[tomtom]

Afternoon all...

M: Work

Tu: Snuck off in the afternoon to meet up with Dolly at Anston. First visit to Frodo butress. Couldnt do the 6B+ on the right (samwise) but kind of gave up after Dolly did it and I'd just be wasting strength/skin on it.. Moved to Saruman 7A which eventually went after removing some finger tape covering a split allowed me to hold the finalish pocket correctly.. Had a good play on Frodo - which felt nails - then discovered a hold had come off upon return home...

Fri: Church crag on way home from Work... Nice afternoon. No progress on anything I've not done before. Though had my fingers in the back of the jug on Shield but didnt hold it (twice). Managed the top of Pockets that I hadnt done before - but then couldnt get the bottom done - that I had before. Go figure. Tennis elbow playing up...

Sa: Given a pass in the afternoon but feeling trashed from friday went to Brownstones for a potter and climbed poorly :D

I'm a bit down beat this week. The Tennis Elbow in my left arm has flared up. A 7-9 days off climbing last week has NOT helped it would appear. I'm considering whether to stop completely for a few weeks and rehab back - whereas previously it was a managable niggle. It could well be that Church crag doesnt help - as most of the problems I'm trying involve locking off on a left hand crimp (which is what aggravates it the most). Having been through a few websites fairly sure its tendinosis not tendonisis... I dunno. The wrist curls WERE helping, but not being able to fully maintain them whilst away hasnt helped.

Hmph.

[Duma]

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - 30PU.

T - TCA, hard bouldering, second session on the blacks. Bit more successful, did 8 more and all moves on several more. 10/22 to go. RH middle finger bit tweaky though. 30PU, 10VSit, 10LR.

W - UCR, circuits. Only had 45mins so bit of a waste tbh. 3x6b, 1x 6c+, 2x7a+ with <30s rest. 30PU, 10VSit.

T - 30PU, 15SU, 10VSit.

F - 30PU, 15SU, 10VSit.

S - Churnet, Gentleman's first for red_rhodesha to get on her project, (close but no cigar) did Jill the Traverse and The Nose a couple of times to warm up. Then to Bizarre 7B+, wanted to try this for many years, well chuffed to get it pretty quick (dropped top on flash, then couple goes to do it from standing, then got it next go from sitting). Topped out obvs. Afternoon at cottage on some lovely easier stuff. 30PU, 15SU, 15VSit.

S - Churnet, warmed up at Gentleman's again, red got even closer than yesterday but still not quite finished it off. Then over to Wright's, my first time here and really enjoyed it. Managed Simple Simon 7B+, flashed Fingers 7A, and eventually got The Undercut 7A after much flailing. The idea was to try Point Break (carries on through the roof after the undercut) but the starting moves were hard enough! Failed dismally to make any impression on Quill.

Av 70.1 kg.

Not great training week but brilliant weekend, so good to have a couple of days nice weather away in the van climbing.

[Will Hunt]

Fri: Wuin Rank Boods. Spent a brief afternoon session pondering how shit rhododendrons were and thinking "cor!" at some large pieces of rocks. Resolved to return with napalm. Did a few things on a clean bit up to 6C.

[jwi]

Mon mar 25
Hangboard
Max hangs 5s
14 kg both hands 5s
10 kg both hands 5s
8kg both hands 5s
-5kg left 5s, -6kg right (right felt like total max)
Attempt on -4kg on left, but could only hold 3s.

Some frontlevers with assist from resistance band

Wen mar 27
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c
8b+ bolt to bolt
8b+ attempt. 1.5 move from top
8b+ attempt. Fell on last move, but poor effort.
Stick clipped half way. Tried to link the top but fell on last move. Did it from 2nd to last bolt to the glory jug. Then repeated it 3 times without rest. Rested and did it two times again. Rested and did it again…

Still affected by stress from last week I think.
Thu Mar 28
Hangboard
20 mm
-10 kg left 5s   -12 kg right 5s
-10 kg left 5s   -12 kg right 5s
-10 kg left 10s   -12 kg right 10s
-10 kg left 10s   -12 kg right 10s
-8 kg left 10s   -9 kg right 10s   a few seconds in reserve, both hands.

