[ned]

i think its keep your left foot on the big hold, and rock up left like moffat does in hard grit...but i dont know.

[a dense loner]

well i stood about 20 feet from it last week n it looked ok from there. may be unsightly stood underneath though. at the end of the day it doesn't really matter what people say on the interweb tho

[clm]

voice of reason

[Jim]

whoever did it also glued the donkey lines back on it  

[Fiend]

For those who haven't seen it (i.e. me):



Might get a placeholder image if PF are being gay, hopefully works though.

[clm]

thats pretty fuckin ropey.  doesnt even look like itll hold body weight.
is there a groove along the line of the sika that could be filled with grit coloured resin?

[dave]

looks fairly solid in real life, or at least as solid as its going to get.

[a dense loner]

arrgh my eyes... that does look pretty bad but you can't tell from a bit away

[cowboyhat]

luckily that photo makes it look as bad as it actually is. And it is bad. really really shit. I have waited until i saw it myself to comment and now i'm just confused.

when i first heard the hold had broke i thought; damn, nevermind it will make for an interesting repeat. No doubt it will eventually be done as its such a classic line.
then comes all the talk of glueing it back on. conjecture i think. before i can even get down the wall to gossip i learn its been glued back on, while i was at work. you boys up there in sheffield have clearly got too much time on your hands. (could have been used for training for the first broken hold ascent of the joker...?)

I just want to know why?

Am i really ignorant? is there a precedent for glueing holds back on grit? the ethics are of course, this is climbing, grey. everyone knows that what is ok at Raven tor is not at the plantation. Yes people have used bolts in the past, even poff on grit. but I just don't get this. grit is friable, these things happen. please explain to me when and/or why it became the form to glue holds back on to classic lines at classic areas of classic gritstone crags?

And then once we've established that, everyone must concede that it looks shit, even if you believe it to be ethically sound.  when the flake on partian shot comes off will that get the same treatment?

[Fiend]

I think you've got a good point there cowboyhat, about this sneaking rapidly onto the grit with only climbonline.co.uk raising any complaints about it...

I dunno about hold gluing but I think this one is definitely an issue.

[dave]

I don't think it looks that bad, and at least you're not left with an unusable sandy mess which may well have eroded away in the future. the only really issue is like stu sez if it breaks off again cos the rock ain't strong enough to hold the glue.

anyway its not like there are no glued holds on grit. for example the undercut on mushin, the back of the pocket on small smart, and i'm sure those flakes on that boulder at the upper tier are glued.

ironically there probably more of a case for glueing holds back o grit than there is on limestone, as the new uncovered rock you'd be left with on grit is generally much more unstalbe than what you get on limestone. I mean what happens when the undercut on the nose snaps off, or the big flake on the green traverse, or that flake on the trackside boulder? is it better to climb on a fast-eroding sandy mess?

[cowboyhat]

ok dave, you´re making a case. much of this is about the wider issue of conservation under the weight of the exponential popularity of bouldering. Maybe this and similar issues came up with regards to limestone in the eighties...

and if so where is it leading...
as fiend said thngs sneak rapidly.

don´t use the mushin undercut as an example though. i´ve always hated it. looks like it was done by a keen plasterer who had formerly worked on the hoover dam.

apply question marks where relevent. my gay computer types fi instead.

[cofe]

the back of the pocket on small smart

when did the pocket snap off?

the rock is only sandy by experience, i.e. if you touch it. you don't pull on sandy holds generally cos they're rubbish so the defunct joker hold wouldn't have been used. was gluing the way - i doubt it. likewise the various flakes due to snap off - people will climb around them if they do. its too late now anyway - hopefully there will be a discussion (somewhere - bmc?, here?) about what to do next time.

[cowboyhat]

the back of the pocket on small smart

when did the pocket snap off?

the rock is only sandy by experience, i.e. if you touch it. you don't pull on sandy holds generally cos they're rubbish so the defunct joker hold wouldn't have been used. was gluing the way - i doubt it. likewise the various flakes due to snap off - people will climb around them if they do. its too late now anyway - hopefully there will be a discussion (somewhere - bmc?, here?) about what to do next time.

"hopefully there will be a discussion (somewhere - bmc?, here?) about what to do next time."
I can't work out this quote mechanism.
anyway. yes thats kind of what i wanted. maybe people are bored of this topic? should i start a new thread...?

[Johnny Brown]

I'm not sure that the BMC haven't got bigger fish to fry.

previous discussions have covered how to repair fast eroding footholds (vienna, Robin Hoods Stride)
Gluing of holds back on hasn't really been covered. I suspect it will always depend on the individual hold, i.e how vital is it? Will the glue be visible/ ugly? Obviously lime will always be less controversial as its falling apart anyway.

Personally I think in most cases the problem should be left to 'settle', i'e let peeps try and repeat it for a while, as in font following the chipping. In most cases I think it will just require a sequence refinement.
If they are to be glued back on then it should be done by someone who knows what they are doing.

[Mr.Burns]

Anyone know if its been tried since the hold was glued back? and is it going to be easier, harder or the same?

[cofe]

now i'm confused. do they have bigger fish not to fry or not? or indeed aren't you sure whether they have bigger fish to fry? next you'll be telling me there are unknown unknowns...

[dave]

if the ace/joker was at cuvier they'd have probably chipped a new top hold by now!

[cowboyhat]

ah, the 'if'.

[Johnny Brown]

The BMC have some very big fish, but no oil.