Personally I think it comes down to the head to head format of speed in the final being a poor choice as there's too much luck involved. The qualifying format seems fairer imo.
TBH I feel that lead is the most unforgiving. Fuck up an attempt in the bouldering and you can try again. You get two runs in speed. In lead, you fall? Sorry, you've fucked it. Game over.
From my punters point of view it just seems like there is more luck in the speed final than in the other disciplines (not helped by the head to head format).For example, Tomoa fumbling the clip in the lead qualification didn't instantly relegate him to last place. He didn't do amazingly (it's his worst discipline so you wouldn't expect him to win anyway), but it wasn't fatal. On the other hand it wouldn't take much of a fumble in the speed to put a serious dent in your scores.Overall it just seems a strange choice of format. Personally I enjoy competitions where the athletes have a chance to demonstrate their prowess within the sport. I guess you could argue that part of performing in speed is being able to knock out respectable scores consistently, but in my very subjective opinion it seems like there's a bigger helping of luck in there than in the other disciplines.
For an outsider, I think the climbing has sold itself pretty short. There is the obvious speed vs the rest which has resulted in almost everyone looks a bit shit at some point.Beyond that, the lead and bouldering lacks entertainment for the newcomer. Lead in particular is very difficult to comprehend without having done it yourself as the BBC website put it ... "Lead is a little bit like driving an electric car and having route-anxiety. It's all about conserving the power!"I hope they shake it up a bit more for next time. I would like to see DWS with technical routes against the clock like the Psicobloc Masters.
Giving it a multiplier of 1 seems a strange to me!
Quote from: Duma on August 04, 2021, 09:35:53 amUKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speedThis is such a joke.I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.
UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed
Someone good at stats/maths answer this! If the winner of individual event got 2 not 1, i.e first in speed gets 2 points, 2nd gets 3, last gets 21 points etc etc). Would that change the overall positions much? Giving it a multiplier of 1 seems a strange to me!
I've been using a vpn to watch it on the Canadian Broadcasting site and had awful male commentators yesterday but the female commentators today (both Canadian) were actually alright. Just a shame on the schedule so I only watch the lead (0610 start)
It changes it slightly, but not that much. In the Women's Meshkova would have qualified instead of Miroslaw.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se. The main issue is that it gives equal weighting to the speed as to the boulder and lead, which is something that people on here don't really like.
I don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se.
I do feel a bit sorry for the speed climbers, ..... , forced to flounder for a televised eternity.
Quote from: joel182 on August 04, 2021, 07:39:57 pmI don't think there is any particular problem with the multiplication per se. The main issue is that it gives equal weighting to the speed as to the boulder and lead, which is something that people on here don't really like.Personally not interested in speed climbing but I can see how it’s an entertaining and an understandable sport. I just don’t really get the the scoring. As it’s a combined discipline medal and you don’t have individual medals for each disciplines, you are looking for the ‘best’ all rounder climber. (I guess a bit like pentathlon?). So why have a scoring system that seems to favour winning an individual discipline. As you say, probably totally irrelevant as it’s changing for Paris. Anyway, mega props to Shauna. An inspiring journey and sounds like she had a rough old ride recently.