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Aims For 2016 (Read 96027 times)

dave

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#175 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 11:08:48 am
End year update

Mid-year update.

1. Keep injuries at bay and hence capitalise on winter training better than last year. Slightly dodgy right elbow since March but mainly OK. Still failed to convert training into any limestone successes bar Sean's at Stoney. Elbow situation took a huge nosedrive after I wrote the above, deep tendon thing, probably caused by going at it too hard after 3 weeks off. The lesson is: never take time off climbing. Still not right after 4 months of rehab but getting there. Still 10 months out of 12 with some kind of elbow issue isn't great. Need to be more diligent with general back/shoulder stability/mobility work in 2017.

2. Do some 8s. 8a FA burbage linkup and Stuey in the School, I suppose that counts with the caveat that the former is a complete guess at the grade, and the latter isn't even rock. Nothing since the above.

3. Finish off Caviar. Not been on it, unlikely to happen how, can't be arsed. Ha ha ha

4. Do some bouldering trips in either UK or Font. Been to Lakes, County, Yorkshire and Font. Had another good dadsquad weekend to Lakes since the above, Sourmilk and Carrock.

5. Ideally get to alps, do some 4000m peaks. Not "some" but I'll take the NW face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4184m.

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#176 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 11:44:13 am
I'm unlikely to get any significant climbing in this side of New Year, so here's my roundup! I've had a good year, a few things to iron out in the next 12 months.

1. Sort my wrist out. Mostly there, still a little clunky on occasion but not generally causing a problem or pain.

2. Sport - Body Machine, New Dawn, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. I've done hardly any sport this year, and nothing like the mileage to get these done. I have ticked a few good routes though, got quite close to flashing Face Race on LPT (2nd go)

3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. I've not ticked these specific goals, but my trad year has been productive and adventurous, which is what I was really after. Have ticked Godzilla, Hanging Out at Glastonbury, the Bardsey Ripple in North Wales, Dreadnought at Berry Head, Roaring Forties and A Few Dollars More on Hoy, followed Fiend up a couple of XS routes, Kangaroo Wall at Wintour's, a few good low Es and a surprise quick HP of Here and Now at Sheigra.

4. Something alpine, big, rock and mostly free (and keep running regularly to be fit for it). 3 routes completed in Greenland, including new route. Running has been intermittent, 9 Edges in September went ok, but still struggle with cramps on long runs, better planning and training needed!


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#177 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 12:15:44 pm
A fairly long list, but every item looks achievable idividually. We'll see if I get the full house.

1. Climb 8b before the end of summer. YYFY! Main goal completed with "Philip Cuisinere", and a lot quicker than expected. Took a brief play, then two sessions. Basically climbed it twice in a row after a kneebar popped during the easy finish.

2. Onsight 8a Nope. Really haven't done much onsighting this year. Flashed a few 7c+'s in rapid succession, and that's about it.

3. Don't get injured My upper body has been fine, but I have long-term knee damage and problems with heel-hooking. Not to mention damage from my fall in July.

4. Have more time for friends and others at the crag - in other words, more empathy required. I think I'm doing quite well on this front. I think I'm just becoming more empathetic and chilled as I get older.

5. Reduce the OCD behavior regarding studying, routine etc and be more open to new ideas in general. Work in progress. Turns out that some stuff still bothers me to the point of anxiety, but certain people/situations damp the effect. Spain was good for this.

6. Try to have a meaningful relationship (goes hand in hand with 4 and 5).  :wub: Err, this one's interesting! I think I've made and consolidated a good few close relationships. I just haven't got a girlfriend.

I've been beating myself up a bit about my climbing this year, but it turns out I've done quite a bit. A lot more in the first half of the year though.

Plus, I've got into trad and had one of my best trips ever when I went to Mallorca with Ciro and lived on the beach for a week.

I love rock climbing.

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#178 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 12:39:16 pm

1. Rehab volar plate sufficiently that it's not an issue on my big trip. Avoid significant injury on said trip.

I think I can call this a success, at least by my standards. No significant injuries, just the usual grumblings, tweaks and old injuries from years ago that occasionally rear their ugly heads. Could do better though, I suspect I'll never again crimp or mono without fear like I once did...

2. Australia - Groove Train, Punks in the Gym, Tiger Cat, do a fuck load of climbing, run over a kangaroo, jam my thumb in a snake's buthole
Whilst I failed totally to jam my thumb up a snake's ass, Ella did manage to hit a Kangaroo, although it seemed to hop off relatively unscathed afterwards. Groove Train, Serpentine and Punks were all awesome lifetime must-dos. Did more bouldering than expected and unexpectedly did The Wheel (have I mentioned that before Stu?) which was fucking cool and made me feel like a hero. Didn't make it to the Blue Mnts unfortunately.