Sat Mar 30
Climbing outdoors, Super Manjoc
6c
8b+ bolt to bolt
8b+ attempt, fell on last move. Felt totally fresh. Have no idea why I fell.
8b+ redpoint. 26th tie-in this year. 20th attempt.

Sun mar 31
Bouldering gym
Bouldering, mostly flashes on the easy stuff from the set from a recent comp. 45 min or so.
Campus on smallest rungs. 3-4-...-11 then 3-4-...-15 (couldn’t match last rungs)
Then 1-4-7 leading left and 1-4-fail leading right.
One more boulder.

[nai]

M - Cratcliffe. Did T-Crack. Unfortunately had bumped into a guy who came to try it too so while I was grateful of a spot and some top-out beta it meant I didn't set my camera up.

T - on a whim decided to check out Griffs, thought it would be quite skin friendly for my struggling tips. It was a bit streaky so headed to Rubicon via a similarly streaky Tor.  Repeated Kudos 3rd attempt which was encouraging then tried the Press and BSD.
Have done BSD before and came really close to repeating it, also tried the low start a bit but put most effort in to The Press, felt really solid pulling onto it but with tips complaining was struggling to go 100% at the crimp.  Very encouraged, especially considering this was third day on.  Decided to return after a rest day.

PM
Scap pullups to +22kg
pike press ups on swiss ball
archer press ups
Deadlift. Really wasn't sure about form so kept weight low and tried to get it engrained
TRX - Row, Rev Fly, Y & rev Y
dips
Core

W rest. Meant to find time for some mobility but the afternoon slipped away on a couple of chores that should have taken half teh time they did.

Th Warmed up at home then headed back to Rubicon. Struggled to get going on Millers Tale but then managed BSD in a few attempts. But anticlimactic. Got on the Press but  just couldn't lock in like I'd managed to on Tuesday.  Scenes that followed involved slapping the rock with a sunhat, Fawlty stylee, and throwing clothes around. My left lat was feeling sore, don't know if that had anything to do with my woes, equally could just have been a bit warm and sunny.
Worked the start of BSD a bit more and managed all the moves except the final one into the BSD undercut.  Sidepull was feeling pretty meh by now though, twas getting a bit warm so decided to recheck Griffs.

In the main it's still not ready but despite a streak running down Bovine all the holds were dry. This was the problem I tore my hamstring on last September having to use trickery to bring it down to my level, and still not managing it. I was made up to be able to pull on at the slots and make the drop knee move to the ear and after a couple more attempts do it totally static. That would have been good enough for the day but onto the start move, usually done with just a heel but I had to use a heel-toe previously, which is what I was doing when the tear occured.  Fortunately I could now do it with just the heel and having done it a couple of times I started trying to link the problem and it took just a few attempts to succeed, crux being messing about matching the slot.  Good scream at the finishing jug.

Core back home

F - warmed up at home and retested finger strength, despite doing no fingerboarding I've improved on all small edge/pocket grips but about the same on 20mm edges.
Burbage South for a short session - still can't touch Electrical Storm. The flakey feature thing felt awful, maybe it always does.
Managed Pebble Mill Traverse quite quickly, good techy stuff. Brains as well as brawn...
Was heading home but decided to have a quick look at Little Gem, few times reached a point where all I had to do was put a RF on and pop for the top but couldn't fold my leg into the hold.
Scap pullups back home +22kg, sets of 10 & 9, last set I was killing it, up to 13 reps and still feeling easy when I realised I hadn't put the weight vest on so was only actually  +12kg
Experimented with assisted one arm ScapPUs and static hangs

