[TobyD]

Anyone know if this thing is proper hard, as the cocksmack guide implies, or is it alright really?

[Ru]

It's actually ok, especially in good conditions. Font 7c. The landing is a bit worrying, but if it were above a good landing it would be a trade route. Called Western Eyes.

[Bonjoy]

There is some good footage of it on that petzl roctrip vid Johnny Brown just posted a link to, on t'other thread.

[Johnny Brown]

I reckon 7c+ - its harder than, say, Brad Pit, and the sequence is much less obvious. Easier for the very tall tho.

[Jim]

and the landings not that bad, you always fall off inbetween the rocks (crux section - not sure if this applies to the top bit tho)

[Bonjoy]

But is it? Westie bagged WE's in about an hour, after throwing up on the way to the crag due to heavy night before, yet ain't done BP. Just imagine trying to do BP for the first time, if it had WE's landing, it would feel monster! The biggest thing holding me back, feels to be an inability to throw myself at the moves enough, due to fear of falling off badly onto the rock.

[Jim]

looks like you need to invest in a metolius XXL mat then Lovejoy

[dave]

yeah, i recon a 6'x4' sheet of piss poor foam draped over the rock will make all the difference! I'll throw a few tissues and old socks onto the pile anall.

[Bonjoy]

It's not the sort of landing where a bigger pad would help.

[Jim]

well it was quite good for a year but then started getting thin. Got a couple more layers of the white foam off westie in mine now and its DA BOMB :trout:

[Johnny Brown]

But is it? Westie bagged WE's in about an hour, after throwing up on the way to the crag due to heavy night before, yet ain't done BP.

Westie hasn't actually put that much time in on BP. Also, it's hard to quantify it, but think about dis...
...the day he did WE I did it for the first time too. We're pretty similar in overall ability, climb a lot together and tend to be able to match each others ascents. So if I top out in front of him he has a psychological boost, and vice versa.
That is of course, as long as I'm not using some obviously ultra-flexible beta that I've got wired some time in the past and does nothing but depress him.

Just imagine trying to do BP for the first time, if it had WE's landing, it would feel monster!

Not convinced. BP is one move that occasionally dumps you on your arse. With a few pads WE is no more scary for the crux as the fall is much more predictable. Admittedly the top is scary, but then that's not the bit earnin the grade.

Bear in mind Lamiche flashed BP with no local knowledge, but even with beta, ten mats and spotters WE took quite a while. He didn't argue with 7c+.

There is no greater crime than downgradin problems you haven't done :wink:

[cofe]

We're pretty similar in overall ability,

[Scouse D]

We're pretty similar in overall ability,

[Bonjoy]

Not advocating a change of grade, as I am in no position to do that. Just saying how it feels to me. Really I haven't tried WE enough to have a very valid opinion though. Am I allowed to toprope it now to prove my point? :wink:

[Ru]

Bear in mind Lamiche flashed BP with no local knowledge

Thing with Brad Pit is that I doubt that there's a media savvy boulderer in the world that doesn't know the heel sequence - I've seen pics of it in about 5 french mags over the years, not to mention on the internet.

Anyway BP is 7c if you can do it, it's just that some people find the heel sequence hard/impossible so they drag the average grade up. WE is just straight slapping up slopes. If you were very happy with using heels, BP at height over a bad landing would be fine, but if you are one of the people that find BP hard then it would be loads more difficult than WE if it was in the same position.

Anyway, it's an academic argument, only one of us has our hands on the trigger :wink: Having said that, for a price it can be any grade you like.

And who's westie?

[Bonjoy]

Know what you mean re BP, I always thought 7c+ but now its done i'm thinking maybe it was 7c after all. Hey-ho. :?

[dave]

And who's westie?

the best answer to that is "not dense".

[Jim]

I was gonna say dense but that would just be confusing now wouldn't it

[a dense loner]

sam westaker.

[Johnny Brown]

Anyway BP is 7c if you can do it, it's just that some people find the heel sequence hard/impossible so they drag the average grade up. WE is just straight slapping up slopes.
 If you were very happy with using heels, BP at height over a bad landing would be fine, but if you are one of the people that find BP hard then it would be loads more difficult than WE if it was in the same position.

Comparin apples with oranges I guess. The main thing is Brad Pit is one move really, whereas Western eyes is more sustained. I think anyone who has done both several (3+) times would agree WE is a harder prospect irrespective of landing :wink:

[Bubba]

I think anyone who has done both several (3+) times...

[cofe]

Johnny Brown... we



you.

[a dense loner]

how dare anyone think of comparing me n johnny!

[clm]

They dont dense...jonny has hair :wink:

[a dense loner]

you shouldn't be lookin :roll: