[shark]

I have never climbed on a Moonboard before and I have always thought it would do me good to get stuck in especially as there is one at my regular wall - the Foundry. Thought I would set up this thread as a public prompt to get involved.

First step - download the App....

[shark]

Finally got around to downloading app.

28,053 problems!

Have to log in the setup next. Ill be using the Foundry one. Anyone know what the setup is there?

[highrepute]

i think it's called something like moonboard masters 2017

[shark]

Cheers HR

Do you know which hold set? There is a choice of A, B, C, Original School holds and Wooden holds. Pretty sure it can’t be the last two as I think the Foundry one is mainly or all resin holds

[Muenchener]

Original School Holds are the little yellows.

C I assume must be the new big reds.

In which case A & B are black & white but I have no idea which is which.

[Plattsy]

All of them I think. Set relates to colour. There's black, white,  red, yellow and wood on the foundry set up.

[andy popp]

This thread is much less interesting than I was anticipating from the title.

[shark]

Thanks Muenchener and Plattsy

Andy - I’ll send you a postcard once I get to Ithaca

[Oldmanmatt]

Thanks Muenchener and Plattsy

Andy - I’ll send you a postcard once I get to Ithaca

Well, that’s going to take a while.
Still, Odysseus got home in less time than you’ve spent on the Oak...

[tomtom]

You got 28000 problems,
But the Oak ain’t one?

(Sorry J)

[highrepute]

How many UKB users does it take to work the moonboard app?

[tomtom]

How many UKB users does it take to work the moonboard app?

Depends how much sponsorship your website gets from Moon? Possibly?

[Oldmanmatt]

On a more serious note...

Currently I’ve set our board with just B (2017 masters(black)) only and the kickboard blocks. So filters set to “foot following hands”.

F’ing B’Jazeus, but supposedly 6A+ is a tall order! Even some of our Wads took weeks to put down a 7B.

[highrepute]

Yep grading is a bit of joke on a lot of the problems.

[Oldmanmatt]

I had one kid, who I know is sending 7A/7A+ in a session, outdoors, without breaking a sweat and I’ve watched breeze through some of our harder test pieces, struggling to make a 6C on that board set. Even an “all-in-get-to-the-top” warm up, is embarrassingly hard...

Edit:
When I reset in a month or so, I wouldn’t do a single set again. Though I might try a single set with the screw ons.
Anyone else tried this?

[Plattsy]

Dropped the top of a Ben Moon Benchmark 6B at the weekend. Possibly the most effort I've used to grab defeat from the jaws of victory.

Ticked two non benchmark 6Bs last night and felt like a reyt hero!

I'm pretty psyched for the moonboard at the moment.

[dunnyg]

I think all grades should be sandbag grades, so a 6B on the board should actually be at least 6C+ outdoors etc.. Keep the indoor egos in check.

[highrepute]

A friend of mine has a theory that the grades in London walls were massive sandbags because Londoners make infrequent weekend trips to the peak/font - probably in the middle of summer. Their indoor climbing will have done little to prepare them for the subtle nature of grit and sand-stone and they return to their city wall with stories of how hard 7a is. Grades in the walls are adjusted based on these experiences. This continues until they discover a more basic holiday destination such as Magic Wood.

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

[gme]

I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.

[Muenchener]

Dropped the top of a Ben Moon Benchmark 6B at the weekend. Possibly the most effort I've used to grab defeat from the jaws of victory.

Wuthering Heights (2016 set) is my Oak

[Coops_13]

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Hope you aren't talking about me here 

[Oldmanmatt]

I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.

I’m not sure I will ever really grasp this logic.

I can’t deny it. After nearly six years of running a wall and being a setter, it’s undoubtedly true.
It’s also fair to say, that I can climb a lot harder indoors than out and I have a myriad of hypothesis (excuses) to explain that, but I’m also sure that the moves and grades are harder than their outdoor peers.
Pretty sure that 300mm of foam has a good deal to do with it, for instance...

But, where six years ago, our setting here was quite representative of the “real” grade, it’s crept up significantly.
As an example, I’ve not done much low grade stuff Outdoors for aouple of years; my limited time on rock I felt better spent slamming my head against a project. For all sorts of reasons I stopped climbing for a few months, that turned into a year (apart from a brief foray back into sport last Autumn, that scared me into restarting this year). So, a couple of weeks ago, I went back to just going out and Bouldering for fun. Deliberately not using a toppo, picking things I didn’t know and just tying it. Then, heading back and looking at the toppo over coffee to see what I’d done or not...
And was almost always way out on my grade guess, and usually down a V grade.
I mean, a Dartmoor V2 is (usually) a lot easier than I realised.
I came away fro the experience with new ideas and reset one of our V1-V3 circuits and I’m sure they’re in grade (pushing into V4 in some cases) and then climbed the other circuit in that range (set by someone else) and most of his stuff is seriously sandbag.

I think we spend so much time working on (both setting and climbing) the hard circuits, that we lose the objective ability to set or judge a lower grade. My ethos went something like “if I can flash it, in trainers, it’s V2/3, if I can flash it in shoes, it’s V4, if I have to think about it we’re heading north of V5” and so on.

[Will Hunt]

I think all grades should be sandbag grades, so a 6B on the board should actually be at least 6C+ outdoors etc.. Keep the indoor egos in check.

 


When it comes to outdoor grading, there is only one system I use:

If I flash it but have to try hard: 6B+
If I do it reasonably quickly: 6C
If it's completely nails and takes me ages: 6C+ (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358711 ; https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=438779)
If it's really amazing and absolutely needs a repeat, regardless of difficulty: 7A

[Teaboy]

I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.

Yes but this is a product and app that is supposed to be global so calibrating the grades with those used by a handful of people in half a dozen cellars 25 years ago doesn't make sense. 

[36chambers]

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Hope you aren't talking about me here 

haha whether or not, I was sure thinking of you

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font doing something other than dynos, but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

FTFY