They never climbed the line through the roof, this is apparently really hard. He was disappointed to hear no one climbs there anymore - he thought the problem had great moves.

[r-man]

Some pics of Neil Travers on some esoteric lime problems, and mention of a new secret location


Neil's Wall - 7c+


Swing Thing - 7b

I do have a limestone wall I’m about to write up which has one of the best 7c+ problems in the peak on it

List of FAs

Boulder probs : Little rascal sit start 8a Burbage South, In Bulk 8a+ Crag X, Spider Man 7c+ Crag X, Neil’s wall 7c+ Beginners wall. Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+

More here
http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Clogg/RedChili/NeilTravers/

[Bonjoy]

Not so secret 

Neil on Neils Wall 7c+ another new problem...at his secret spot....Click to enlarge

First ascents :
Trad : Turtle Power E6 6c Stanage (unrepeated?), Flabby Crack E6 6c, Hen Cloud, Back in the YMCA E5 6c Stanage.

Boulder probs : Little rascal sit start 8a Burbage South, In Bulk 8a+ Crag X, Spider Man 7c+ Crag X, Neil’s wall 7c+ Beginners wall. Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+

[r-man]

Yeah, the article is a little confusing (photo caption says Neils wall is at the secret spot), hence I edited my post, but Beginner's wall doesn't seem to be the secret spot - look at the FA list, the secret spot is perhaps "Crag X"?

Also, on the FA list there are two Neil's walls listed...

[Bonjoy]

 You mean In Bulk and Spiderman? Could be names of variations at the usual crag x,  especially given that they sound like possible wordplays on Superman and the Hulk 

[r-man]

Yeah, maybe. It's all a little odd.

It would be a strange if the article talked about a secret spot then revealed it at the end. But then there are a fair amount of inconsistencies, so who knows...

Are these problems on Beginner's Wall?

Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+

[Bonjoy]

Yes

[Pantontino]

Come on r-man catch up, this has already been reported in the mags and discussed on here before.

I've been saying it for a while now, but I'll say it again: what the Peak needs is a bouldering news website.

Shame you're disapearing on holiday Bonjoy. Maybe those Beardown boys could do the deed? Cofe, Dave, Kim are you listening? How about it?

[r-man]

Yeah, I've read about the beginners wall stuff, was just confused by an article that mentioned beginners wall as well as a secret spot.

You're right though. And even better than just a news site, a yorkshiregrit/bleau.info style website would be excellent, if anyone has the time and skills.

Perhaps some sort of wiki? Where anyone can make changes, and all the site administrator has to do is approve them?

[Pantontino]

I agree about the interactive voting/comment thing. I used to be sceptical about the value of this, but I've come to realise that it is a good thing (if occasionally abused). I've got plans to upgrade the NWB site with some interactive features, just haven't had time to do it yet. Hopefully I'll get it sorted in the next few months.

[Bonjoy]

 I love the Bleau/Yorkshiregrit thing of having user edited pages on specific problems. It'd be great to see something like this for the peak.
 How about you starting one r-man? You have some experience making websites and a penchant for listing.

[r-man]

Maybe, maybe. I'd want to make a proper job of it, and at the moment I just don't have time. Maybe later this winter though. Would be a great resource, and it's definitely crying out to be done.

[Ru]

I've written those probs on Beginners wall up for Climb a couple of months ago, so not that secret. Neil's Wall looks quite good though, but not tried it yet.

[Monolith]

I love the Bleau/Yorkshiregrit thing of having user edited pages on specific problems. It'd be great to see something like this for the peak.

It's loco that there currently isn't such a facility. What with Sheffield being home of The Designers Republic, and a design capital in itself, there has to be some willing soul somewhere? Surely Sheffield is brimming with web design-boulderers!?

Maybe a peak bouldering site fund similar to the rebolting one could take place? Raise the funds to have a booming site designed and then elect a small-scale crew of moderators. I'm no Peak local, but I'd be willing to throw some money in the direction of such a cause.

[Pantontino]

I don't think money is the stalling point with the Peak bouldering website. As with most things in life it is available time. A site like the one that is being proposed would require a significant chunk of time to set up and maintain.  It could be done by a team of people sharing the work load (although inevitably that would end up landing on one or two individuals, such is human nature), or by one or possibly two super keen people (one covering the east side, one covering the west).

I think it would be quite likely that advertising revenue could be attracted, after all it would almost certainly have big traffic figures (even a small site like NWB gets 7-8k of unique sessions per month). That flow of money could pay for a site editor's time. Although it might be better to keep it independant and invite donations as UKB has done.

[Monolith]

Aye, either way it would be a shame not to see something like this developed in the near future. It's at times like this, I feel really   satisfied to see the DIY ethos of the bouldering fraternity coming forth. Personally, I'd be happy to assist as part of a project to do this, but like everyone, am unable to fully commit to precise deadlines. Ideally what's needed I suppose, is for one totally commited individual to step forward and declare their willingness to manage a group of people. Practically, I have no idea.
Interesting to see what comes of this.

[dave]

Shame you're disapearing on holiday Bonjoy. Maybe those Beardown boys could do the deed? Cofe, Dave, Kim are you listening? How about it?

I think we can nip that suggestion in the mofo-ing bud.

The problem with the peak is its got so much good climbing to be had that no-one has got any time to be sat writing a website about it. Its all very well developing a website to kill some time if you're stuck up in somewhere like yorkshire or the lakes, but it ain't on my to-do list.