[petje]

what french grade would you grit experts give for mark's? and what for the problem left of that?

[dave]

The one left is about font 7a, and excellent. Not sure what its got in the new guide.

[petje]

7a sounds right, the way it felt. that makes mark's 7bish?

[dave]

dunno, i've never done marks - the only hard part is the horrible slopey-lock grovel finish, all the climbing up to that part is easier than the left hand problem.

[DrWong]

Dylan - how about your favourite TV show: "Desperate Housewives", alternatively "Wednesday Night Session @ The House of Power!" also has a nice ring to it.

petje - I am far from being a gritstone expert but F7b (v7) felt about right for Mark's Roof and F7a (v5) feels about right for the one just left.

[dave]

shirley you don't mean F grades? I see no bolts!  :wink:  :roll:

[DrWong]

sorry - by 'F' I meant Font - got lazy

[account_inactive]

What about Wong Woof?

I agree 7a and 7b and my ting 7c

Nice mix

[cowboyhat]

why not call it 'Dylan proves a point'...?
or 'Nice guide rupert but just wait here and listen to us while we pick holes in it'...?

[DrWong]

Nice bit of rock that - anymore lines to go? Is there any potential for a problem that starts at the 7a and finshes up mark's direct / dylan's prob?

[petje]

There is a combi going up mark's and down the left thing, and up mark's and so on.

what about: mark's up; left down; mark's up; finish with dylan's. theoretic 8a trav?

[account_inactive]

That would be the major link up 7c+?

[SA Chris]

Or call it Mark Question?

Although Mark Edwards has done "Mark" based names to death.

Please make him stop.

[petje]

Just so i am in this forum once again:

[Ru]

Sorry to be a pedant, but Dylan's thing is a right hand start to Mark's Roof direct, that may be how mark's roof direct was first climbed?

Is this right?

(Marks roof direct starts where the guy is on the shot and exits up the chalky holds above, just in case anyone is being as slow as I seem to be today)

[account_inactive]

That seems to be about right Ru. Different start and the finish without the jug of Mark's roof.  When was this claimed as I had to brush quite a bit of lichen of it to do it?

[Pantontino]

And to add further to the confusion:

"petje - I am far from being a gritstone expert but F7b (v7) felt about right for Mark's Roof and F7a (v5) feels about right for the one just left."

What's with the grade comparisons? I know this no longer matters in the Peak, especially as the grades in Ru's book are spot on for this roof (and of course everywhere else, with the possible exception, ahem, of, ahem, Boozy Traverse, ahem), but since when has 7a equated (albeit approximately) to V5, or 7b to V7? The only place I've ever seen those grade comparisons is in the OTE 'how to' series - and then I just assumed it was a proof reading error.

[Ru]

Don't know when Mark's Roof Direct was first done. I asked about a bit and several people said that they'd done things that exited the roof in that area, some claiming FAs and others not. In the end I didn't put an FA in, but if you had to clean a lot of stuff off, maybe you were the first??

In general getting the correct FA is really hard in the Peak as people like Ben and Jerry and lots of very talented others have been bouldering there for years. Some things get reported, others don't. Things get climbed in mistake for other things etc, and few can accurately remember when things were done.

I decided to put FAs in the guide, but as it had never been done before lots of stuff is probably open to debate and revision in the future.

[account_inactive]

Nay worries mate, its good enough for me to know that I did the first ascent.  From the look of the rock now and before I cleaned of all the shit I think it was the first ascent.

Now for the link up from Mark's left hand.................

[a dense loner]

have to agree with pantontino here, how many ceaseless crap grading debates have we had and dr wong still can't compare. must be the smog :wink:

[account_inactive]

It could be that fall he took at Siurana  :wink:

[webbo]

And to add further to the confusion:

"petje - I am far from being a gritstone expert but F7b (v7) felt about right for Mark's Roof and F7a (v5) feels about right for the one just left."

What's with the grade comparisons? I know this no longer matters in the Peak, especially as the grades in Ru's book are spot on for this roof (and of course everywhere else, with the possible exception, ahem, of, ahem, Boozy Traverse, ahem), but since when has 7a equated (albeit approximately) to V5, or 7b to V7? The only place I've ever seen those grade comparisons is in the OTE 'how to' series - and then I just assumed it was a proof reading error.

i was going to make some similar comments,but thought why bother there will another grumpy old man along in a minute to say something. :wink:

[DrWong]

What's with the grade comparisons? .....

Oops! seem to have inadvertently re-opened the old can-o-worms.

What I meant to say is that:

Font 7A = V6 = V5 (HAG)
Font 7B = V8 = V7 (HAG)

(where HAG = "Hardcore AUSTRALIAN Grades" cause we all know how solid and hardcore us Aussies are) :wink:

Seriously though, leaving the Font Grades and comparisons aside and using my own experience as reference, the left hand thing feels no more than V5 although I accept that Mark's roof itself could well be closer to V7/8 or V8.

These are just my grades, not "Dave's Grades", not the "real grades" or the "world grades".

must be the smog

more likely the unhealthy influence of hanging out with you crazy (grit)stoners.

[Jim]

I tried marks roof direct a couple of months ago and the slopers were proper dirty and really gritty. seems its not been done/tried for a while. I've not done marks roof yet cos I'm so fuckin knackered by the time I get to the lunging part. MR left end is a bit of a gift at 7a but a top problem.
may have to go here this afternoon as some other unfinished buisiness here as well although I don't recon dense will be keen

[Johnny Brown]