UKBouldering.com

[Peak][Crowden Great Quarry][Various 5 - 7A+] (Read 2908 times)

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 881
  • Karma: +129/-0
[Peak][Crowden Great Quarry][Various 5 - 7A+]
October 29, 2017, 10:56:16 pm
A few new bits from Crowden Quarry this weekend. There is a good circuit up there well worth the effort.
For those without the BMC book, park at the Crowden car park on the Woodhead pass, walk up the road through the gate into the conifer trees, and follow the path left. Walk through the field and follow the path up and right, steeply, to the base of the huge spoil heaps and go around these on the left or right to the quarry behind.

Mainly South West facing the majority of the problems dry quickly and the rock on the whole is very good. Unfortunately Liturgy and
the Scrap Metal Wall is slower to dry so give it a day or so after rain this time of year.

From left to right-

The steep N facing wall the left of Unexpected Solitude

LITURGY 7A+ A superb highball. From the right climb up to the overlap, shuffle left on sidepulls and spring for
the finger rail above. Swing rightwards on improving holds and mantle.


Liam P on Liturgy

Between Trundle Warfare and Nicely Nicely. Descend via the corner to the left.

AS THE CROWDEN FLIES 6C The slab with a dynamic finish to the ledge
RUSSELL CROWDEN 6A The arete on the left hand side
SHERYL CROWDEN 5 The arete on the right from a sit start. A nice easy compression problem.

The first part of an E5 gives a nice problem on immaculate rock. The best descent is the groove to the left

TONIGHT WITH ALAN PARTRIDGE (START) 5+ Lovely arete on the left hand side
ALPHA PAPA 7A The steeper, right hand side of the arete from a sit start, great technical moves

[/url]
Liam P on Alpha Papa

A small N facing wall on the approach track has a couple of problems

CROWDEN REALITY 6B? Sit start the jamming crack to a tough mantle
SCRAP METAL WALL 6A The left side of the wall moving left at the top
SCRAP METAL SCOOP 6C The centre of the wall using a left hand gaston


highrepute on Scrap Metal Scoop

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2957
  • Karma: +162/-8
You got some lovely light on that first photo  :)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
Nice one, they gook great. Never checked that place out as the guide photos don't really give any hint of bouldering potential.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
Aha, not surprised by this having run past it three times (twice in a race) and thought to myself "I bet there's some bouldering to be had in there".

Good work!

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Nice one.. Will try and check those out later on in the week...

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20299
  • Karma: +644/-11
Finally got to go there today - in the snow :)

Only thing in reasonable nick was Alpha Pappa - and what a great problem it is.



https://instagram.com/p/BchXUWpFaPy/

No top out (snow) and I didn’t do the sit - but felt the stand was fairly solid 7A for me. It was Velcro connies today (which helped) and the moves felt really good - very balancy / barn door-y and whilst I look smooth in the video every move felt wonderfully tenuous :)

Guessing the sit used one of the side pulls out to the right as well?
« Last Edit: December 10, 2017, 02:53:35 pm by tomtom »

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 881
  • Karma: +129/-0
Good effort going up there in those conditions! (wadded)
Yeh you've lanked done all the hardest moves- the sitter starts with a nice RH sidepull and doesn't add much difficulty just a nice powerful move bumping the left hand up, high left foot onto the nick then balancy move to release the RH. Glad you thought it was worthwhile
I got some videos but am saving it for a little 'Peakoterica' edit at some point

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal