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V grades and E grades (Read 10181 times)

dom

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V grades and E grades
May 05, 2005, 08:11:52 pm
Yo, so i was thinking about grades today.  just wondering what the best grades that people have done and the biggest diffesrence in grades are.  i reckon from people i've talked to, generally their best V grade is twice that of their best E grade, ie someone can climb E3 and V6.  I climbed my first E5 yesterday, a 15m E5 6a solo, which scared the shit out of me.  But thinking about it my hardest V grade on rock is probably only V5, the font 7a's i thought i've done have been downgraded.  is there anyone out there that can match or beat me, ie best grades V2 and E2 or V7 and E7 etc.  or is there anyone out there at the other end of the scale, like have done a V10 but only managed E1?  wonder what the biggest discrepancy in grades is here.  there must be some pretty strong but wimpy boulderers out there.

dave

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#1 V grades and E grades
May 05, 2005, 09:20:43 pm
V9 E5? i recon theres a lot of wiggaz got those stats.

Mr.Burns

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#2 V grades and E grades
May 05, 2005, 09:50:40 pm
V11 and E6, although the E6 was a couple of years ago and the hardest thing I had lead before that was E1! but Im only Phyced for bouldering at the mo.

sharkey

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#3 V grades and E grades
May 05, 2005, 10:14:18 pm
Just out of curiosity which E5 6a was it, a wild guess the overhanging prow at Cummingston ?.

dom

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#4 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:07:31 am
Good guess, but not correct.  Thats on my summer ticklist.  I soloed Nijinsky a three star classic E5 at Auchinstarry Quarry.  It was on the cover of the last Lowland Outcrops.  There is marginal gear on it (fidly RP's) but i decided to bypass that and just go for the solo.
Its amazing how your trad grade can increase once you sort out your head, up until about a month ago my best lead was E1, recently i've been shooting up through the grades.  
Also i think i probably have done harder problems than V5, its just that north of the border we don't give our grades away too easily.

Stubbs

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#5 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 08:31:31 am
Bouldered V8, only lead E1, guess that puts me in the wimpy but (not very) strong section. Intend to push my trad grade this summer after spending some time on the slimestone developing a bit of stamina.

squeek

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#6 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 09:23:51 am
V7 versus a handful of HVSs.  If I ever get round to doing some trad my grade will probably increase, although I'm hoping to push my bouldering grade a couple of notches too.

grimer

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#7 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 11:16:47 am
Ha ha ha. Beat you. E8 and V8. The E8s were headpointed, but in my defence, the V8 took longer.

I've done Nijinski. I thought the RPs were good?

dom

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#8 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 11:43:51 am
E8 and V8! Fucking good effort.
I suppose the RP's would be ok, but i only own 1, and a handful of micronuts, i didn't fancy hanging around at that height trying to place them.  i just wanted to hurry the fuck up and get up and off it.  Quality climb tho.

moose

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#9 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 11:52:48 am
Quote from: "squeek"
V7 versus a handful of HVSs.  If I ever get round to doing some trad my grade will probably increase, although I'm hoping to push my bouldering grade a couple of notches too.


Similar - done a few V6s (and V7s that will be downgraded etc), but trad-wise HVSs are the limits of my achievement (not including a few V1/2 boulder problems where I forgot my mat and gained an almighty E1 tick).  

The act of tying-on and racking-up just turns me into a fearful weakling with no self-confidence.  Although a complete lack of stamina doesn't help - I seem to be able to cling onto rock for a maximum of about 4 moves - whether those moves are UK 6b or 4c doesn't seem to matter! (something to do with overly recruited muscles and overgripping I suspect).

SA Chris

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#10 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:00:56 pm
E3 vs V5, although the V5 probably took me a lot longer cumulitively than the E3s and E2s I have done. Was chatting to a mate, and I reckon I have done over 50 HVS on grit alone. The act of tying in bothers me less than trying a boulder problem for more than 10 goes, as my strength drains away.

webbo

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#11 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:33:35 pm
v8 and e5 although i have not done a route out side for about 10 years.when i did most the stuff graded e5 i could probably only boulder v5.
mind most of the e5s were graded e4 then.

JR

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#12 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:40:21 pm
ground up E7 and a very dubious V10. But probably more like V8.

I'm shit at bouldering generally though...

Falling Down

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#13 Re: V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:58:37 pm
I can't really do V grades, but my hardest probs have been Font 7a+ and I've done a few E4's... so you can conclude I'm not very strong or bold either !

cofe

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#14 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 12:58:43 pm
if you've done v10 then i'm david hasselhoff.  :wink:

of course i've done several V10's due to numerous grading inaccuracies...

dave

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#15 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 01:28:28 pm
yorkshire V10s don't count boys.

andy_e

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#16 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 01:32:50 pm
E1 and V4... but i hardly know what one of those stringy things is, otherwise E3 and V4

cofe

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#17 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 01:42:43 pm
dave dave dave. i've done wildly graded problems in the peak too don't you know.

Graeme

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#18 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 02:11:24 pm
V7 and E2, but I don't do routes, so I suspect that may be a little different these days, V7 and Vdiff :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

account_inactive

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#19 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 02:58:23 pm
V10 and E7, though the E7 was in my youth and I don't go near trad anymore since the accident :(

hongkongstuey

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#20 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 03:16:22 pm
E7 and V7

saltbeef

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#21 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 04:04:49 pm
have a look at these guys! should rename this thread willy waving!

a dense loner

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#22 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 04:23:38 pm
you're not a moderator so you can't

saltbeef

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#23 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 04:25:51 pm
if only i could wield such lofty power!

a dense loner

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#24 V grades and E grades
May 06, 2005, 04:28:14 pm
and bear down with the same :wink:

 

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