How are the female finals too easy again??? incredible, no one wants to go to count back or time.
Same chief routesetter as the catastrophe in Dallas for the youth worlds and for Brixen with the video where he laughs about the female competitors.....
I wouldn't be surprised if Janja has a think about competing next year. She seems to have been pretty disillusioned with the setting for a long time now, and this weekend will surely only have added to that. Something needs to change, and soon.
Quote from: jakk on September 12, 2022, 09:10:46 amSame chief routesetter as the catastrophe in Dallas for the youth worlds and for Brixen with the video where he laughs about the female competitors.....Really?? Have you got a link - that sounds pretty terrible.I wouldn't be surprised if Janja has a think about competing next year. She seems to have been pretty disillusioned with the setting for a long time now, and this weekend will surely only have added to that. Something needs to change, and soon.
I reckon Janja will compete next year for 2 reasons:1) The process for qualifying for Paris 2024 will almost certainly require competing in 2023, and2) National Team quotas are dependant on having high ranking athletes so the Slovenian federation will be keen for Janja to compete.
I believe it was this one, somewhere in this second part (?) Basically they are working on one of the women's semi boulders and joking like we should make it harder, but not TOO hard hahahaha, then in reality almost all of the 20 in semis topped it, about half flash...Maybe some more stuff in there too but it's quite long and I was quite turned off after that and some other similar stuff. Editing can make anyone a villain but it seems somewhat of a theme.
This happened last year, doubt it's the future of bouldering comps but would be interesting to see happen more often. I suppose it's similar to the attempts the GB Titans comp made to have a mixed comp.
It seems the setters tend to underestimate the strength of the best woman. But I wonder if the difficulty is that there is a much bigger gap between the best woman and the 10th best woman versus the best man and the 10th best man.
Quote from: wasbeen on September 12, 2022, 05:28:15 pmIt seems the setters tend to underestimate the strength of the best woman. But I wonder if the difficulty is that there is a much bigger gap between the best woman and the 10th best woman versus the best man and the 10th best man.I agree the mens being closer makes it simpler, but I'd argue that when Janja was hugely dominant that didn't really complicate the routesetting - just make sure the rest of the women are split, and if Janja doesn't feel challenged then tough for her, but the competition is still fair and representing performances.Now we have a situation with 2 or 3 competitors well clear, so it's vital the routes are hard enough to split those top athletes. Edinburgh essentially failed tell us who was the best climber!
Quote from: Duma on September 12, 2022, 09:20:50 pmQuote from: wasbeen on September 12, 2022, 05:28:15 pmIt seems the setters tend to underestimate the strength of the best woman. But I wonder if the difficulty is that there is a much bigger gap between the best woman and the 10th best woman versus the best man and the 10th best man.I agree the mens being closer makes it simpler, but I'd argue that when Janja was hugely dominant that didn't really complicate the routesetting - just make sure the rest of the women are split, and if Janja doesn't feel challenged then tough for her, but the competition is still fair and representing performances.Now we have a situation with 2 or 3 competitors well clear, so it's vital the routes are hard enough to split those top athletes. Edinburgh essentially failed tell us who was the best climber!I have to disagree. It's a competitive discipline with clear rules which the athletes are fully aware of. Janja must have known that there was another climber on better form than her and that therefore a slow top might not win it for her? More importantly, it was brilliant to see Toby battle his way onto the podium and I'm slightly amazed that isn't the main focus of discussion here. First male podium in lead since 1994 I'm told, awesome if true. I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to help out so I got to see some of the action, and returning from doing an airport run just in time to see Toby start in the finals was such a privilege.