[Palomides]

Who's been trying to sandbag Frenchies with duff sequences???



From http://www.planetgrimpe.com/grimpeur.php?id=71


PS Look, no move tags!!

[r-man]

Looks about right for the sit-start.

[John Cooke]

Direct start or like R-man said sit down. Looks like an attempt at the direct start to me.

[Nigel]

I can't see what's duff about attempting to climb it using what are clearly the only dry holds on the face!

I would have jibed him if he was trying to reach the flake using the piss-wet smears on the traverse; as it is this crazy frog is making the best of a bad job. Although if I were him I'd dry the final jug. Bloody French. Phew, that feels better! Got there in the end.

[dave]

Direct start or like R-man said sit down. Looks like an attempt at the direct start to me.

on the direct you just step straight on, no other handholds used.

[Jim]

apart from the undercut with your RH to hold you on? 

[r-man]

apart from the undercut with your RH to hold you on? 

You don't need that. Think there are different methods. The easiest way I found was to step up quickly on right foot and get in balance using left toe to squeeze a shallow pocket/smear. Mind you, it's possible/probable that I'm missing something... Still haven't done the top bit yet either. Must go back before it gets too warm...

[Jim]

If you can do the direct without using any hands to stabalize/hold you on once your up then your are very gifted indeed unless your stood on 10 mats

[r-man]

Rubbish. Just stand up fast facing left. Might take a while to get the feel for it, but it's not that hard. Plus, there's a big fat sidepull up there, though I think it might be easier to reach that once you're in balance. Like I said, I haven't done the top yet... so not that gifted... 

Out of interest though, what's the sequence for using the undercut?

[Nigel]

I think if you re-read what Jim's saying he's making a joke. At least its not about double-fisting. Aaah no Jim 

For the direct you just step up on your left foot and catch the sidepull. The best start is between this and the start off the crack; you palm the scoop foothold with your right, use a mono notch with your left, and rock on to you left until you can get your right foot on and stand up. So brown its black.

[r-man]

Eh?

Bit confused now. If Jim's making a joke, it doesn't make a lot of sense - unless its a private joke between him and Dave...

What's the deal with the undercut, I've seen it used. Is this for the stepping on with left foot method?

[dave]

apart from the undercut with your RH to hold you on? 

if you mean the bottom of the sidepull that i use and that is used on the normal traverse-in method then yes you use that hold but as you already use it on the normal version its not an "other" handhold as i said, i.e. its not an additional handhold. hence when you do the direct you don't use an "other" handhold except the ones you use anyway in the normal version. hence the word "other", used in this case interchangably with "additional". capiche?

[cofe]

this thread is almost as good as the rocket man one.

i might be tempted to start another apple/orange debate with lovejoy at this rate.