[Bonjoy]

Here's a bit of a round up from the last few weeks.

About a month ago now Kim Thompson added a new problem at Froggat.

Lankaster Bomber – 7c – Climbs the rib and wall just right of the 6b+/6c roof and runnel, on the Spinechiller buttress (the slabby block up against the crag between the great slab and Brown's Eliminate). Kim blatantly lanked the move, being able to reach a tiny crimp with his right foot on a large foothold. Anyone shorter (most people) will have to slap for this tiny but positive hold, or make a wild move all the way to the jug. In reality it's probably 7b if you can reach the edge or 7c+ if you can't. It's not had a repeat yet anyway.
LB marked with red line. The line to the left is the roof and runnel and the line to the right is a crimpy 6bish wall, both of these are in Ru's guide.




Last week I did a couple of new things at Curbar. Both are about 60m right of the buttress with Slackers on. Below the edge on a couple of boulders, one stacked atop the other. The upper boulder forms a fair size roof.

Bruno Mindhorn - 7b - Start in the middle of the roof on the obvious jug, out to crack on arete via blunt flakes and heel hooks. Good problem, but awkward landing (ask Nigel )

Break Out the Trumpets - 6c+/7a - The overhanging arete of the lower block on it's steep side. Nice cross onto a broad pinch to start and a bit of a slap to finish


Bruno Mindhorn in the rain.


And then this weekend, between showers, another one, this time courtesy of Joe L'Sage, at Robin Hood's Stride. One I'd cleaned up, but couldn't manage.

Slap Bass Odyssey – 7b -  On the big green north side of the Boysen's Crack boulder. Ru's guide mentions a rightward trending 6c starting up a thin seam. SBO climbs the seam then steps left onto and up the blunt rib, before making a looong stretch for the sloping topout.
 Despite failing to make the final reach, it felt like a brilliant problem all the same. There are plenty of alt footholds for slab types and I'm sure it's possible for all heights (with better footwork than me). I'll post some photos later.

 On the grapevine i've heard that Simon Wilson did a class new 7a(?) thing somewhere at the left end of curbar and Tony Simpson did a new one at eatswood just left of the tree growing out the rock at the RH end of the main bouldering buttress.

[Scouse D]

Si Wilson's thing is on a narrow wall right of (and perpendicular to) the Art of White Hat Wearing (or whatever it's called). Me and Dave tried it once but Dave pulled a hold off it and we never quite did it. Couple of crimpy moves, high Right foot rockovery move into poor LH undercut in overlap the build feet up and go RH to good flatty jug high up, nice moves. Think Si gave it V7.

[Scouse D]

P.S Dave pulled the hold off BEFORE the first ascent so we havn't fucked it or owt.

[jimbo]

Broken holds....scouse in the area....sounds familiar. Bit underhand to blame it on Dave though!

[Scouse D]

To be honest I probably weakened it for him, like the lid of a jam jar. Dave wouldn't be capable by himself.

[Greg C]

That "Bruno Mindhorn" problem looks class, nice work mopping that one up Jon Boy!

but awkward landing (ask Nigel  )

I can't believe your insinuating Nige caused himself a mischief whilst out climbing... he's usually so lucky  :wink: .

[Bonjoy]

Tah. He was off headfirst down the slope, but I managed to grab a leg just in the nick of time.

Here's the face with Slap Bass Odyssey on.

Yellow - 6b+ish prob (mentioned in guide), finishing up LH side of arete.
Blue - Zaf's Mantle - 6c+/7a Spooky mantle. V good.
Red - SBO

[Bonjoy]

Joe on Slap Bass Odyssey.



End of day rainbow.

[cofe]

Slap Bass Odyssey.

aaahhh. i know it. excellent.

[Fj]

On a similar note, done a couple of "new" problems recently.
They're over the back of the secret garden. To find them walk from secret garden to walnut whip/fireball block then keep going on the same line trending right a bit.
Both problems had been cleaned so will have been done before, but I've never heard anything of them.
The first is a rock-over from a finger jug, heel on, sloper then go again to the top. I recon about 7a, but morpho.  


The second is on a big block further along the crag heading toward the end of owler tor. It climbs the left arete using some pock marks and slopers. The rocks a bit crumbly so be careful. "First ascent" by Tom Greenall who called it The talented Mr Kipling. Also maybe 7a?
Theres also a mantel to the right but the rocks like cake.

Worth a look.

[dave]

Broken holds....scouse in the area....sounds familiar. Bit underhand to blame it on Dave though!

scouse couldn't have pulled that hold off if he'd have wanted to. he just ain't got the steez. I eat pieces of shit like that for breakfast.

[fashionguru]

Hi all.

Did not post this as a new problem as I still do not know if it is.

Anyway some of you may be able to tell me.

It takes the overhanging wall just left of the dead/dying tree as John said.

It starts on the ramp right hand in a good pock mark and left hand up on the arete. Then via the arete/rising ramp with left and the crack as a layaway with the right get your feet high and slap for a good flake high right and pull over the lip after controlling the swing.

A couple of pads and spotters are welcome.

Dont know the grade as I have a pritty bad finger injury but think somewhere around V5/6 just because of the height and landing.

Tony

[Bonjoy]

On a similar note, done a couple of "new" problems recently.
They're over the back of the secret garden. To find them walk from secret garden to walnut whip/fireball block then keep going on the same line trending right a bit.
Both problems had been cleaned so will have been done before, but I've never heard anything of them.
The first is a rock-over from a finger jug, heel on, sloper then go again to the top. I recon about 7a, but morpho.  


The second is on a big block further along the crag heading toward the end of owler tor. It climbs the left arete using some pock marks and slopers. The rocks a bit crumbly so be careful. "First ascent" by Tom Greenall who called it The talented Mr Kipling. Also maybe 7a?
Theres also a mantel to the right but the rocks like cake.

Worth a look.

 Kim Thompson did the latter one about a year ago. He called it Hare's Ear and also thought 7a.
 We did spot the other line pictured on the same day and Kim might have done this too, if it was brushed. I'll ask him this weekend.

[Johnny Brown]

Tried that slap bass ting years back, couldn't top out due to tree. Has tree gone or been trimmed?

[Fiend]

A couple of pads and spotters are welcome.

Dont know the grade as I have a pritty bad finger injury but think somewhere around V5/6 just because of the height and landing.

Tony

Definitely all about having the right spotter  :wink:  Hi, BTW.



P.S. And the problems just keep on coming eh....SBO looks class...

[Bonjoy]

Tried that slap bass ting years back, couldn't top out due to tree. Has tree gone or been trimmed?

 We tied a low branch back with a chalk bag string. There was a twiggy branch at the top but it wasn't a problem apart from it tended to pull your beanie off. It looked like the tree has grown out of the way a bit, as the branch which had been rubbed flat was no longer up against the rock.

 The branch in the foreground is the one with the rubbed patch and doesn't interfere with the topout.

[saltbeef]

hang on, that isn't hard bannisters/total recoil/stupor man...(delete as applicable!)

[unclesomebody]

and where has he hidden that weightbelt???

[saltbeef]

think the tree is masquerading as resistance.

[The Sausage]

...that joker can't climb 7b...