The only reason no-one says anything in your social circle is because they've gotten used to the vastness of the E6 grade and/or because they daren't rock the macho boat
i feel like i have finally self-actualised.
Quotei feel like i have finally self-actualised.And people say discussions about grades are a waste of time!!!
Quote Care to share some of the vast list that illustrates the point?I tried to make this point two years ago in a pro sport grade argument. Now I think the range is even wider. not really including sport routes, maybe I'm stretching the point inculding mixed ethic routes, but you get E6s with a wide range of climbing on them. Ranging from misgraded ones with F5+ climbing, right up to rarely repeated never onsighted ones with 7c+ climbing. I know what type I've done one of. People seem to think there's nothing wrong with British trad grades because you can grade accurately OK with them. I would contend that you can indeed easily grade accurately with them precisely because there's such an enormous error margin. I just wanted to run it out on hard but doable moves on gear, and I don't think it's unreasonable to ask how hard the climbing is before you onsight something close to your red point limit. Everyone enjoyed disagreed whole heartedly with me for daring to suggest our fine system that confuses foreigners is less than wonderful. But I think the point is that you should just fucking get on routes (or boulder problems) and see. The really bold routes are reasonably obvious. And personally if I can't trust my trad skills when they're as good as everyone else and better by far than most people I've climbed with (speed's the issue though) then my desired knarly onsight is never going to happen anyway.
Care to share some of the vast list that illustrates the point?
we've currently got a post-modern anti-macho thing going down in the peak
You then cleverly parry with a similar list, but this time for E5s or E7s, weakening the uniqueness of the E6 position.We then carry on bickering in increasingly entrenched positions, until one of us remembers that it's not raining and the crags are dry outside...
Quote from: "Mr.Burns"Quotei feel like i have finally self-actualised.And people say discussions about grades are a waste of time!!!people do say discussions about grades are a waste of time. Not sure where Rogers stood on this though.
greg: hi guidebook writer, yeh been doin loads recently, not seen anyone for ages. wanted to do all the lines on this 4 foot boulder before i told anyone about it, it's a 2 day walk-in but well worth it. but yeh i felt that (insert prob name here) is a pretty hard V8, certainly not V9. oh while we're at it i've done all the V8+s, may as well give you a round up of them now we're here. i know nigella's done most of them. give her a quick bell n see what she thinks, here's her number
7 pages and still going.
It'll be Almscliff or Woodhouse.Angel Face is only Font 7b+ now, because some cheating bastard (Pete Robins If I remember rightly) dug out some new footholds. My original method was pretty hard, probably 7cish.The Sheriff is only 7b (it's at least 2 grades easier than N Wales V9s that I've done, such as Rock Atrocity). I must have had flu when I did it.Grape Strain is pretty hard - so maybe that is Font 7b+, but I doubt it is Font 7c.Top Cat Traverse is described incorrectly in the guide - I (and everybody else who repeated it at the time) kept traversing low past a very polished sloper to gain a crack on the left. I've no idea if this is 7c or 7b+ (or even 7a+!) - I haven't been near it for over 10 years.Let's face it there is a load of gross over grading in the YGB book. The Keel at V10/7c+!!! Surely 7b/+?Anyway, Webbo - which one was it?
