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Big up to Simon for his recent pull-out feature in Climber :D

Lots of nice piccies and a sensible attitude to bouldering

Nice one mate

[Pantontino]

I won't take a bow just yet, I'm sure somebody'll find fault with it before the day is out. :roll:

But thanks for the for the recognition all the same. :

Trainspotters out there will notice that in the photo of Gaz Parry on Truth sds he has done the proper start, i.e. pull on with your right hand matched at the same height as the low left hand hold . Basically this means just squashing the lip of the overhang (see chalky smudge below his right arm). I only mention it because on Sunday I saw lots of people missing out the first move.
I did mention this in the original text for the guide, but for some reason it was chopped and the description ended up as a simple 'sds' when it went to print.
These sort of details matter you know, perhaps more than life and death itself...

...or do I just need to get out more often?

[Danny]

Panton, you are an evil man, you robbed a mate of his first V8 on Sunday.

Good effort on the guide tho :up: , looking at the gear section, you take massive amouts of kit out with you, probably more than I take for cragging.

As for truth sds, I take it the first moves the crux then?

And while we're on starts, where does the boneyard begin? I've been starting with left hand cupped on the slopey shelf/arete and right on the crimp out right, then slinging my right heel up, eventually reaching under my leg for the good hold on OY...

Ta

[Pantontino]

The first move is not the crux, but it does mean that your right hand is not perfectly set on the sloper, thus making the next move harder. Tell your mate he can still have the V8 tick - it was pretty warm on Sunday, so I'm sure it felt that hard.

Your description for the Boneyard start sounds correct, as long as you actually have to make a move into the holds on Skunk X. Is the landing dry at the moment?

[Danny]

Quality, you've probably made his year.

As for the boneyard, from the start I'm slapping into the sidepull on Skunk X, then bringing my left into the slopers before moving to OY... then I fall off...the landing isn't too boggy, its a two mat job though.

Cheers.

[Drew]

Thank you Panton! You've made my year  :mrgreen:

However I do want to go back and try it matching on the good hold on the left... but was considering heel hooking the jugs at the start of the standing version.

I might even try it the proper way. Heaven forbid!



Drew

[dave k]

The pull out guide inspired me to reluctantly part with my loose change in WHSmiths this morning. Only had 10 mins to look scan through it though. Did I notice that a box of ibuprofen was included in the picture, but not on the list of essentials? Was that intentional?

[Pantontino]

I felt uneasy about putting it in the list. I suppose I was just being prudish about the idea of promoting pain killer addiction.
Ray had no such qualms and placed the box right at the front of the photo.

Related to this: I did have a wierd experience this afternoon at Parisella's. When I got there my hip was hurting and I had a sore ring pulley on my right hand, so I did something I've never done before; I took some ibuprofen before a climbing session. I started warming up. After about 20 minutes I felt decidedly wierd, almost a tripped out feeling, and I broke into a cold sweat. I thought I was losing it, but remembered the ibuprofen I'd taken and reasoned that this was the cause of my strange turn. I guess its not designed to go with hard physical activity?

After about an hour and a half it wore off and I starting climbing well (in fact, did a new link: Dustkick into Flake Start/ Left Wall high finish).

Maybe it's because I don't normally take anti inflammatorys or pain killers - must have a low tolerance.

[mireeves]

Great peice Si

I am though that person with a problem with it. In particular what you put in you bag.

Two Towels! For the love of good, I only have two towels in the entire world. And now you want me to ruin both on a boggy hillside. One I could almost accept but two. How about trouser bottoms, and hands to dry boots.

Ibruprofen. This I liked but I think you should no that there are a lot better drugs for this sort of thing and I know the government are trying to ban in but anything with codine in it does a lot better job especially with the lightheadedness, especially with booze. Lets not forget Voltarol, slightly stronger group on the same brufen family, now available over the counter and in gel form for those homo erotic love ins them boulderers are so into.

Two pairs of boots, a great idea but think of the poor kid, you know the one who was always at school with a uniform falling apart, holes in thier shoes. How are they suppose to hold there head high at a crag if they don't have two pairs of shoes. Think of the ridicule they will all know face. 'look at piky pete with only one pair of rock shoes'.

Binorculars, I know some boulders in North Wales are exceptionally small but, even a man of your age should be able to see them. Only Katz needs them to see the top holds. Or are we back to perving on the dead fit girls who go climbing. Personally I use a Video Camera (20X Zoom) near TV quality and you can relive the moment in the comfort of your own bedroom.

