[Jim]

you also need something to wave!

[saltbeef]

choad's are dificult to wave, being wider than they are long

[a dense loner]

genius, i'd forgot about that

[Jim]

amazing, so had I

[Duma]

right, avoiding any waving of anything...

x(V) = 2.25x(E)

[dom]

right, avoiding any waving of anything...

x(V) = 2.25x(E)

shouldn't that be the other way round.  according to that equation i should be climbing E11's
i think this equation works better
Vx = E .5x

unless your saying you climb V4 and E9 which would be some feat.

[Duma]

no it shouldn't be the other way round:

I climb V9 hence x(V)=9
solving for x(E)...
9 = 2.25x(E) or x(E) = 9/2.25 = 4

your 'quation gives:

9 = 0.5x(E) or x(E) = 2*9 = 18!!!

[dom]

ach, i'm too tired to try and figure it out.
your probably right, i never was good at algebra.

[nik at work]

My ratio can be expressed as:
E(x):V(3x/2)

Curiously this ratio seems to remain pretty constant whatever grade I am currently climbing at.

[a dense loner]

am i being daft? maths a little rusty but... if you boulder V11, then you climb E16 1?2 or am i just a total mong?

[nik at work]

What I meant was my V grade is one and a half times my E grade. Which I think is what I wrote.

I.e. for a given route grade E(x), my bouldering V grade is given by x multiplied by three and then divided by two (3x/2)

Worked Example.

Q. Trevor climbs E6 routes, what grade would he boulder if he was Nik at work?
A. 3x6 = 18
    18/2 = 9
Therefore Trevor would boulder at V9 if he was Nik at work.

Is that any clearer?

One of us is being a mong, I just can't quite be definite which one  

[Pantontino]

E7/8

7.5 x 3= 22 divided by 2= V11

Get it now?

[squeek]

What I meant was my V grade is one and a half times my E grade.

You're allowed to use real numbers in equations not just integers.
How about :  V = 1.5E

Too many brackets and 'x's in all your equations you're all making it more complicated than it needs to be.  Are you all managers?  

[a dense loner]

my way using the usual newtonian laws
E(x):V(3x/2)
already knowing that you have at least bouldered V11
(3*11/2 = 33/2 =16.5)
we just have too many x's. squeek's right, he must be a labourer to come up with that logic

[dave]

is there a similarly hilarious relationship between best font grade bouldered and best french grade sportclimbed? suppose its only really going to work for people who've done a fair bit of both.

[cowboyhat]

Despite utter incredulity v= 1.5e more or less works for me...

[r-man]

Doesn't work for me, I think cos it was a long time ago since I was going through the lets-see-how-hard-I-can-lead phase, and this equation works out your V grade assuming you are leading at your max - it takes your leading ability as the staring point. For a more boulderer focused equation, you need summat that tells you what E grade you would be leading if you pushed yourself, so reversing the equation makes more sense:

V/1.5 = E

I know this was simple enough to do anyway, but hey. But hey.

[nik at work]

my way using the usual newtonian laws
E(x):V(3x/2)
already knowing that you have at least bouldered V11
(3*11/2 = 33/2 =16.5)
we just have too many x's. squeek's right, he must be a labourer to come up with that logic

If I have bouldered V11 then 3x/2 = 11 (given by V(3x/2)).

You seem to have misunderstood my statement. It represents a ratio of the two values, not an equivalence. Essentially for a given lead grade x, the bouldering grade would be given by the formula:
bouldering grade = 3x/2

We do not have too many x's we have exactly the right amount of x's. If there was only one x then one of the grades would either have to be (a) a constant or (b) another unrelated unknown. We can do it that way if you want. I boulder Vy and climb Ex so my ratio of E-grade to V-grade is shown by:
x:y
But it doesn't really tell you that much.

Please tell me you understand now or the mongometer is going to see a mighty densewards swing I fear  ...

P.S. Squeek, yes there are unneccessary brakets shown but in this case I feel they tends to make the meaning clearer. I apologise if they have confused you. Maybe a sit down in a darkened room would help

[squeek]

P.S. Squeek, yes there are unneccessary brakets shown but in this case I feel they tends to make the meaning clearer. I apologise if they have confused you. Maybe a sit down in a darkened room would help

I sit down in a darkened room 9-5 Mon-Fri and it doesn't seem to have helped me very much so far.  

(and V = 1.5E is the clearest meaning )

[nik at work]

V=1.5E

<pedantry>
Whilst given the context this does seem pretty clear, I would say it is wrong.
V does not equal 1.5E

In fact V and E bear very little relation to each other (beyond being related to climbing). Also neither V or E themselves have a numerical value. E represent extreme and V, if I remember correctly is for vermin.
So Vermin = 1.5(Extreme) ?

I assume this is some kind of letters for numbers substitution problem which is pressumably immpossible as extreme contains more letters than vermin.

Also this equation contains several unknowns whereas mine contained only one (x) and so was simpler. So in summary...
</pedantry>

...yeah I suppose your way was best.

[Johnny Brown]

Surely the overlooked question is.... are you all counting your cheating headpoints as your big E-number? Or are you scoring based on a proper lead?

[Duma]

my (not so) big E-number is the same for onsight and worked  -  this may have something to do with my 2.25 ratio, I'd be well chuffed with the 1.5 being quoted ( having said that, if I could make it 3 I'd be even happier)

[dave]

Surely the overlooked question is.... are you all counting your cheating headpoints as your big E-number? Or are you scoring based on a proper lead?

I agree proper leads only should count - but then we'd have to count boulder problems done in the same fashion, i.e. ground up, no pulling on half way up to check the holds/try the moves, no redpoint ascents etc. I'm sure that rules out anyone who's hardest problem was staminaband for example.

Maybe thats the next big thing in bouldering - ground up ascents of redpoint problems.  :shock:

[Dave Westlake]

surely headpoint ascents should count, as otherwise youre comparing worked boulder grades with onsight route grades- different things

headpoint grade/ boulder grade is comparing like with like.

although it does disadvantage people whove never done any headpointing (like me!)

maybe onsight boulder/onsight route would be better, although im not sure i know what the hardest problem ive onsighted is- i tend to work boulderproblems more, like, i imagine, most people.

[Bonjoy]

Although I always go for the onsight on trad and usually go for the onsight on sport routes, I never really bother to try hard to flash/onsight boulder probs. First off I'd rather not trash my arms / skin or risk injury (more likely to happen on a prob than a route). Secondly I can't be arsed, cos it just seems like applying an inappropriate route/comp logic to bouldering. I'd rather climb something well on the third try than scratch and scrape up it on the flash. Bouldering has nothing to do with onsighting hard probs in my world.