[User deactivated.]

It's not seeming popular so I will probably get rid of that aspect of the design. I do like the roof extension at the top though, I think that could offer some interesting climbing.

My other idea was to build an overhanging prow instead of a flat board, since this is somewhat more like most of the real climbing I will do...

[abarro81]

if you have 6m width what about half with your design and half without? Or is that a faff to build?

Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2" bit - that has a prow section in the old stories and an alternative approach (long triangle volumes on the sides of the board) in the newer stories. Both look like they'd give good opportunities for heels, compression etc.  and even knees with some thought. New version (latest stories) looks good to me and probably quite modifyable in the future for if you get bored?

[cheque]

Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2"

Talk about sandbag board grades 

[MischaHY]

I'm quite interested in the idea of something 70% symmetrical, with the remainder set with random stuff. Mainly because the one I've trained on most of the time over the past few years is a complete splatter mix with wooden holds and plastic, and I think it would be good for my alternative to be mostly wooden holds and also that I think it would probably be good to force me to do stuff both sides and generally add a little bit more structure.

But I have a load of old resin holds which I ought to make use of, and I also need to have some stuff for 7-year-old to get up. And I want to be able to do some longer circuits on it as well.

I've recently redone my 45 like this because I'd set it symmetrically with only small footholds and whilst I found it useful for developing body tension it really didn't replicate a wider range of movement which reduced fun and transfer to rock. Rather than reset the whole thing I slung a big mix of resin on there as well plus switched primarily to feet-follow-hands and this has really opened it up. I'm now going through the process of doing the same thing to the 30 because it worked so well.

[Bradders]

if you have 6m width what about half with your design and half without? Or is that a faff to build?

Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2" bit - that has a prow section in the old stories and an alternative approach (long triangle volumes on the sides of the board) in the newer stories. Both look like they'd give good opportunities for heels, compression etc.  and even knees with some thought. New version (latest stories) looks good to me and probably quite modifyable in the future for if you get bored?

I think he has 2.5m width, 6m length. Obviously you could put it lengthways but then you'd be pretty constrained in terms of angle and height.

Like the others I wouldn't go with the mini roof. How many boulder problems actually start like that anyway?

Dave Buchanan has a sort of similar angle change on his board. Personally not a set up I'd go for either (especially the massive vert top section) but each to their own.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmUU72LDLSJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I reckon just standard flat board at 50' is the way to go, and use volumes to create other angles if you need.

[JJP]

Sounds a good space liam.
Like others not sure I would be keen on that bottom section/ horizontal kickboard and would either have a conventional kickboard or just full thing at 50 degrees.
I have a kick board as I needed to be able to walk behind the wall (access elec meter and fuse box etc).
Whilst I still dont know if would be better without a kickboard one advantage has been when I buy holds that i am not strong enough to use on 45 degrees I can put them lower and use them when feet are on the kickboard!
I have similar space but didnt think of a roof section - built a seperate campus and FB bit to side/ back from wall.

[sdm]

I'm a firm believer in not having a kickboard. I don't want the starts to be less steep.

But you can have both: keep it at 50° with feet to the bottom but build a separate detachable kickboard. Slide the kickboard out of the way when you want it to be 50° and slide it in to place when you want a kickboard. You can position the kickboard wherever you want in order to reduce the angle for endurance training.

It isn't worth the effort if you are purely going to use the board for limit sessions. But I think it is worth doing if you have the space and want to do endurance sessions.

[tomtom]

My first board was 53 degrees - my second 40. Both train different things.. but I think I get more variety of movement (less brutal) on the 40.

Can’t visualise the space (sorry) but why not a ‘roof’ at the top rather than the bottom?

[Probes]

Could you build the board on the 6m wall. So you have a 6m wide board. It would be a shame not to use that space if available. Personally I'd go small kicker 250mm or something, so you can get into the bottom of the board without it being so bunched and a 45deg. You'd have about 3.5m length of surface. The top of the board would butt up against the opposite wall, but I've done a few like this and it never causes a problem. That would be quite some board. Plenty of space for say a mirrored section, then splatter with volumes etc.

[spidermonkey09]

Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?

[mrjonathanr]

I'll need to rebuild my board in a new space soon and will have a full garage to play with, approximately 6m long, 2.5m wide, 2.5m tall. It's a good space, and I'm trying to maximize what I do with it. So far I have the following design, any suggestions? 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/127rlub_YIJa9Ps36WfooBK6r25Fv67sy/view?usp=sharing

Why not have 2 stacked 4x4 batons coach bolted into the back wall to rest the base of the board onto. Cover with ply, gives about 10” kickboard. Make your board straight out at the same angle. Do another facing it directly but only 2m wide so you can walk past it. Set it up as a crimp y system board at 40’ or similar.

[Probes]

Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?

