[Will Hunt]

Yeah but you're an old lawyer now. This is you, this is:

[Footwork]

please remove that picture of me. It's taken on my bad side making me look like an old git.

[webbo]

RETIRE.

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN!!!!!!!
4 days to go.

[SA Chris]

Whoop!

[tomtom]

RETIRE.

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN!!!!!!!
4 days to go.

Fantastic. You'll never be busier (that's what my parents tell me!) but no more managers or NHS to deal with!

[webbo]

They have already asked me to come back for 2 days a week for 3 months.

[SA Chris]

Name a price..

[dave]

Mid-year update.

1. Keep injuries at bay and hence capitalise on winter training better than last year. Slightly dodgy right elbow since March but mainly OK. Still failed to convert training into any limestone successes bar Sean's at Stoney.

2. Do some 8s. 8a FA burbage linkup and Stuey in the School, I suppose that counts with the caveat that the former is a complete guess at the grade, and the latter isn't even rock.

3. Finish off Caviar. Not been on it, unlikely to happen how, can't be arsed.

4. Do some bouldering trips in either UK or Font. Been to Lakes, County, Yorkshire and Font.

5. Ideally get to alps, do some 4000m peaks. Not "some" but I'll take the NW face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4184m.

[Muenchener]

Mid Term review

Alpine/trad goal: a couple of decent summer trips on alpine rock routes and/or uk trad.

Having trad or alpine ambitions is pointless for me at the moment. I simply don't have the time free in the summer. Too many family commitments in the UK. My dad died last year, my mum moved into a home this year and on the more positive side, my son loves spending time with my brother & sister. So I've spent the bulk of my summer holidays over there for the last couple of years and will do for the foreseeable future. That leaves only a few weekends per summer free for alpine adventures, and then the weather is  a huge random factor. I simply won't realistically get the mileage in to improve or aspire. So I'll accept being only an occasional alpinist, do whatever I get done and be happy.

Three decent trips so far: Oberreintal, Dolomites, Kaisergebirge. Two classics ticked in decent style, arse thoroughly kicked on the third. Success.

sport climbing.

2016: 7b

Decent spring season. My first 7a-in-a-day was followed by my first 7a+, also in a day. The 7a+ was almost an anticlimax: three moves of actual climbing, the purest bouldering-on-a-rope I've done, with the rest about VS.

On the minus side for the autumn: my planned partner for a trip to Spain can't make it due to pressure of work. On the plus side, I have another regular partner who has a very nice looking 7b+ (soft, supposedly) that he wants to project in the Frankenjura.

Am regarding my current alpine activities as the Base Mileage training phase.

[Wil]

1. Sort my wrist out. Mostly there, still a little clunky on occasion but not generally causing a problem or pain.
2. Sport - Body Machine, New Dawn, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. Not done much sport this year really, and haven't managed to regain the fitness for these routes at least, or been on any of them!
3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. Not been on any of these! Have done Godzilla and Hanging Out at Glastonbury though, as well as A Few Dollars more and Roring Forties on Hoy.
4. Something alpine, big, rock and mostly free (and keep running regularly to be fit for it). 3 routes completed in Greenland, including new route. Running has been semi-regular, 9 Edges next week, not trained enough for that!

[Murph]

..... Actually plan and record training, not just messing about.

Success will be signified by getting properly light (BMI of 20) as a means to an end of climbing several 7Bs and maybe even harder....

Did the training thing, with a few detours along the way, best thing was inspired by tips from a few on here particularly Nai and Sasquatch (thanks guys!) to do max hangs of up to 10s. Strong fingers result and I enjoyed the training.

Also turned out I wasn't as porky as I thought. BMI of 22 is a pretty decent 7B "send weight" and feels quite maintainable. Thirteen 7s in a month means I must have achieved the consistency I sought.

Now for the "something harder" part and grit 7B which was what I meant back then anyway.

[tomtom]

My 'grade pyramid' for 2015 and 2016... (new problems that is...)
Not too bad so far, considering arrival of child #1 3.5 months ago...

Hope you all like my meticulous documentation

[moose]

Bit early for post-match analysis isn't it? I thought you bouldering types were only just getting started at this time of year?! That said, I have found myself reflecting on the year's efforts too.  Totting up the year to try to reassure myself that it's already been okay...... as I see bugger-all prospect of much happening in the months to come.

