[MischaHY]

Do they resole ok?

I've had the new Chimera resoled successfully.

I must say, I was quite disappointed with them. It was absolutely amazing when I first started wearing them. Fit was perfect out the box and my go-to for most things. Then the heel bagged out horrendously and I can barely get any power through the toes anymore. They're fine for smearing on grit and slopers because they're so soft, but anything steeper or smaller and they feel like jelly. Barely wear them anymore despite being my main shoe for about six/nine months (before they bagged).

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

[MischaHY]

Considering the original thread topic, I've recently switched to the Instinct S and Lace for my rock shoes because they fit my foot shape better in terms of width and have the narrower heel that I need. Still early days with the S but so far I'm very impressed and especially the heel is excellent for a slipper. It's sensitive but can still deliver a lot of force through small holds. The heel is softer than that of the Lace but still has enough stiffness and form to hold on edges without feeling baggy. Toehooking is excellent due to the really high rubber coverage but the perforation seems to prevent any discomfort from such a large toe patch. Really looking forward to getting them out on the sandstone and granite.

[M1V0]

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

Good thought, but I sized them to the smallest I’ve ever fit into Instincts. So maybe? Not sure I could have gone any smaller. They never really had a breaking in period I thought, maybe because they were as soft as they were.

I seem to remember chatting to someone at the Bowderstone recently with Chimeras who shared my sentiment on them. Although maybe they were just agreeing so they could stop talking to me…

[MischaHY]

How did you size them? Could it be that half a size smaller would have resolved this after an initial break in?

Good thought, but I sized them to the smallest I’ve ever fit into Instincts. So maybe? Not sure I could have gone any smaller. They never really had a breaking in period I thought, maybe because they were as soft as they were.

I seem to remember chatting to someone at the Bowderstone recently with Chimeras who shared my sentiment on them. Although maybe they were just agreeing so they could stop talking to me…

Just a thought because you said the fit was perfect out of the box. I'm not a fan of grim tight shoes but some intial tightness usually results in a better longer term fit after an initial few sessions when the shoe feels too tight.

[Scouse D]

Considering the original thread topic, I've recently switched to the Instinct S and Lace for my rock shoes because they fit my foot shape better in terms of width and have the narrower heel that I need. Still early days with the S but so far I'm very impressed and especially the heel is excellent for a slipper. It's sensitive but can still deliver a lot of force through small holds. The heel is softer than that of the Lace but still has enough stiffness and form to hold on edges without feeling baggy. Toehooking is excellent due to the really high rubber coverage but the perforation seems to prevent any discomfort from such a large toe patch. Really looking forward to getting them out on the sandstone and granite.

I had to sell my instinct S because they felt awful on my feet. The rubber top felt clunky and inflexible and the lack of traditional rand made it very difficult to see/sense where the outside edge is. Despite having a feeling of 'power' through the toes the acid test was that when I put my VSRs back on I could do problems that I was struggling with in the instinct S.

[T_B]

I can’t make up my mind about the Instinct S. They seem tighter than the equivalent sized VS-R and I agree with Scouse’s point about not being able to see your outside edge. I also seem to slip off holds that you’re trying to pull in on on steep stuff as they’re just too stiff. Obvs the they’re great toe hooking and the heel is surprisingly good for a slipper, but I kind of wish I’d got them half a size up to just use on easy circuits/indoor routes/trad etc I.e. biffing around. Doubt I’ll buy another pair.

[MischaHY]

I can’t make up my mind about the Instinct S. They seem tighter than the equivalent sized VS-R and I agree with Scouse’s point about not being able to see your outside edge. I also seem to slip off holds that you’re trying to pull in on on steep stuff as they’re just too stiff. Obvs the they’re great toe hooking and the heel is surprisingly good for a slipper, but I kind of wish I’d got them half a size up to just use on easy circuits/indoor routes/trad etc I.e. biffing around. Doubt I’ll buy another pair.

How small did you go? I'm 1.5 sizes down and was worried initially because they felt really stiff but after a few sessions they really loosened up and got nicely flexible.

[T_B]

I take a 43.5 in all of the Instincts. The slippers definitely feel a smidge tighter than the Velcros. I’m normally a 46 in running shoes though I take 45.5 in Scarpa mountain boots.

I was hoping the slippers were going to get soft but they haven’t yet.

[Steve Crowe]

I wear size 40 in Instinct lace and both blue & Orange Velcro but I wear 41 in the newest Instinct Slipper. The heel is much improved on the previous slipper with the blue stripe. (PS. I bought 40.5 first and they are a little too tight).

I think the new Instinct slipper is a great all rounder but on reflection I prefer both Velcro Instincts by a small margin.

[MischaHY]

I take a 43.5 in all of the Instincts. The slippers definitely feel a smidge tighter than the Velcros. I’m normally a 46 in running shoes though I take 45.5 in Scarpa mountain boots.

I was hoping the slippers were going to get soft but they haven’t yet.

I wonder though if the reason they feel too stiff is because they're sized too small. If you're 2-2.5 sizes down depending on what we take as street size then that's a very tight fit and could be stopping the shoe from being able to flex in the toebox.

[Steve Crowe]

I think each upgrade to the Instinct Slipper has got more robust and I think you can buy a more comfortable fit with the worry of them stretching much.

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/instinct-s/

[Fultonius]

Any update on this?

My current pair of Instinct VS are getting worn down enough and softening enough that I'm struggling to stand on a crucial foothold on my current proj.

I could jsut get a new pair and save them, or maybe get a pair of laces? Any other thoughts for the Scarpa officinado?

Could the S be better? No toe hooks or heel hooks needed (well, a couple of heels but nothing crucial). It's much more about feeling secure on small, slippery, rounded edges and not rolling off when I force all my 80kg though 4mm of slightly sloping, slightly polished, slippery dolerite...

[Moo]

Try on a set of chimeras. If they fit your feet they’re very stiff but still feel plenty sensitive on small edges like you’re describing. I found them pretty terrible on out and out slopers though. 

[Fultonius]

I've had the Mk1 chimeras and they were nice on more smedgey, sensitive stuff but on this hold I need to out so much force through the toe, I can't imagine them being supportive/stiff enough.

I just read on UKC that there has been proper testing done on XS Grip vs Edge and that there basically a weight cutoff where performance transitions from being better with grip to edge, and it's about 70kg. That's probably why I've mainly got on best with shoes that use xsedge!

Are the new chimeras better on edges?

Might get a pair anyway as I've worn my old ones out.

[Danny]

That is interesting, as I am miles over 70kg (and 80kg for that matter) but I'm not a fan of the edge rubber. So much so that I got a pair of the OG organge VS velrcos resoled in grip before they made the blue ones.

[Danny]

I've still got a pair of the orange instinct slippers, which I love. Now twice resoled. Hoping the instinct LEs will be less of the L, and they'll rerun them in 44.5 /45 at some point.

[RobK]

The boostic might be another option. I switch between them and the chimera for routes depending if I want something stiffer or softer. I would not describe the chimera as a stiff shoe...

[Fultonius]

The boostic might be another option. I switch between them and the chimera for routes depending if I want something stiffer or softer. I would not describe the chimera as a stiff shoe...

I tried the boostic on this route (v2) and it was surprisingly terrible - either I had a badly made pair, or they actually decided to end the midsole insert about 5mm back from the edge meaning that the very tip of the big toe is horrible soft and floppy - you can just fold it in with your thumb. I love the shape of the boostic, and found them great indoors, but they just wouldn't stay on small edges for me.

A mate (who climbs there a lot) has just suggested instinct lace. I have pair 1/2 size up for trad, so maybe that's the winner - just get them in my smaller size.

[Fultonius]

That is interesting, as I am miles over 70kg (and 80kg for that matter) but I'm not a fan of the edge rubber. So much so that I got a pair of the OG organge VS velrcos resoled in grip before they made the blue ones.

What rock type do you mainly climb on?

[RobK]

A mate (who climbs there a lot) has just suggested instinct lace. I have pair 1/2 size up for trad, so maybe that's the winner - just get them in my smaller size.

I certainly find the instinct lace toe is stiffer than the boostic and might be my go-to if it was all about standing on a micro edge. For me the compromise in sensitivity has never been worth it though, but sounds like it could work for you in this situation.

[Sasquatch]

As a true lover of the instinct vs(and quite heavy-90kg), I actually found the miura vs better than the instinct lace on thin smedgy stuff.  And it fits wider feet quite well. 

[Danny]

That is interesting, as I am miles over 70kg (and 80kg for that matter) but I'm not a fan of the edge rubber. So much so that I got a pair of the OG organge VS velrcos resoled in grip before they made the blue ones.

What rock type do you mainly climb on?

Everything from low friction coastal shale, to the roughest granite on the planet, roughly seasonally moving between the two.

[Fultonius]

That is interesting, as I am miles over 70kg (and 80kg for that matter) but I'm not a fan of the edge rubber. So much so that I got a pair of the OG organge VS velrcos resoled in grip before they made the blue ones.

What rock type do you mainly climb on?

Everything from low friction coastal shale, to the roughest granite on the planet, roughly seasonally moving between the two.

Niche!