8b+ redpoint. 26th tie-in this year. 20th attempt.
Quote from: jwi on March 31, 2019, 08:35:58 pm8b+ redpoint. 26th tie-in this year. 20th attempt.Nice one!
Feeling a bit deflated today and not sure why given I ticked something relatively quickly, hopefully I'll look back tomorrow and feel more positive.
S-anstons. Had a battle with Fine Art 7A using what turned out to be the wrong foot beta (I’m not tall enough to span the whole thing from the starting hold) but went relatively quickly after. Beta Blocker flash repeat. Now I see there’s a 7C traverse that links the two. That’d be fun. Sieged Colt but no cigar. Only looked at videos after and there’s all sorts of jumping options I hadn’t considered. Stretches.
Gollum - your entries terrify me, you literally do as much in a day (and more) as I manage in a good week, day in day out...and then say you need to get out as well!
I've done Fine Art, Murph. Just took a while to suss out, had to use non standard beta (i.e. Not available online). Don't know that having BB sussed will be of any use to you on the link, it joins it right at the top, probably only do the final move. Never been inspired by Fine Beta really, certainly wouldn't be faffed returning to it over and over again, it'd be purely for the grade or training benefit rather than the quality of the climbing.
Nai - fine art was easy when I did it the right way and very hard when I didn’t. The difference, for me, was to move my heel from the initial starting LH to a hold quite a bit higher up and righter before reaching the hold on/around the arete with RH. And then remember the hidden foot holds for the top out. Quite funny one of the fails I was straddling the arete trying to get enough friction with my knees. You’ll path it with that beta. Next time I go there I’ll work the link I reckon because B Blocker is very easy for me - as in it still goes even when not warmed up and with wrong-handed hijinx. No doubt the 7C bit of that is either the middle or the stamina.