You camera Ideas is good, but we all know the camera lies, that split second when you hold a position, captured for glory. Where as old faithfully Camcorder gives instant beta and proof that you did indeed do the problem. It can also be used to catch out those power dabs, power spotting and other mister meanors you point out in you cheating section. So when your mate finally does that elusive V9 you can have the satifaction of saying well your foot did touch down there look, better luck next time.

Oh yeh and next time you see Ray tell him from me that if he wants anymore tips on were to take photos from (Floppy on Karma Sutra Rip Off, mine of course is far better that that mickey mouse effort ray made) just to give me a call.

Anyway all in all a good piece, with a few minor points. If you would like my help ironing them out in future you know where to find me!!!

PS I will be in Scotland till you calm down!

[Drew]

Hear hear!!

I may not be that pikey pete with one pair of rock shoes with holes in (2 with holes in, 2 in good nick), but I do know a few. However they tend to be the one's who don't give a flying fuck what the other people at the crag/boulder field/Beacon think about them.

But good call about the video camera. They're a god-send!

Drew.

[dave]

i've always got at least 3 pair of rock shoes in bag - wouldn't be dressed right otherwise. have been known to go out with 4 pairs. once took 5 pairs to font.

[webbo]

pantonio.
you forgot to include the rubber mat to keep those heels dry on sit starts or the tarp to keep the mat dry.plus wheres your flask of black coffee for when you need something to perk you up.i also have some tubular elastic bandage for ankle protection for when the heel hooking turns nasty.

i'm with dave on the shoes.its like mats you can never have too many.

[SA Chris]

Did I notice that a box of ibuprofen was included in the picture, but not on the list of essentials? Was that intentional?

I though that was just included in the same way they put a matchbox next to photos of fish that have been caught, to give some scale?

As fot binoculars, I have a pair of plastic Jessops ones that cost a pound. Not the best optics in the world, but enought o see if a route/problem is in nick. And I dont give a toss if they get scratched or broken.

[saltbeef]

pantontino it's unlikely to be the ibuprofen that made you feel light headed, maye the cafeine in the tablet. A word of warning don't take ibuprofen or any nsaid without a full stomach or you'll get an ulcer. nice pull out, shame the rest of climber is junk! why can't there be a decent climbing mag, even the us mags are much worse than they used to be...

[dave]

is it just me or do most photos in Climber look like they've been absolutley murdered somehow?

[saltbeef]

yeah really flat. all the ones in the euro sport shots seem to have been appalingly framed, and just seem particularly uninspiring even if its the most photogenic crag you've ever seen. they always persist in having some lame vs action in some quarry in morpeth stuff that'll fill 12 pages too...

[dave]

but also it seems as theres loads of good photos that look like they've been ruined by the scanning or summert, hard to explain what i mean but they look really grainiey, not sharp, even thought the original photos probably were, and almost as iff all the black grains have seeped outward a  bit. basically climber blows, especially the mapcase and gaiter reviews.

[saltbeef]

mapcases are pretty tech now you know, think they may evven have gps on them. you wouldn't wana but the wrong one...

[Dave Flanagan]

I bought this months climber as I wanted to see Simon's bouldering supplement. Aside from reading the bouldering scene in the shops every month I haven't bought a mag for ages. I thought the mag was pretty ok, it is trying to please everybody at once an impossible task.

[saltbeef]

I think thats half the problem. climb, is now doing the same. hence they both suck. friction is the only thing doing anything fresh, but even then it's a bit small, and as my girlfirend commented for its size, etc you get free magazines that are higher spec eg vice. but it did hold my attention twice as long as climber and climb.

[dave]

Only danger with friction is if they go the route of having the same people writing articles each issue about which crag they went to this month. if they steer clear of that type of thing they should be good. However I suppose they can only publich articles that people actually write fr them - the moral is get writing articles people!

[sharkey]

Panto's pullout was the only bit that grabbed my attention, Climber just churns out the same old every month, whats the fixation with these DWS articles they all look the same, great to participate in i'm sure but how many photos  of Greshams torso can you look at?, and the feckin short hual/ sport climbing articles put me to sleep every time, have to agree Friction is a great grassroots effort, more of the same please.

[saltbeef]

i would write something, but i'm writing up an audit report on evidence based intensive care. the other difficulty is getting photos. i'd write a report about das krankenjura but seeing as i have about mediocre photos of meeksy eating cakes it ain't gonna be the best...

[saltbeef]

I think thats half the problem. climb, is now doing the same. hence they both suck. friction is the only thing doing anything fresh, but even then it's a bit small, and as my girlfirend commented for its size, etc you get free magazines that are higher spec eg vice. but it did hold my attention twice as long as climber and climb.

[Scouse D]

I ... suck... it's a bit small... as my girlfirend commented... you get...twice as long.

This quote tool is fun