[fatneck]

What's the deal with this prob. Managed several harder probs in amazing conditions last friday, yet couldn't even get started on Bullworker. Do you start round to the right and then go for the sidepull or start on the sidepull and slap right?  :roll:

[cofe]

think you pull on wi LH sidepull and RH arete and throw R heel round. then keep slapping up wi RH. gets better higher up. innit.

[Rice Boy]

Similar situation meself. Had good fun holding R arete with right heel-hooking round corner, left on edge out left and popping for top. Didn't feel B5 but I'm tall n' all so?? Feck knows.

The B4 aretes (near by) R hand and L hand are super mega cool even with landings the way they are.

[Scouse D]

Cofe's beta is right. A man of your calibre should have no trouble now fatneck from what I've seen.

[fatneck]

Will prob be heading there again soon. Must try harder! Thanks for the info guys!

[Andy Harris]

The way I've always done it is hands on side pull & arete, then left foot into a very small pocket approx. 1m from the floor, pull on and slap. This was in the days before we had the sense to use our heels.  good luck.

There is also a traverse into the bullworker at a much harder grade. Start on the crimpy sit down problem round the left corner, upto the lip, right hand into bull worker sidepull then hard foot moves and match, snatch arete and finish up bullworker. Always written up as a project although I think Sean Myles did it at 7c/+.

[Bubba]

I use the Cofe beta too.

[andy bowie]

Ah Mr Harris - old proper peak beta - left toe in little dink high up on left and then wild slap with right. Proper man's way that.

[Falling Down]

Ah Mr Harris - old proper peak beta - left toe in little dink high up on left and then wild slap with right. Proper man's way that.

Is it just me or does this always feel like a piece of piss (like English 5b or V1 or someting)...  I recall it used to get 6c in old money and I always assumed that was from a sitter or a gnarly traverse...

[Andy Harris]

Bullworker always use to get english 6c and tended to be most peak based climbers 1st 6c. Clearly it wasn't ever that hard even with the original more slappy way, however this is significantly more burly than the heel hook method (another grade falls to the heel). I've always thought it was worthy of 6b (rather than 5?) beause it's quite pully.

It did however always start from standing. The traverse was written up as  a project and is incedentally bloody hard and I think easier for the short. Get to it.

[Sloper]

6b for the bullowrker, shirely shome mistake, pumpy 5c perhaps, even 6a if you've got no technique but 6b if bullworker is 6b where does that leave the rest of the 6b's in the peak?

[dave]

is this 5c for bullworker like 5c for early doors?

[Sloper]

early doors is 6a as any fule kno

[saltbeef]

pumpy 5c... as in it's about 2 moves, you're a stam lord!

[Rancid]

i cant reach the left hold and right at same time - full stretch and cant quite span... '5'3 short arse. have given up. anyone know someone my height do it:?

[tommytwotone]

i'm pretty short and used a combo of the betas metioned above - I can't get into the undercut with the RH, so...

LH on hold, LF on andy's small dink 1m off ground. RH on a slopey bit of arete and swing RF toe hook round arete that, depending on udging can be converted into a heel but you can get away with a toe. As Cofe says, RH gets better higher up.

nb - if you're gonna toe hook it watch your boots - have a big hole in the top of my right boot from this problem!

[Rancid]

with this beta would you say its harder than b6?
ive only ever done a handful of b5's so wanted to find a good b6 to work - sounds like i should wait till im solid b6 until i try?

recommend small friendly b6's in peak?

[tommytwotone]

nah, reckon it's pretty solid. It's really only the couple of first moves that are hard, once you're in a position to bump up the RH you shouldn't be in trouble.

as for small friendly stuff around b6...get stronger and learn to dyno or both!

seriously though, it took me ages to break through that barrier from B4/5 to B6/7 and I don't know what I did different apart from stop smoking and get more serious and focused.

I ain't found much that was easier cos of my (lack of) height, you might find the following amenable:

Technical Master, Millstone
Sly Stallone, Ramshaw (a good dyno-y prob for short people)
Remergence, Burbage North (a must - do!)
Pinch / arete thing on L of Remergence
Probs around Boeing(sp?), Eagle Tor
Heart Arete, Eagle Tor
The Egg, Cratcliffe
Tiger, Burbage South Boulders (one mover)
Crimpy wall up through Jerry's Traverse, Cratcliffe

Harder, but not height - restrictive:

Conan the Librarian, Mother Cap
7 - Ball, Burbage South Edge
Trackside, Curbar (I reckon loads easier if you're a bit short)
Crash and Gurn, Burbage South Boulders (a dyno that short folk can do!)
Slab on that big sqaure boulder at Robin Hood's Stride

and whatever you do, DON'T GET ON BANANA BLOODY FINGER SODDING DIRECT!

[Rancid]

cheers for that list i'll defo look into some of those. and i wont give up just yet on bullworker then.

yaeh seems to be a def plateaux for b4/5 to move to b6+ been stuck for years.
stopped smoking 6 months ago and im trying to get stronger/fitter.
think i need to start working b5's and b6's more as i tend to focus on the b4's and below mainly and have a few goes at stuff harder only to get disappointed fast or already have sore fingers etc when first trying after battering myslef on 'mygrade' stuff.

really phyched at the moment and feeling strong regardless of being a short arse im detirmed to get my first b6 this year.

[tommytwotone]

word - my experience precisely. Think the key is just deciding to take the step up and getting on some stuff.

The more I just started trying B6/7, the more I'd get close and then get it next time, or get stuck and then think about different beta...I've still got bags of projects in the Peak at this grade!

Also, I found climbing with people who were operating a few grades higher was a massive help.

At the time, my mates were rinsing B8 and above and I just climbed loads with them - firstly, you end up trying stuff you wouldn't usually bother with just cos you're with them, and secondly you can crib some sly beta off them if they've done the prob you're stuck on!

You will break through, and I reckon you'll be so surprised how much that jump up in grades is a self-belief rather than a power / reach / technique thing.

Keep the faith mate.

And I mean that in a Wigan Casino way, not a Bon Jovi way.