[tomtom]

I've had good value on the new lime ticks the last couple of years.. so not expecting a deluge of new 7'a this fall

[moose]

Any you would recommend. particularly of the non-seepy variety.  I could see myself getting "cabin fever" after  few too many Depot sessions and being willing to make a 4hr round trip for some dirty crimps.

[the_dom]

8A.

Close, but no cigar. One 7C+/8A done and came close to two 8As before good conditions deserted us.

At least one Font trip.

Nope. Made it to Magic Wood though.

Get married. Survive wedding.

Tick.

Make decision as to where my wife-to-be and I will be living.

Sorta.

[tomtom]

Any you would recommend. particularly of the non-seepy variety.  I could see myself getting "cabin fever" after  few too many Depot sessions and being willing to make a 4hr round trip for some dirty crimps.

'kinnel, my computer has eaten my reply to this post three times in the last day.... 

OK, Peak - usual TorBicon suspects + Blackwell is good, decent problems on Beginners wall (seem to favour the taller climber too..). Conies Dale is well worth a visit - nice problems for me there - big spans to positive holds (and soft grades )

Tried S.Lakes lime? Woodwell is great - and doesnt seem to suffer from seepage as bad as many other places. Toms wall area OK (though some collapsed) - but RH end great. Kiss of the Dragon and Rigpa at 7B good.. also just up the road is Trowbarrow and the Shelterstone - which is pretty much all hard, but strangely compelling and dries very fast (takes no drainage)...

[moose]

Cheers fella.  Not done much at Rubicon, and only done Weedkiller Traverse and Rattle & Hump start at the Tor.  Never been to Beginers Wall or Connies, so keen to try; though they are both at the limits of a practicable one-dayer (a shade over 2 hrs drive) so would only be worth it if guaranteed to be dry.

South Lakes is nearer (around 90 mins drive), I've ticked a few at Woodwell - did Beauty of Being Numb, Screaming Slave, and Kiss of the Dragon last October.  Not tried Rigpa.  Could be worth a trip to try that, and remind myself that Not Bad Dave is too hard for me!  I quite liked O'ert the Road last time I went - done Angel Deelite and quite fancy trying its varients or working something like Blood Sugar Sex Magic, some bad landings though and seemed a bit proner to damp than "normal" Woodwell last time I went.

At Trowbarrow, I've only climbed much on the Red wall (Shallow Grave I recall being good).  I have always assumed that the Shelterstone stuff, other than maybe the v5 traverse, would be too hard - I guess I should actually make the effort to have physically proved!

[tomtom]

@trowbazza, Pit problem 7B? (Some say plus) has always felt within range for me even though I've not done it.. same with Not Bad Dave. I can nearly do several of the moves and some in isolation etc... stuff up at Farelton worth a look too.

Whilst we're on that neck of the woods have you been to Thorn? If not - it's a must.

[T_B]

Plus imo Vitruvian is more like 7B (7A+ if you're tall?). It felt easier than Pit Problem and Texas Hold Em.

[Doylo]

Pit Problem is 7b if you start with the high right hand pinch and just put your heel on and go. Gets a lot harder if you start any lower and the proper low start is nails (7c). Neds problem is a sweet problem on that face. Lovely beta.

[tomtom]

Plus imo Vitruvian is more like 7B (7A+ if you're tall?). It felt easier than Pit Problem and Texas Hold Em.

I can barely pull on Vitruvian - let alone make the next move stick. Feels super bunched up for me..

[r-man]

Bunched? Are you thinking of something else?

I found Pit Problem easier, though I remember thinking Vitruvian was soft at 7C.

[tomtom]

Bunched? Are you thinking of something else?

I found Pit Problem easier, though I remember thinking Vitruvian was soft at 7C.

Yup. Two opposing sidepull edges and a high left foot, then either throw a rh up or try and do some toe/heel snagging around to the right. Maybe memory is wrong but felt very awkward...

[moose]

Never been to Thorn - long drive plus walk-in has always put me off (I can deal with one, not both, especially if the weather is dubious). 

Quite up for raiding missions to the South Lakes now though.  I have convinced myself that the Shelterstone is worth a look - see if my recent embrace of fingerboarding reaps any rewards; cheers y'all for helping me with pre-winter mojo.  Hopefully I might be able to get to the Peak Lime and Anston too (need to see off Reservation and the Nazgul problems).  Yorkshire grit has some great bouldering but on winter weekends it is either wet or it's Almscliff...  and sometimes I just cannot face trudging up the muddy hill to queue under problems.