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V8+ - A whole new issue... (Read 14126 times)

moose

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#100 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 21, 2005, 12:01:14 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
word to that, the sherrif, v9 or font 7a+. quite tricky to work out how to do it but after that its a path. still haven't done the direct on it mind....


The Sheriff's only font 7a+? That's around V7/8 isn't it?  Might have to give it a whittling on my next  broken-glass dodging trip to t'Scar.  Haven't been there for a while as there seemed to be a bit of a dearth of nice V7ish things to aim for (aside from a few Clingen butress eliminates).  Mind you it's not the grade that really put me off the Sheriff... more the incredibly, deep, dark, possibly goblin infested depths under that roof....(and watching The Descent has put me right off potholing).

webbo

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#101 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 21, 2005, 01:54:13 pm
there are two v7s and two v6s [guide book grades] on cave buttress.which as you enjoy crawling into caves you'll love.

moose

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#102 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 21, 2005, 03:00:19 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
there are two v7s and two v6s [guide book grades] on cave buttress.which as you enjoy crawling into caves you'll love.


think i've done the V6s (and maybe one of the V7's) - vaguely recall several variants along the lines of a pelvis-shattering sit-start leading to a rock-over / mantel at the lip from pockets.  The V7 traverse (along the lip, from right to left) looked interesting too -though I couldn't tell which hold the guide said I was meant to eliminate.   There's no comparison with The Sheriff though - I'll need a head-torch for that.

webbo

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#103 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 23, 2005, 08:49:28 am
for the v7 lip traverse i think the slot you avoid is the one on the v6.

webbo

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#104 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 23, 2005, 12:41:04 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
word to that, the sherrif, v9 or font 7a+. quite tricky to work out how to do it but after that its a path. still haven't done the direct on it mind....


found this on the woodhouse beta thread.

Quote
not done angel face,did'nt make it down to cligen face,too tired after doing the sheriff 30 times[kept falling off last move :x i.e.easy slap for top from arete


some path. :wink:

james

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#105 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 23, 2005, 05:49:19 pm
to be a good liar you must first have a good memory

Jim

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#106 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 23, 2005, 07:49:57 pm
genius. must've been the return visit that I kept pathing it. like I said tho,after I had done it for the 1st time, it was ok

Jim

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#107 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 23, 2005, 08:16:44 pm
anyway keenus. go get that van fixed. you ain't got time to be abusing me on t'interweb. go get some big numbers yo

a dense loner

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#108 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 29, 2005, 06:01:33 pm
my mistake, i have done a couple of posts using the pseudonim "james". he was automatically logged in. i will let you off you did keep pathing it after the 300+ goes. it is a really good prob.

what happens for the left version, i don't understand? can you shed any light panto, anyone?

Pantontino

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#109 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 30, 2005, 12:27:14 am
I haven't done the left hand finish, but I did try it when I did the original. If I remember rightly you switch on the sloping crack holds and layaway up to an obvious edge out left then lock this for the top.

Swanny did the first ascent - about the same grade, i.e. 7bish

a dense loner

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#110 V8+ - A whole new issue...
September 30, 2005, 05:34:39 pm
nice, that's what we were thinkin but couldn't decide. will get on it next summer

 

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