PM leg & hip mobility

S - off on family holiday

Good week, made up to do Bovine, I've been working the weaknesses that I thought the inability to do those moves exposed and obviously very happy to see that work come to fruition. Ascent was a bit sketchy, don't think I did any of the moves as well as when working them, but just to be able to do the individual moves so well while working them was really pleasing. Even though I say it myself I did climb T- Crack really well, had to technique through what is usually the campus move, which haven't had any chance of doing it previously, and the successful attempt was almost flawless and flowed so nicely, felt like I just wanted to do it over and over again. I know it's flawed with the block to start and the chip and what's in and out is questionable but for all that it's brilliant, haven't had a grin like that on top of a boulder for quite a while.

[Murph]

That sounds like an amazing haul Nai. Good work!

[Duma]

8b+ redpoint. 26th tie-in this year. 20th attempt.

Nice one!

[nai]

8b+ redpoint. 26th tie-in this year. 20th attempt.

Nice one!

Yes, effort jwi

[Duma]

And well done nai! Missed your post while replying to jwi

[tomtom]

🔥 Nai!

[Dolly]

Nai Is on it ATM
M
T Did Saruman at Anston with TT. Back still not good but TT said I looked ok. Progress on Frodo
W Bodyweight HIT
T Church crag. Couldn’t persuade Shark to come out. Did Used for Glue stand and sit and progress on the shield
F Lots of gardening lifting carrying and sawing plus HIT in the evening
S Nothing, although I walked 11.8 km according to my watch going to watch Wednesday away at Stoke. Not a great match and not great beer.
S Paralette bars ( hard aren’t they?) workout from gimme kraft plus shoulder antagonist stuff

[yetix]

M:rest
T:rest
W: recruitment hangs upto 27kg for 5s. Then went to Roof of a Baby Buddha. Good session with 5 goes slapping to where I start the stand, 2 of which latching but dabbing. Repeated from the stand twice too. Went to the cave afterwards and worked on Lou Ferrino, managed to do moves 6-13 (end) a few times and 1-3. Also linked moves 4-8.
T: rest
F: cave again. Tried to do rock atrocity from the wobbly block with little success X3. Then tried to repeat from normal start and dropped the end (heel blew out when I felt pretty good, after that RA went down hill) tried Lou Ferrino and did moves 6-13 again and moves 2-5 as well as some other links.
S:rest
S:recruitment hangs upto 27kg for 5s. Then went to Roof of a baby Buddha. Was less successful than previous session, repeated moves 1-3 most goes, but kept falling off stepping through to the spike. Went to Rhiw Goch, flashed Gap of Rohan and sent Moria within a few goes, seemed to suit me. nazguls Traverse looked like it would suit me too, so keen to go back for that and the harder varient of Moria.

Feeling a bit deflated today and not sure why given I ticked something relatively quickly, hopefully I'll look back tomorrow and feel more positive.

[monkoffunk]

Congratulations to all getting stuff done!

STG - Job interview then plan Spring Font trip.
Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Get boulder strong.
LTG - 7C

M - 30 mins warm up/comp problems. ~ 1 hour hard moves on the board with lots of rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rest.

T - Portland. Session 13. Just like last session. A tiny bit more very slight beta refinement, but not reaching high point on redpoint. Around 4-5 decent attempts, all to same place just at top of shield. Powering out and unable to initiate movement to get across to pinch. Then pull straight back on and do move. Slightly backwards progress, with all the last three sessions feeling worse than before now that I have decent beta!

Possible reasons? 1) It’s been busy at work last two weeks and I’ve maybe been getting less than 6 to 7 max hours sleep a night, which isn’t enough for me to not feel tired. 2) I maybe need to get recruited the day before, I’m just not firing at max and often climb better second day on. 3) Its all in my head, I’m building redpoints up too much.

Either way it’s frustrating feeling like I’m not giving it my best, rather than not being able to do it.

F - Night shifts. Late night thurs and long lie in. Brief afternoon session. Weighted pull ups, 5x0kg, 5x10kg, 5x30kg, 3x40kg, 1x50kg. One arm negatives each arm x2.

S - Felt a bit shit and elbowy at 0900 but I find it hard to resist the pre night psych. Felt better by 1500 after sleep. Red spider, 45 mins warm up plus middle-ish hard comp problems. Campus board. Triumph of psych over sensible perhaps.

Middle BM campus rungs:

R+L 13579
R 1357 L 13579
R+L 145
R 145(touch, missed 6!) L145
R + L 14141 (alt hands)

Didn’t quite appreciate how hard 147 was, might incorporate campusing in a little over next few weeks for some variety. Will be better rested before sessions.

S - Up solidly all night Saturday. Did some antagonist stuff when I woke up Sunday afternoon but mostly rest. Little bit of flexibility stuff early hours Monday morning.

No joy again on the project this week, but not too concerned after couple of days to consider. Bit of a dip following performance peak I suppose, hopefully get there by the end of the April. Enforced break from the crag for couple of weeks due to work and life commitments. Weight has just started to dip below 75kg though so that’s one goal on track! Psyched for more hard sessions after recovered from weekend.

[gollum]

M - Steady push day for volume. Lots of pressing in the 8-12 rep range at comfortable weights. Finish off with a bit of TRX tension work and some levers.
Really steady run at lunchtime with legs feeling lighter than I expected.

T - Pull day with Deads for warming up again. Triples for 120 which is really pretty steady and allows me to concentrate on speed and form. Slow pull ups and OAP with 3 BW on RH and 3 BW with right hand touching the wall to prevent shoulder rotation on LH. All feels like rehab progress.
Lunchtime run with a steady 5 and then a quick ten reps of 30 seconds on 30 seconds off at a quick (for me) pace.
Strength intervals at the Depot in the evening and feel way better than last week, with general success on most things I was doing. So different from last week when it was just going wrong on the same problems. Take the breaks and roll with the punches.
When I get home Mrs B hasn’t done her run so we go out for a quick 5 which allows us time to talk about the dy and just chill together.

W - A day off work. Started with 5x5 push session with bench, declines, shoulder presses and isometric flys.
Then a wander around the streets of Hudds looking for hills to run up. Felt like I could just have gone on and on but happy with a steady 10k.
A quick trip to Manchester Depot. Do a project session working on three problems that I didn’t think were my style. Got good links on first, got the second and then kept falling off top move on last. Think they achieved the objective as on first two certainly felt very physical.
Finish off with 5 on 3 off on circuit board. I haven’t done this for a few weeks and found it tough going.

T - Depot to try the new yellows and safe to say they won. Got one, close on a couple but not s chance on dome others. Go back to doing a few purples that I’ve done before. Cut my losses for a short session and go home to get s run in before Mrs B gets home.

F- Pull-ups for volume, a few OAP and locks first thing. Nice and steady. Gets my shoulders moving a bit.

S - Push day. Benching for doubles working up to a steady 95k. Think it is fear that stops me trying 100 for reps. Hate having a spotter when I am benching but do occasionally wander over to someone else in the gym and ask them to help me lift the weight off my chest if I look like I’m trapped under it. Bit of decline, bit of incline dumbbells and some work on my triceps. Finish off with some work on my serratus, which my physio thinks could be at the root of all my shoulder, bicep, tricep etc stuff around my left arm.
Then a really relaxed 5k easy on the legs exploring routes near home……failed miserably to find any without hills on them.

S - Run day. 15 miles up to Scammonden, round the reservoir, up the steps and then home. Felt great all the way up the hill but knew I was going to find five miles of descent tough and sure enough I did, with sore hips and knee by the end. Need to put effort into stretching and strengthening legs.

Great to see the fabulous thing that folk are doing on here. Need to pull my finger out and get outside.

