[LLAlhadeff]

Hello,

I've never been to Font before  in over six years of climbing.

I was wondering if anyone can recommend some good low to mid 7s to try. Here is the specification:

• I like small edges with reasonable sized moves between them
• I like overhangs but not slabs, somewhere between 10 and 50 degrees
• The harder moves should be at less than 3m (preferably near the ground) or I'll get scared
• It should be hard for AlistairB

The last one's essential 

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

[lagerstarfish]

top end of your grade range, top end of quality

Rubis

[lagerstarfish]

maybe sit start to La Barre Fixe at Elephant?

fingery pockets rather than  edges, but you can't get scared

first move is the crux (unless you are Jasper and fail repeatedly on the easy moves at the top)

sit starts are always harder for the longer legged gentleman (fact)

[dave]

Barre Fixe is absolutely desperate unless you're a gnarly pocket beast.

You want to get on Surplomb De Coquille out the back of Isatis, absolute banger.

[Footwork]

La Joker is on crimps and felt tough for 7a!

[AlistairB]

Just to add, we found La Mouche just now which seems a good shout as well. I'd seen it in a video ages ago but couldn't remember the name.

[LLAlhadeff]

top end of your grade range, top end of quality

Rubis

Looks good!

Claims to be not freezing, too...

Barre Fixe is absolutely desperate unless you're a gnarly pocket beast.

not really, no...

You want to get on Surplomb De Coquille out the back of Isatis, absolute banger.

Thanks

[Duma]

http://bleau.info/milly/11624.html
http://bleau.info/milly/11623.html
I remember these both being lovely, bit out of the way though I suppose.

Dave's spot on re Surplomb De Coquille too.

[lagerstarfish]

top end of your grade range, top end of quality

Rubis

Looks good!

Claims to be not freezing, too...

everybody's favorite arms dealing daywalker doing it

[Fultonius]

Go to swizzy instead?

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[Will Hunt]

La Joker is on crimps and felt tough for 7a!

FTFY HTH

[JamieG]

La Coeur at elephant. 7a. Famous for its heart shaped feature that you crimp.

[benno]

La Coeur is a bit morpho (full disclosure: I'm bitter because I couldn't do it), the guy in the video looks very tall. Good edges and big moves... Carnage jump start might be worth a look? Easier than Rubis and still a classic, if not as good.

[Footwork]

La Joker is on crimps and felt tough for 7a!

FTFY HTH

How did the other 7's feel to you, Will? 

[dave]

la Coeur is one of those which is a lot nicer to look at than it is to climb. Basically reach up to a bony crimp, stand up and crank it into your chest. The forest has a lot better to offer!

[highrepute]

I'd say be careful with the goals. It's not uncommon to get completely schooled on a first font trip, especially if you favour strength over technique.

Barre Fixe is absolutely desperate unless you're a gnarly pocket beast.

You want to get on Surplomb De Coquille out the back of Isatis, absolute banger.

I think barre fixe is easier for the short (especially that first move) might suit Lisa I think, but not Alastair.
I agree about Coquille, get to it!
If you really want to burn Alastair off La Grande Marche 7a+ at Canche aux Merciers is perfect. Way easier for the short but with no obvious reason why. All 3 shorties in my group flashed it and got to watch on and gloat as the tallies all failed to send. Doesn't happen often that.
Defo not La Coeur
La Mouche fits the bill. Good problems as well.

[Will Hunt]

La Joker is on crimps and felt tough for 7a!

FTFY HTH

 

How did the other 7's feel to you, Will? 

[lagerstarfish]

La Grande Marche 7a+ at Canche aux Merciers is perfect. Way easier for the short but with no obvious reason why. All 3 shorties in my group flashed it and got to watch on and gloat as the tallies all failed to send. Doesn't happen often that.

it might look like a crack, but you don't have to swing off jams or anything

that daywalker again - you can see the holds

[tim palmer]

Lapin ou cannard is good, steep, low ball and 7a near coquille.

Le memel (7a+) is a cracker at isatis main.

I would avoid rubis as it is easiest for the tall and climbs like a slab

[Fultonius]

I remember quite enjoying this problem at Gorge Aux Chats:

I managed it and Font trickery has never been a strong point of mine.

[tim palmer]

Jeu de toit at sabots (7a)
Beetle juice at cuisiniere (7a+)
Two more low low 7s

[LLAlhadeff]

I'd say be careful with the goals. It's not uncommon to get completely schooled on a first font trip, especially if you favour strength over technique.

I am expecting that but at the same time it would be nice to have some idea where to start :D

Powerful doesn't necessarily mean you can't use technique though?

If you really want to burn Alastair off

Naah, not really. What a harsh (and unlikely) goal that would be! Luckily for him he's safe. I think we probably won't climb the same stuff much. But I've heard there are several problems in Font so it should work out.

Thanks  for the suggestions guys! I shall now take my schooling, as is only right

[rodma]

Carnage at cuvier
Alta at isatis.
Both fingery with flat landings


Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[tc]

Les Monos, Buthiers. More mono madness.

[a dense loner]

Dark room, buthiers.