[Paz]

i've been wanting to do "the thing" at bowles ever since, as a wee tyke, i read martin boysen's article "confessions of a sandstone addict"

Won't your Braces get in the way on the required hardcore roof crack action?  Braces're better than belts in a warm climate, but here in blighty it's milder so we use belts, elastic, chalk bag strings or even harnesses.  

Also, do you mind, or doyou think anyone will notice, if I use the phrase `Choss Tosser' like I invented it?  

Cheers,

[bvb]

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[bvb]

Won't your Braces get in the way on the required hardcore roof crack action?  Braces're better than belts in a warm climate, but here in blighty it's milder so we use belts, elastic, chalk bag strings or even harnesses.  

Also, do you mind, or do you think anyone will notice, if I use the phrase `Choss Tosser' like I invented it?  

Cheers,

heavens -- braces actually increase your chances on toughguy roof problems -- they compress the power in your torso, much like a weightlifter's hefty waistbelt.  try it some time -- it really works! (see photographic illustrations below, pinched from my upcoming instructional manual, "braces for beginners".

besides, chicks dig 'em.  trust me on this.





as for the use the phrase "choss tosser" -- i think you're safe -- it's pretty much passed into the common man's climbing lexicon, much as have the terms "gnarly", "pumped", "a bit thin", "stfu", and so on.  refer to ian mcnaught davis's treatise "drop, plop, fly, or die" for more information.

seriously though, this is a problem i've been wanting to do since i was fourteen.  looks a little highball....so what is the current yds grade for the thing, anyhow?

[ian h]

"the thing" is middle of the road english tech 6b, as i think it has been for around the last 15 years

think it may have been given 6a in the old daniels guide , but not sure. will have a look when i get home.

i dont think anybody can call this a highball. way to high to fall from a roof at thirty foot onto your back :shock:

dont think it has been soloed yet but again could be wrong

i do know it was led once with a friend or two, placed i think in the base of the finger holds running out under the roof, :shock:

[Paz]

Kin ell, that looks superbly hideous.  

Superb stuff.  I'm going to start with the beard, then move on to beard and braces.  My Mum got me to get rid of my long hair( that I was hoping to use to go as Bono to the Bristol fancy dress bouldering comp), so I've started growing one by means of compensation.  So far I just look like an idiot who needs a shave.  

IanH, is it acceptable to lead on sandstone using knotted slings for pro, Czech style?  I'm coming over in February, is Bowles usually dry then, so I can (wait for it) Czech it out.

Looks good by British if maybe not by International standards:
[web]http://www.climb-guide.com/sand-data/database.php?areaidd=10[/web]

[ian h]

sorry no leading of any kind on sandstone

although there is one route which can be led which is temptation at bowles , which is just round the corner to "the thing" and  is also 6b.

quality route up a line of old aid bolts.

lucy creamer was top roping it on the cover of climber magazine the other month


oh the thing was origionaly given 6a back in the old daniells guide. just checked it out in my old guide.

[ian h]

a few pics off the sandstone website of the thing

http://www.zawn1.co.uk/southernsandstone/sand/slices/t9.jpg

http://www.zawn1.co.uk/southernsandstone/sand/slices/t11.jpg

http://www.zawn1.co.uk/southernsandstone/sand/slices/t14.jpg

[Bonjoy]

Carbide Finger at Bowles seemed a good hard roof crack.

[Paz]

Quality psyche material.  Is there actually any jamming on the Thing?  Any more suggestions including easier ones?  Apart from this one:

I've only really done HVSs (RF E1s) and a Font 6b, and generally manage to do as little roof climbing as possible.  
It looks like I can still satisfy my craving for roof cracks even though I can't get anyone to go down BoulderRuckle to belay me on them, or get their harnesss out of their bag on the Grit.  Ooh I'm so excited.

[ian h]

dunno what happened to the picks above ?

never tried carbide but is supposedly pretty hard, think it is probably regarded as the hardest roof on southen sandstone,  although some people might say "monkey things " is harder

as for roofs and jamming "the wreaker"  has to be the one i would have thought ?

or the much easier juanita is good , no need to jam it either

[bvb]

when (if) i hit the UK this summer, i am SO on this thing.  that shit looks sooooo dope.  luv roofs.



martin was the man.

[Fiend]

Paz man you need to get yourself on Teryn Roof Crack @ Cwm Dyli boulders beneath Snowdon, for the mid-grade roof crack enthusiast it is pure jamming sex.

[Fiend]

@ All the sandstone freaks...

Hit me with some more recommendations. Will be around for a couple of days over XMas and looking for shit to do if it's dry. Know the area like the back of my ballsac for routing but don't know much about the bouldering apart from Nicotine Alley which I virtually lived under one winter. Any other top tips for quality in the V3-6 range?? Or indeed anyone around and keen for some top-rope nonsense??

[ian h]

there is probably gonna be fuck all dry at the moment, we have had pretty mankey weather.

bowles is allways gonna be your best bet this time of year,

do you know the sloper problem on "bananna" ?