Pleasing start to the week but tailed off towards the end.

[Coops_13]

Feeling a bit deflated today and not sure why given I ticked something relatively quickly, hopefully I'll look back tomorrow and feel more positive.

mate that sounds like a mega week, keep it up! Strong progress on multiple hard boulders !

[duncan]

Well done people. Clearly one week training in London works, more than one is less effective!

STG: Manage aches and pains. One session of strength (bouldering and/or fingerboard), one of long endurance, one of leading routes.
MTG: Colorado bucket list in May, a classic sea cliff E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Shoulder strength (Is, Ys and Ts on the rings; side planks; single arm push-ups).
T - Fingerboard: micro session of ‘max. hangs’.
W - Shoulder strength.
T -  Westway routes. 50min (6mins on / 4 mins off) session on the autobelay: 250m of easy stuff.
F - Brisk 10km walk.
S - Shoulder strength. Westway: bouldering to ‘V3/4’ followed by ~10 routes with bridbeast. Decent session. Hip stretches after pep-talk from bridbeast..
S - Shoulder strength. Hip stretches. Pull-ups.

Mediocre week for work and life but just about kept things going. Decent week for training with a mix of stuff.

Plan: continue building the strength and long endurance base. Get outside this coming weekend, preferably open the trad. account for the year. Hip flexibility.

[Murph]

Goal - tsunami

M-stretches
T-session on late junction. Made across to bad lip relatively easily but never had the stamina to see it through. Will lap bad lip first next time to make sure I have it. Stretches.
W-stretches
T-works urn bru (6b) session. Only managed about 10 of them. One or two are dead hard. Also tried James’s 7a tsunami replica. I’m not sure what I need to do but I need to do more of it.
F-
S-anstons. Had a battle with Fine Art 7A using what turned out to be the wrong foot beta (I’m not tall enough to span the whole thing from the starting hold) but went relatively quickly after. Beta Blocker flash repeat. Now I see there’s a 7C traverse that links the two. That’d be fun. Sieged Colt but no cigar. Only looked at videos after and there’s all sorts of jumping options I hadn’t considered. Stretches.
S-rubicon and then gardoms. Few goes on BSD but wasn’t firing on all four. The standard to reach here is lapping it ten times! Then at gardens many goes on Marks Roof before realising I had been pointed at the 7B. Fell off the top move of Marks 7A but by then was wasted from two long days on. Felt really beaten up. Good times.

So not many trophies for three sessions out but lots of positives.

68.0->66.7 must be doing something right.

[James Malloch]

S-anstons. Had a battle with Fine Art 7A using what turned out to be the wrong foot beta (I’m not tall enough to span the whole thing from the starting hold) but went relatively quickly after. Beta Blocker flash repeat. Now I see there’s a 7C traverse that links the two. That’d be fun. Sieged Colt but no cigar. Only looked at videos after and there’s all sorts of jumping options I hadn’t considered. Stretches.

 

I think I was chatting to you/your group at the weekend - had a little look at Tech 9 with you (horrible 7B near to colt).

I remember colt having some knack to it. I did it ages ago and haven't got close since...

Sounds like a decent day!

[nai]

Knee bar works for the short on Colt, Murph. RH undercut, LH to the usual hold then bump higher into the crack. Knee in then do a really cool pivot off it. Keep your LF low as you do the mantle.
Effort on Fine Art, took me ages to get that.

[tommytwotone]

Nai is killing it right now - inspiring stuff.


Gollum - your entries terrify me, you literally do as much in a day (and more) as I manage in a good week, day in day out...and then say you need to get out as well!


Goal still 3 x new (to me) 7as outside.