You would have thought so hey, but peeps say after a bit of use you get used to it. You're aware of the potential so naturally don't do anything to risk pinging into it. This is from pretty legit time served board climbers. Specifically an Otley based one, I was pretty concerned it would be an issue for them, and it hasn't.
Not sure I'd be too into it if I had a better option.   

[dunnyg]

I put a spare pad against the wall. Not wrecked myself yet but I might be avoiding massive dynos.

[Bradders]

Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?

You would have thought so hey, but peeps say after a bit of use you get used to it. You're aware of the potential so naturally don't do anything to risk pinging into it. This is from pretty legit time served board climbers. Specifically an Otley based one, I was pretty concerned it would be an issue for them, and it hasn't.
Not sure I'd be too into it if I had a better option.

I have about 40cm between the top of my board and a row of fingerboards behind it, which then has a 20' board underneath. This gives a little more room than just a flat wall and means I can do big moves cutting loose etc. to the top. Imagine you couldn't quite do that if it were a flat wall behind, but would still work.

If the Otley board is the one I'm thinking of then I've climbed on it and it was definitely a little neckier than mine but I can imagine getting used to it. And as you say, putting it lengthways gives a pretty massive space! The only difference there is I think that one is also pretty tall? Whereas with only 2.5m height I'm not sure it'd be quite the same.

[Probes]

If the Otley board is the one I'm thinking of then I've climbed on it and it was definitely a little neckier than mine but I can imagine getting used to it. And as you say, putting it lengthways gives a pretty massive space! The only difference there is I think that one is also pretty tall? Whereas with only 2.5m height I'm not sure it'd be quite the same.
[/quote]

If my memory serves me, it was exactly 3 panels (I remember bonus moment not having to cut the last panels :D).. so 3.2m with maybe a 250mm kicker. So if my math is correct that would make that also a 2.5m high ceiling?
 

[Bradders]

Ah fair enough, for some reason my memory is of it being taller 

[andy popp]

Can’t visualise the space (sorry) but why not a ‘roof’ at the top rather than the bottom?

My board had a flat roof at the top with the finishing equivalent of kick board round the lip (which leant slightly and was lined with simple wooden holds and a continuous rail for finishing matched on). Personally, I thought it significantly enhanced the scope of the board.

[Coops_13]

Looking for collective wisdom on size of kicker / headwall. Putting in a 45 which will be c. 3m wide and 3.3m length (hypotenuse). Was thinking yes for kicker and headwall. To maximise climbing space, was thinking only a 15cm kicker and 15cm headwall. Thoughts on whether this would work or too small a kicker / headwall?

[mrjonathanr]

I’ve got both, at 20cm. 15 sounds viable but tight. You need some room for heels off the bottom of the kickboard.

[remus]

If you've got enough ceiling length you could go for a headwall on a bit of an angle (20-30 degrees). It'd give you a bit more space on there and avoid the "every finishing hold is a jug" issue.

[mr chaz]

Don't bother with either! Got rid of my headwall after a few months, last moves were always easy. Never had a kickboard, makes the pull-ons nice and hard.

[Bradders]

Don't bother with either! Got rid of my headwall after a few months, last moves were always easy. Never had a kickboard, makes the pull-ons nice and hard.

100% this. I do have a small finishing rail, but it's at about 40' (board is 45') and is only about 7cm with the roof of my shed above it, so finishing moves are to slot type edges so you have to be accurate. Absolutely none of the lobs to finishing jugs you get on so many boards.

[sdm]

Looking for collective wisdom on size of kicker / headwall. Putting in a 45 which will be c. 3m wide and 3.3m length (hypotenuse). Was thinking yes for kicker and headwall. To maximise climbing space, was thinking only a 15cm kicker and 15cm headwall. Thoughts on whether this would work or too small a kicker / headwall?

I'm in the neither camp unless space constraints force you to include them. Kickers and headwalls add to build complexity and reduce the effective angle of your board. Rather than a headwall with nails holds on it, you can achieve the same difficulty without a headwall and slightly easier finishing holds.

If height is the limiting factor for your 3.3m climbing length, I definitely wouldn't bother with either.

If the length of floor space is the limiting factor, I could maybe make a case for including them, but I'm still not clear on what the advantage of a 45 with kicker & headwall is over a 40 with neither.

[Fultonius]

I think one of the reasons a kicker is often included is due to the sharp angle made by the board and the ground making the bottom 25cm of  the board unusable anyway?  (i.e. your foot doesn't fit in the gap, unless you inside/outside edge or really point your toes.)

[webbo]

My bottom footholds on my 40 degree no kicker board are 25 cm up the board or 20 off  the floor.
I reckon they could go lower. However when I have had boards with 10/15 cm kicker and done problem starting with my feet above the kicker it always seemed harder to pull on than with low feet.