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Summer-suitable sport near Brive-la-Gaillarde to Clermont-Ferrand (mid-France) (Read 1088 times)

Fiend

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Bear with the specific locations here. A certain lady friend is staying for a week at Martel (30mins south of Brive-la-Gaillarde) and then two weeks at Merline (20 mins north-east of Ussel and 1 hour south-west from Clermont-Ferrand). She has invited me to pop out for a bit but recognises that I would like to do un petit peu du escalade of course.

Obviously it will be a trillion degrees and I'm not expecting great shakes - in fact I'm quite happy on local-ish minor crags if they have interesting rock - but a couple of mornings or afternoons pottering around in the shade on mid-sixes before lounging and infusing myself with local cheeses would be a nice.

Looking on UKC there seem to be a fair few crags near to the former location - Milhac, Pech Du Mont, Jugeals - Nazareth, Cornil and also bouldering at Carsac which sounds okay and gets evening shade. Ideally within an hour - obviously Saint Gery looks good but may be pushing it.

Near the latter I've seen Bort-Les-Orgues (which actually looks really interesting), err Chateauneuf which sounds bumbly, La Dent de la Rancune which is too far to walk, and the Saint-Floret area which doesn't sound great.

Obviously I need to do a bit more research investigating orientations, topos, pictures to inspire me, potential for finding partners etc etc, but any useful info would be appreciated, N.B. "Go to this world class crag tull of F7s that's 2 hours away" / "Don't bother just go and sunbathe and go for walks" don't count as useful info.





lagerstarfish

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I was about to gush on about a great party that I went to near Cahors, but have noticed that it is a couple of hours away.
That bit of France is surprisingly large compared to my mental map

jwi

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I was about to gush on about a great party that I went to near Cahors, but have noticed that it is a couple of hours away.
That bit of France is surprisingly large compared to my mental map

La diagonal du vide! https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empty_diagonal

tedj234

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In-Laws have a place in Carsac so I know the area pretty well. You can usually pick up the Sarlat guide and or Lot guides from local hypermarches or bookshops

Options:
Le Ceou - biggest crag in the area, good routes in 6s and 7s, some shady bits. Amazing, ice cold river on the walk out.

Cingle de Montfort - deep water soloing - it’s cool only 3 established routes but plenty more to go at

Carsac bouldering - limited but one outstanding roof problem and a couple of other good quality problems. Fairly rough sandstone.

Milhac - my favourite, small but high quality rock and routes. Great in 6s and 7s to low 8s. Really lovely setting. Roadside. Bit of a sun trap but I have climbed here in every season so it’s possible.

Pech du Mont - bit of a dusty backwater deep in the woods. Not great, dodgy bolting but it is north facing and shady.

Cougnaguet - quite remote, stays a bit cooler than the other crags, pretty cool setting and routes, I’ve only been here once so can’t give you full lowdown.

Fiend

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Very informative, thank you  :yes:

 

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