UKBouldering.com

The Good the Bad and the Beagle (Read 3777 times)

Fj

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 220
  • Karma: +7/-0
The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 06, 2004, 03:34:57 pm
Ok, I did this a while back, but ever since there has been debate as to what's in and what's out.

My method was to pull on use the sloper on the right, pull through to the small sloper up and left then delicately pull through for the slopey top-out.

Everyone else I know who's done it used the groove as a foothold.

My thoughts were this would be a slightly harder variation on the groove, but not be worth mentioning as a separate problem.

I'm not interested in what grades the different problems are , just what the original, or usual method of ascent is and which line the problem takes.

cheers

dave

  • Guest
#1 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 06, 2004, 03:54:42 pm
never tried it really - when you say groove for foothold what you you mean, the B5 groove? i would have thought that was "out".

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#2 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 06, 2004, 03:57:31 pm
Is this the one left of the classic groove problem? If so I didn't use the groove for hands or feet, clearly to do so would be cheating, not as good and not in the spirit of bouldering.
 Use of said dodgy beta might explain why this prob was only listed as 6c+ in the script for the new guide.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#3 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 06, 2004, 04:31:16 pm
I'll check the script tonight. When Patta saw this section there was lots of 'no no no, it's much easier than that if you do this'-ing, and several bits and bobs got downgraded. Can't remember what of the topof my head though

dave k

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 375
  • Karma: +7/-1
#4 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 07, 2004, 04:16:38 pm
My feet don't go near the groove. I can't remember the exact beta. it starts with a sharp crimp for both hands. Get your feet up. Go up with your left hand, then slap up with your right. Then I think I finshed with a slap up with the LH to the top. Good problem though. I can`t imagine how your feet would reach across to the groove though.

blockhead

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 79
  • Karma: +2/-0
#5 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 07, 2004, 07:57:50 pm
Seem to remember i sorta did use feet in the groove on this. Beta pretty much as Dave K above but when had hands on top did something like stick rt foot high on rounded top of right wall of groove and pressed off left shoulder somehow and mantled. To be honest it was a bit of a blur - always is!

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#6 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 07, 2004, 08:15:56 pm
You can only use your right foot constructively on the final mantle, where I can see it making the top out less fraught for people who aren't used to a 'pure' grit top out. Lower down its more effort than its worth to stick your foot over there!

Fj

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 220
  • Karma: +7/-0
#7 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 09, 2004, 11:59:39 am
So it takes the line to the left of the groove and isnt simply the the groove, minus using it as a handhold.

andy bowie

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +0/-0
#8 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 09, 2004, 04:22:20 pm
ya that's my recollection - its the line left of the groove as blockhead  and nigel describes

Soxs

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 86
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9 The Good the Bad and the Beagle
December 17, 2004, 08:56:54 pm
I use the start hold of the B5 for RF to get LF on starting crimp (kinda half bridge half egpytian) then swop feet and go for yit sloper with LH.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal