[Footwork]

Boring question, but which right hand do you start with? After all, rules are rules here.

I've seen comments from Ru saying you start using the Superman side pull as a gaston. Is this quite high? Looks like Frances Bensley uses this hold to start. Most other vids (James Jacobs/ Molly TS/ Jackpal) use a lower, thin spike pinch (as per ukc description).

Or is this a rare occasion of just use whatever you want?

Thanks.

 

[abarro81]

It's the low thin pinch thing. It's about a grade easier using the higher hold (a crimpy thing?) IIRC, but "not the Hulk". Because UK lime is shit.

[Ru]

Boring question, but which right hand do you start with? After all, rules are rules here.

I've seen comments from Ru saying you start using the Superman side pull as a gaston. Is this quite high? Looks like Frances Bensley uses this hold to start.

That side-pull broke off years ago. You now use the bits that are left of it, that don't look like a side-pull any more.

[Footwork]

Thanks both 

[highrepute]

Looks to me like Frances uses the thin pinch as per the rules,

but a slightly higher right hand hold to pull on.

[abarro81]

The Q was about the right hand starting hold, which - as I've always been told - is also part of the rules...

[highrepute]

This crag. So many rules, and all of them word of mouth.

[Fultonius]

Someone should carve the rules into a tablet and cement it on the rock.

[Footwork]

The problem with a crag that appears to be 90% based on rules, is that those rules are mostly lost with the generation that made them up. Partly because no comprehensive guide was made at the time, though I'm certainly not advocating one!

So the problems become word of mouth, which is cool (and frustrating if you care about ticking history - or at least the bits that haven't snapped off). I spotted Ben on the Hulk a couple of years ago and he frenched the start. I would have said "back around mate" or "you'll get that next time" if I had only known the rules. 

Anyway, original Superman sequence below which I now declare the first left side pull used on this Superman sequence as the official starting right hand 'area' for Hulk (until overruled by a higher authority). In the event that this hold finishes its disintegration into nothing then you may start with the higher crimp people now use on Superman. This is the way.

https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1931

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I love that vid.

I love the simplicity - and that the ground is still an important aspect of mountaineering .. as ably demonstrated by Ben Pritch