M: Nowt - working from home, mega life-admin in the breaks. Got SaabShed MOT-ed again though!
T: Gym on lunch - row to warm up and then a bit of an aimless session of weights machines, then decided to try the Crimpd app "floor core" session. Found it brick hard.
W: Trip to London with work while experiencing increasingly bad core DOMS.
T: More, worse core DOMS! Unexpected window of opportunity with an early meeting finish at 4:30pm while working from home, and no childcare run till 5:30pm. Resisted urge to flop in front of TV and instead did Crimpd antagonist workout followed by quick repeater session on fingerboard.
F: Gym on lunch. Bike to warm up, did Crimpd antagonist session with dumbbells and then TRX shoulder session - rows, Ys.
S: Morning pass and glorious weather. Finally got round to checking out Church Crag, took daughter as well. It's a lovely spot - little bit above my pay grade difficulty wise but got stuck in. Actually thought I'd done Used For Glue (YYFY!) till the beta police corrected me re: illegal hold usage (NNFN!). Spent rest of session trying it the much harder / properly 7a way. Stuck the crux a few times but then couldn't faff about and set up for the pop.
S: Nowt. Mother's Day stuff, plus an epic fish and chip feast in Morley.


Much better week "getting shit done" wise.


Church is definitely going to be place I'll go a lot over summer I reckon - literally 30 mins door to door on a clear run.


One thing I would say is a) I hadn't appreciated quite how small it is, and b) how close you are to the house past the church. For that reason I can totally see why we need to be careful about access - if I lived in that house for years and was used the peace and quiet (there aren't many other houses up that track), and suddenly I had loads of big groups of noisy people descending on the craglet in my back garden, I think I'd kick up a fuss.


I wonder if this is another place we should probably consider to be a "no-lamper" as well?

[spidermonkey09]

Good work jwi. Such an understated post I presumed it was a failed redpoint initially.

T Crack is so good isn't it Nai!

M - broken post St Leger. Elbow/bicep rehab and stretching.

T - Ditto.

W - Ditto.

T - was psyched for training but van broke down on the way home from work. As a result did nothing.

F - down to Leicester.

S- back from Leicester.

S- Malham. Back on Bat Route Unsurprisingly felt quite difficult after a few weeks off it, but heartened by the fact that this time last year I hadn't even had a session at Malham yet. Did a reasonable link on the boulder but felt really weak on the initial move into the first undercut which I used to be very solid on. Need to get back on the training and it will come. Section from kneebars to hole felt promising; I have a pretty good sequence here now, but suffered from a power shortage after trying the boulder before each time. I find this two bolt section really difficult, more so than the supposed headwall crux above which is much more my style. Felt fucked on the sequence out of the bird hole which was disappointing and sacked it off.

The major takeaway from this was that I need to decide whether I'm having a headwall session or a boulder session and not try and mix the two as it just results in me doing badly on the headwall. As i get stronger and fitter hopefully this should become more feasible. I am definitely off the pace as far as raw strength/power is concerned but am hopeful this should come back reasonably quickly. Going back after work on Thursday for a session on the boulder which should help.

[shark]

Nice one nai, jwi and cheque for when he posts..

11.0-11.1 Average 155.0 down 1.1lb on last week


M.Afternoon. Weighing light FB warm up then Higgar with dogs for session on Piss 7B. Faint breeze on the rock about 10 degrees. Beautiful day. Could lie in the sun between goes and watch pretty clouds whilst the dogs chased each other up and down the slope. Paced myself ruthlessly like a pro and made consistent micro progress on each attempt for about a dozen goes until slapped a sloper down and right of main jug but only a couple of inches off the top. Another go and slapped the same place. Couldn’t decide whether to aim for the top above the sloper or up left to the jug. Next go got between the two which was worst of all worlds. Pressure on as feeling tired, jelly babies were running low and some midges put in an appearance indicating conditions were deteriorating. Next go got the jug! - disbelief, then slight panic - quickly scrabbled to get my knee on the nose matched top and it was over. Massive grin.

T. Noon Fingerboard/ Ergo Edge Progress. Strained my shoulder a bit

W.

T.

F. Malham with Paul, Buster and Nick. Left later to miss sun. Sunny when there. Warm up routes on left in shade were occupied so went on Consenting which was a mistake skin wise. Dogging go some foot slippage but did the set up and throw really easily. Going to downgrade the throw to a lurch. First go climbed really well and got the horn but not in the ideal place - should have held it but didn’t. Second go a bit hesitant and as about to do the lurch for the horn my right hand shot off the pinch. Third go my tips were screaming but managed to shut it out to get to touch the horn. Solid session on average conditions.

S. Tree surgery. Haircut. Eve BMC presentations dinner

S. AM BMC Open discussion - good session on vision, mission and core values. PM BMC AGM lasted till nearly 4pm. Tired and a bit depressed TBH at end. Didn’t feel like training when I got home but pulled my fingers out eventually and had an ace session late session on the Ergo Edge

Good week climbing, dieting and training. Amazing to do Piss especially as it didn’t really suit me. Feels like a big deal to do a 4 move 7B in two sessions especially as I’m often a bit poor at coordination and commitment on a slap move. Fingers felt gratifyingly strong on the crimp after all the recent training and probably wouldn’t have done it otherwise.

Good to get to Malham but after a break whilst it’s been wet it feels like starting over again. Arranged to go and stay in Settle from tues-fri with my daughter and meeting Paul at catwalk on tues and fri.

Psyched with progress on the Ergo Edge over the last 3 weeks. improvements on each of the 8 sessions and upped the added weight by a staggering 10kgs. Of course I won’t be able to measure how much cross over there is to conventional edges until I do a benchmark session but on real rock there has been noticeable difference.

Feeling far more positive than last week..

[gollum]

Gollum - your entries terrify me, you literally do as much in a day (and more) as I manage in a good week, day in day out...and then say you need to get out as well!

.......just wait until I retire from work. 

[Murph]

Jwi - understated YYFY of the year! So understated I missed it first time.

Great write up on Piss Shark.

Hello James  we were quite sociable on Saturday it was a great session and good times. Always a nice place to go that.

Nai - fine art was easy when I did it the right way and very hard when I didn’t. The difference, for me, was to move my heel from the initial starting LH to a hold quite a bit higher up and righter before reaching the hold on/around the arete with RH. And then remember the hidden foot holds for the top out. Quite funny one of the fails I was straddling the arete trying to get enough friction with my knees. You’ll path it with that beta.

Next time I go there I’ll work the link I reckon because B Blocker is very easy for me - as in it still goes even when not warmed up and with wrong-handed hijinx. No doubt the 7C bit of that is either the middle or the stamina.

Colt - yeah we were strapping carpet samples to our legs for the knee bar thinking it was the only way but it was foreign territory for me. Next time I’ll try a jump. The top out is wired. I was having a bit of a time reaching round / slapping for the good LH but spent a while using the wrong part of the RH undercut to go off

[Coops_13]

T: Arch. Not a bad session climbing problems, lots of new things to try. Did a bit of campusing, managed 1-4-7 both sides 1-5-7 R leading only. A bit of 50 but fingers feeling tired so did some core and lock-off training. My lock-off is so poor, is there technique or any thing I can do apart from just trying to lock-off to train this?

T: Home conditioning session. 3 sets of: [18kg single arm 10 reps - chest press, bi curl, shoulder press. 8kg single arm 10 reps - wrist curls. 10 rep ab wheel. 10 single leg squats (not low as knee rehab), 10 squats w 18kg (more knee rehab)]

S: Arch with mates down for leaving party. Fun session climbing problems and a bit of board. Overall climbed OK but the lack of training and addition of lots of beer over the past few weeks have made me feel v weak

Less than a week now till I move to the States, climbing definitely will continue to take a back seat for a while. Can't wait to get all my life admin sorted so I'm able to get out on the real rock in CO!