I am currently doing max hangs on the 15mm BM2K + 48kg (body weight ~90kg). Target would be to 1 arm hang a 20mm edge half crimp and open. I think you are probably right it is probably more the shoulder stability, although on the bottom BM rung it still feels like the fingers are opening and just not stable. My issue with pulley is that I cannot find a easy way to fit it without the mount being in the way of either the door or if mounted near the board it gets in the way of the lower rungs.
If you can drop your fingerboard backing panel down below the top of the doorway on each side (keep rock ing the board where it is) and cut out a square for a bit of 1" by 2" wood, or a cirlcle for a strong pole etc (or whatever will do the job thats strong enough). wedge that in between both holes either side of the door so it projects out behind from the board for about 50-60cm in the center and hang your pulley off that. Pulleys which are inline with fingerboards will always cause frustration if they're in a doorway.
Is that really your surname, i though it was made up user name! If so you come a close second to Mike Tyson, formerly of this parish.
Dan, what do you rank as more important - board or hangs? If you could only do one.
Quote from: Doylo on April 08, 2020, 12:19:42 pmDan, what do you rank as more important - board or hangs? If you could only do one.Is this for expert testimony to take to the planning hearing with Mrs Doylo? 😃
Great thread and interesting getting so much detail, especially benefits of assisted 1 arm vs weighted 2 arm. I fingerboard periodically and have been using a sort of theraband thing for assistance to the other hand but might try set up a pulley.I have always found anything other than chisel, half crimp and to an extent 3 finger drag really tweaky/ horrible feeling. Will try using the weights and sling to work on pinky and ring fingers.
... Ok so normally you'd be looking to transfer at 60-70kg added as thats 70%ish. If you imagine each arm is taking equal load, then at the moment each arm is only holding 69KG and you would want to be closer to 75-80kg to hop onto a pulley +one arm more easily
I have always found anything other than chisel, half crimp and to an extent 3 finger drag really tweaky/ horrible feeling. Will try using the weights and sling to work on pinky and ring fingers.
Are you supposed to finish and feel worked or still feel ok?I also tried hanging 1 armed off a massive jug a realised this was still fucking desperate (if keeping shoulders engaged etc) and I could only just do that for 10 sec.
Dan, or anyone What is the normal distribution of strength in each digit?Was thinking of benchmarking each digit (presumably by weights on a sling as mentioned above) to see if there is a particularly weak digit.Is there an old thread on this?
One of the guys at Lattice is doing his dissertation project on this at the moment. I think he's writing up at the moment, I'll try and remember to post it on here when he's finished.