[Nibile]

Ok, so yesterday I was watching a couple of videos of Huffy's Roof at Curbar. It brings the Lip Problem up from 7a to 7c+, right?
So how is it possible that the same extension brings Musèe Imaginaire up from 7b+ to 8a?
Am I missing something?

[r-man]

Lip problem doesn't add much to huffy's roof. 7C+ into a 7A finish. You shouldn't struggle on the finish if you can do the roof.

7C+ into a 7B+ is a bit different. Dawid gave it 7C+ when he did the FA, but it has to be harder than huffy's. Anyway, doesn't seem to get many repeats (maybe none?) whereas the easier finish (Detox) has had loads of repeats and lots of people take 8A for it.

[Nibile]

I understand that the easier problem being after the hard extension makes a difference. It would be another thing doing the harder part after 7a or 7b+.
But still...
Let's say: Huffy's 7c+7a=7c+.
Musèe 7c+7b+=8a.

[tim palmer]

I think a good rule of thumb is....
Add the two 'v' grades together add 4 and divide the result by 2
So
Huffys = (10 + 6 + 4)/2 = v10
Musèe = (10+8+4)/2= v11
Seems about right

[abarro81]

I don't get what's surprising here, are you saying they sound the same grade or that the difference should be bigger than 1 grade?

[dave]

Lip problem doesn't add much to huffy's roof. 7C+ into a 7A finish. You shouldn't struggle on the finish if you can do the roof.

7C+ into a 7B+ is a bit different. Dawid gave it 7C+ when he did the FA, but it has to be harder than huffy's. Anyway, doesn't seem to get many repeats (maybe none?) whereas the easier finish (Detox) has had loads of repeats and lots of people take 8A for it.

While we're on this, does anyone actually think Detox is 8a? Felt no harder than Huffys to me, but actually a better finish. So they are either both 8a or both 7c+.

[abarro81]

Detox is 7c+ IMO

[Nibile]

I don't get what's surprising here, are you saying they sound the same grade or that the difference should be bigger than 1 grade?

The second option.
I can't see how adding a much harder finish to the same start can produce a smaller increase in difficulty. I know bouldering is not maths, but...

Tim, that seems to work, but it seems a bit arbitrary: why adding 4 and not 3, for instance? Is it a common formula?

[haydn jones]

Ive genrally found the V+V+4/2 formula tor work. However. Where it doesn't  work so well is if its a sustained endurance boulder into a one mover. So v6 traverse into a 2 move v11 adds up to v10.5 where as in reality it could be up to v13

[Duma]

I think a good rule of thumb is....
Add the two 'v' grades together add 4 and divide the result by 2

Clearly doesn't work if there's more than 4 grades between the problems.

Also very problematic for "easier" endurance problems into harder sequences.

[andy_e]

Someone needs to do some SCIENCE on this to produce a full equation.

[User deactivated]

Probably been posted before but covered well in this article I thought.

http://www.australianbouldering.com/table.html

[tim palmer]

Um I read it somewhere years ago and it always seems to be there or there abouts in places like the cave, but as I said it is just a rule of thumb and there are exceptions. 

[User deactivated]

Yeah totally agree, only a rough guide. It does say in the article there will be expetions, ie V9 into V5 could well still only be V9.

[cowboyhat]

Probably been posted before but covered well in this article I thought.

http://www.australianbouldering.com/table.html

AHHRRgggHH MY EYES!

Seriously who the fuck does that? Can someone translate/ sum it up for me please, I've got an eye hernia trying to read the first line.

[jwi]

If g₁ and g₂ are the grades of the two parts the whole is given the grade

max(max(g₁, g₂), floor(1/2 *(g₁ + g₂ + 4)))

give or take a grade.

Grades on the Hueco scale.

Some examples where this is true were given.

[Duma]

no examples given of how the grade magically drops if the two parts are more than 4 V grades apart though....

[haydn jones]

The grade dropping correct. Due to it being longer and more stamina due to easier climbing. You have to get the moves more dialed and so it feels easier. This is why such things as lets get ready to rumbleweed gets 8A. But if you add a 7B start to it then it goes down to 7C+

[Clart]

The grade dropping correct. Due to it being longer and more stamina due to easier climbing. You have to get the moves more dialed and so it feels easier. This is why such things as lets get ready to rumbleweed gets 8A. But if you add a 7B start to it then it goes down to 7C+

By that logic could I claim a higher grade by having it less dialed? Is there a dial-o-meter to quantify this?

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