[Rice Boy]

Can get right hand well over the top hold but sod all else.

Is it just a case of hitting the hold two handed or does going with right then quickly with left work?

Cheers for the help.

[jimbo]

as you say, go with right and then very fast with the left ! Think it is harder than it used to be.

[Bonjoy]

It lost a foothold

[Rice Boy]

Seemed ok yesterday.

Cheers.

[Bonjoy]

The foothold loss was quite a while ago. Well before the new bouldering guide, so I presume it's graded for it's present state.

[wannaclimb8a]

i did this while it was still a project,i may have actually done the first ascent! :
i had abiut 5 goes at doing it and kept hitting the hold with my right hand fine but kept stepping down on to the mat.i removed the mat and did it first go!!
if your using a mat try removing it to see if same happens for you.
this dyno is definately easier if your short



rich

[Bonjoy]

Rob Smith did the first ascent to my knowledge. Not sure of exact date but at least eight years ago.

[Scouse D]

I think it's easier since the foothold broke. It forces you to use a higher foothold (by about 1.5"), which is poorer than the original edge but works better.

[wannaclimb8a]

Rob Smith did the first ascent to my knowledge. Not sure of exact date but at least eight years ago.

yeah from what i heard he did it the same weekend i did it but dont know which day we both did it on.ive done the first accents of a few routes at burbage north and not reported em so wouldnt have with this either.

its a good problem though,think about 6 tries for me to do it.gets font 7b+ as far as ive heard but dont think its that hard tbh,maybe 7b.

[a dense loner]

it's harder than it was and it's 7b+

[wannaclimb8a]

it's harder than it was and it's 7b+

will have to go back and do it again then but im pretty sure i used the high foothold rather than the good edge that broke :wink:


rich

[a dense loner]

i used the higher edge as well, but it is harder than it was and it is 7b+ :wink:

[wannaclimb8a]

so what else has changed on it other than the foothold?if the rest is still the same i.e. the handholds then its not gonna be any harder than when i first did it!!!!


rich

[a dense loner]

no, it will be the same grade if you used the same holds. but since i did it the other week and thought it was 7b+ and strangely the guide concurred i just thought it was 7b+. even more strangely kes did it about 12 yrs ago

[wannaclimb8a]

lolol so its 7b+ cos the guide and you say it is then?
will stick with my previous thought then of easy to moderate 7b cos i found it easy



rich

[a dense loner]

good cos whats actually happened is i thought it was 7b+, you think it was 7b. the foothold has still broke. it has already been established that this prob is easier for the small, you have admitted to being small, i am not small. what is this nonsense about if i and the guide say it is a grade then it must be that, conversely you are saying it's 7b so it must be that. you didn't do the first ascent by a long way as i have pointed out. you seem very humble not to have reported all your first new route ascents, have you checked the new guide and agree with the grades that the repeat ascentionists gave?

[james]

you have admitted to being small, i am not small, except where it counts.

As always, argument settled by tried and tested methods 

[wannaclimb8a]

hahahaha so it was ok for you to say it was definately 7b+ but you throw a hissy fit when i say its 7b?
like i said i couldnt care less about mine being the first ascent,honestly it really doesnt interest me.i climb for the fun of it not for admiration from other people or to gain peers!!!
i agree the problem is easier if you are short but there dont seem to be a seperate grade for problems which are easier for the tall which tends to me most problems!!!
you missinterpret my jesting as an attack on you,lighten up!




rich

[cofe]

this thread is genius.

[Dude]

  And highly amusing!

[a dense loner]

i am light. all i have pointed out all the way along is a hold has broke, it is harder than it was and i think it's 7b+. conversly you come on here n in a veiled way tell everyone it's really your prob n it's 7b. when you said you thought it was 7b cos it was easy at no point did i say i thought it was hard, just harder for the tall

james that's genius :D

[wannaclimb8a]

  at veiled way of saying its mine.i never said that if you read all my posts on the matter you will see that! ;)plus since when does making the first ascent of a problem give you any right to it or special significence apart from maybe getting your name in print which tbh doesnt really bother me as i climb for fun
and on the harder for the tall thing,why should it be graded harder for tall people when shorties have to put up with problems being undergraded for them all the time ???
infact dont answer cos it getting to be a boring subject now


rich

[saltbeef]

oy shorty. i spoke to the robinator about this... what do you base the idea that you did this on the same weekend as he did? i don't think he even knows for sure.

[Nigel]

Hang on, something fishy's afoot here. This guy is claiming to have done Rocket Man at the same time as Rob, which Bonjoy says is eight years ago. Reading his posts and having a guess at his age, that makes him 5 years old at the time of the FA. 

I agree with Cofe - this thread is genius.

[Soxs]

Hang on, something fishy's afoot here. This guy is claiming to have done Rocket Man at the same time as Rob, which Bonjoy says is eight years ago. Reading his posts and having a guess at his age, that makes him 5 years old at the time of the FA. 

I agree with Cofe - this thread is genius.

Smells like trout to me. ???