[SA Chris]

In spite of being a notorious crimpnasty lover, I avoid crimpy problems in Font like the plague, esp if it's on those quartzy crimps (are they called grattons?) as they destroy my skin.

[dave]

In spite of being a notorious crimpnasty lover, I avoid crimpy problems in Font like the plague, esp if it's on those quartzy crimps (are they called grattons?) as they destroy my skin.

+1

For me the stuff on grattons is a case of do it fast or walk away. Or just don't try it.

[Will Hunt]

I split a tip trying La Super Prestat on my first day in Font. Absolute shitter. Didn't even do the thing 

[dave]

I did something similar on either 1st or 2nd day on Ange Naif. Gave myself 3 goes max, did the problem and split a tip on the third go. Elation lasted about 3 seconds before I looked down at my hand.

[36chambers]

I split a tip trying La Super Prestat on my first day in Font. Absolute shitter. Didn't even do the thing 

+1

First day, first hard problem I tried, destroyed my tips. Luckily I rolled my ankle 30 minutes later, which gave me 3 days of no climbing for my tips to recover. Small victories.

[Will Hunt]

I split a tip trying La Super Prestat on my first day in Font. Absolute shitter. Didn't even do the thing 

+1

First day, first hard problem I tried, destroyed my tips. Luckily I rolled my ankle 30 minutes later, which gave me 3 days of no climbing for my tips to recover. Small victories.

Conversely the problem we had was that it was beautiful blue sky and sunny weather ALL THE FUCKING WEEK. Which meant one rest day in the whole time we were there (we wandered round the chateau gardens in our tshirts). After day 1 I was on a downward spiral since I just couldn't recover as we were out trying hard every day. I'm praying for rain and minor injuries this time round.

[SA Chris]

we wandered round the chateau gardens in our tshirts

How did you all grow chateau gardens in your tshirts?

(sorry - it's a classic).

[cha1n]

I refer you to the OP's (Lisa's) blog after attempting crimpy problems; http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23092.msg514752.html#msg514752

I'm starting to think everyone (including myself) would have been better off advising her against the crimpy ones from the start now! Although we've all ruined our Font trips and some point by getting carried away on a problem I'm sure. I'm mostly in the '3 tries and walk' camp now, especially if it's clearly wrecking my skin.

[Bonjoy]

Dark room, buthiers.

For once I agree with this fool. Was going to suggest the same.

[a dense loner]

You're always one step behind my mad friend

[monkey boy]

I'd just drop your grade and try what Font is famous for - slopers, compression, mantels and slabs.

[a dense loner]

Yeh like you do when you go away monkey boy