[Duma]

There's a fitting I see used at the wall to allow screws to fit the bolt hole in a bolt on hold, no idea what it's called and can't work out what to search for though...

[mr chaz]

https://www.climbingwallservices.com/collections/climbing-wall-equipment/products/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5

There's this, but its sold out. Might be available elsewhere.

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers all. Think the obvious solution is to put a suitable washer on top of the hanger and then screw through that into the ply unless I'm missing something?

[Duma]

https://www.climbingwallservices.com/collections/climbing-wall-equipment/products/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5

There's this, but its sold out. Might be available elsewhere.

This is what I was thinking of

[Stabbsy]

Cheers all. Think the obvious solution is to put a suitable washer on top of the hanger and then screw through that into the ply unless I'm missing something?

Depends if you’re set on using the bolt hanger - I just drilled a hole in the ply and tied a loop of 5mm cord through it and hang the pulley off that.

[Fultonius]

I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley?  I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.

https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750

Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.

Or...just put it on a t-nut....

[mr chaz]

I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v

[spidermonkey09]

I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley?  I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.

https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750

Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.

Or...just put it on a t-nut....

I only use the pulley for one arm hangs on the bottom middle edge, so theres normally about 5kg hanging off it. Never more than 10kg. Depends what you consider a decent weight i guess? I'm no engineer but I'd have thought a decent length screw is more than capable of taking that weight? I will put a block behind it anyway, to bring the fixing out so the weight doesn't swing and clip the wall.

I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v

Cheers; these look like a good option as well.

[webbo]

Due having no where to screw my finger board in my garage. I glued a piece of plywood into the recess in the metal lintel and screwed my finger board to this.
I think got up to my not too light body weight plus 30 lbs at one time. There was one time when there was a large cracking sound when I was hanging off it. But squeezing more glue behind it appears to resolve the issue.

[Bradders]

I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley? 

I just have a single 6mm screw for my pulley assisted hangs atm, no problems. Does feel a bit ghetto though.

[remus]

Yeah, you can definitely just raz a couple of screws through the bolt hole. I've done this a couple of times and tested it with a straight out pull up to 60kg or so. Obviously depends on the quality of your ply and using some chunky screws so don't expect 4x40mm screws in to mdd to work.

[Fultonius]

I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley?  I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.

https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750

Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.

Or...just put it on a t-nut....

I only use the pulley for one arm hangs on the bottom middle edge, so theres normally about 5kg hanging off it. Never more than 10kg. Depends what you consider a decent weight i guess? I'm no engineer but I'd have thought a decent length screw is more than capable of taking that weight? I will put a block behind it anyway, to bring the fixing out so the weight doesn't swing and clip the wall.

I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v

Cheers; these look like a good option as well.

For <20kg one 4.5mm or 5mm screw would be fine. Most of my jugs are on with 2 x 4.5mm screws and I've done 2 handed pullups on that no worries.

[webbo]

Due having no where to screw my finger board in my garage. I glued a piece of plywood into the recess in the metal lintel and screwed my finger board to this.
I think got up to my not too light body weight plus 30 lbs at one time. There was one time when there was a large cracking sound when I was hanging off it. But squeezing more glue behind it appears to resolve the issue.

Forgot to mention I also screwed a eye bolt into my finger board for assisted hangs.

[kac]

I'm waiting for bleaustone pockets to arrive in the post and having screwed all my other wood holds I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach them. It looks like the lonestar washers are still out of stock otherwise I would just buy these. Does anyone have any recommendations for an alternative truncated washer?

[Bradders]

I use these, no washers required

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Spax-TX-Washer-Head-Wirox-Screws---6-x-60mm-Pack-of-30/p/140805?gclid=CjwKCAjwu_mSBhAYEiwA5BBmf-5y7-dLPcXzGS0VJGmHkoG-E3NTcXADgQMzExJZ8oli_b6MZqjR2xoCpacQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[tk421a]

https://www.accu.co.uk/solid-countersunk-washers/611609-HKW-M6-A1

Assuming you're using M5 screws. Just go up a size vs whatever you're using.

[kac]

Brilliant - thanks for that. Helpful advice as usual!

[matt463]

Has anyone had experience of building a board where the structure of it is secured to a vertical brick wall only? I've built a freestanding one before but would be keen to avoid having the supports this time around. Just unsure about how safe/secure fixing to a vertical wall only is. My garage roof is probably not the most sturdy, it has a couple of steel joists supporting, but these and the wood (~4x2) only really look like they're there to support the weight of the roof. Probably not the safest to secure a board to.

[kc]

Is it possible to double up the existing joists or add a new joist by chopping out bricks and somehow threading it in.
I had to replace all the joists at the back of my garage as it is built into a hillside and the joist ends were not bitumen rapped and had rotten away.

[SA Chris]

can you hang off the joists to test for flex / movement? Is the garage freestanding and separate to the house?

[matt463]

This situation is a bit awkward really. The length of the garage on one side is connected to my house and the other is the neighbour. So could just put two joist hangers up but would need their permission and trying to find a workaround. If the best thing to do is to have some sort of roof fixing I might need to do that

[Steve R]

If you can link to some photos of the space might help with ideas.  Tying a steep board directly back to a brick wall doesn't sound like a great plan....potential for sizeable lateral forces and racking effects.   

[SA Chris]

Agree, best to have loading to both wall and roof truss if possible. If not, some support to the floor as per freestanding is next best bet.

[matt463]

If you can link to some photos of the space might help with ideas.  Tying a steep board directly back to a brick wall doesn't sound like a great plan....potential for sizeable lateral forces and racking effects.

Yea this gives a basic idea. The right handside wall is the neighbour and the left is mine

https://www.flickr.com/photos/196186917@N08/shares/3616C73118

Thanks for the comments. It might be the case that freestanding is best. Which isn't too bad.

[Steve R]

Hard to see exactly what's going on but I'd say you'd be able to get a solid board with what's there without going for freestanding.  Does the wall (your side) have a perpendicular internal brick wall (inside your house)at some point along the length of where the board's going to be?  If yes then I'd be looking to get fixing spread across those wooden roof trusses (look decent depth) and get the top of the board fixed in a way so force is 'butting up' against your wall. Possibly using those steel supports to do the butting depending on how they interface with the brick.