3. South Africa - Do a fuck load of climbing
Despite nearly dying in a car crash, we did some good climbing, and even some moderately hard climbing. Also ate a lot of butter whilst experimenting with fat-adapted dieting.

4. America - Livin' Astro, the rad looking 8b+/8cs at the New, Lucifer, Golden Ticket?, Do a fuck load of climbing
We changed plans so I didn't even get on any of the above. I did have the most awesome 6 weeks in ColoRADo though, where I did more hard stuff than I ever have before, had a 2 week block where I felt indestructible and, more importantly, got engaged. So that was all rather good. Bouldering lots and being the lightest ever since I was pre-puebescent seemed good for me.

5. General shit - get back to form, onsight 8bs, onsight/flash 8b+
Definitely felt like I got back on form after hurting myself at the end of last year. An unexpectedly good year for redpointing and bouldering, though a little disappointing from an onsighting perspective. Next year's goals will thus be more onsighty...


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#179 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:01:28 pm
1. Climb outside of Scotland, and the UK, as much as possible. - mostly yes: Cornwall (not enough), Bristol area, North Pembroke (not nearly enough), Rhinnogs and Gogarth area (plenty there, shout out to Cheque as it was great being part of his project, The Complete Works possibly being the highlight of the year), Chullila (cool), Albarracin (great), Margalef (frustrating), Zillertal (puntery but good). On the downside autumn has been rubbish and only characterised by depression and lack of gritstone / any motivation.

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#180 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:27:08 pm
*In an ideal world* do my proj in decent time and spend the rest of the year doing easier stuff and climbing at different crags aka: having a nice time. *all dependent on work, injury and wetness*

Did the route but in September so didn't do much of the second part.

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#181 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:35:39 pm
Lagging way behind here. These are my 2015 goals!

Quote
- Recover from current injuries
- Show some discipline and common sense to avoid future injuries
- Climb all the classics in my grade range surely a bit of a life goal
- Buy a house got there eventually, unfortunately it was in Bristol instead of Sheffield but hope remains high for a return one day
- Finish last year of degree Find it really hard to do anything on this as it's not being forced upon me by my employer and I don't really need it for current role...
- Go walking Not really as interested in this now that I'm not living near the peak
- Use my mountain bike Definitely no longer interested in this one, who wants to buy a mountain bike from me?

2015 was a terrible year, apart from managing my 8a before 30 goal, there wasn't a lot that went right. I ended up quitting my job in Sheffield at the end of the year and returning to Bristol to try and reconcile with my (then) ex-girlfriend. Whilst in Sheffield the focus was always on my girlfriends very evident depression (for which she was medicated for) and how to keep her happy but I'm only just realising now that I was actually depressed too because of all the stress. I often backed out of a lot of social situations because of it and didn't really take advantage of the great scene up there. Despite that, I still met some really inspiring people (you know who you are) and caught glimpses of what life could be like when everything starts to work out.

Mixed feelings on whether the move was a good decision or not but I'm now just trying to move forward with things regardless of what happens on the relationship front and I'm hoping 2017 is the start of better things.

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#182 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:41:50 pm
1. Rehab injuries to the point they don't affect my climbing: Fucked left shoulder, perma-fucked left ring finger & 2x dodgy knees
2. Complete at least 2 of the new routes I've already scoped out/bolted/cleaned: 2x Devil's Gorge, 2x Yorkshire & 2x Pen Trwyn
3. Maintain current continental OS level and push on to doing the double, i.e. 2x f8a in a day (guess i need another Chulilla trip!?)
4. Move out of/change current role at work to escape politik bullshit: lubricant co-engineering with OEMs appeals atm
5. Maintain a significant relationship whilst doing all above

1. Shoulder is much better, ring-finger marginally improved, one knee improved
2. Did newbies at Malham & Parisella's; and a bonus newbie 7c+ at the Gop, South Wales; came close on one of the DG projects, but failed to seal the deal - bolted another at Kilnsey for 2017
3. Fail - Lack of opportunities for OS as much of Boven didn't suit my OS'ing abilities; only did a single 7c+ OS this year Chulilla booked for Feb 2017, so an opportunity to redeem myself then  ;D
4. Fail - still in the same job, and politik hasn't gotten any better
5. :wub: Big win of the year - very happy to discover significant others' aptitude for adventurous holidays with a 2 week trekking & diving trip to Jordan :wub:

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#183 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:43:15 pm
Just realised I never put any aims in back in Jan.


I think climbing-wise I've been saying any new 7 by end of year - can't see that happening unless there is some miracle between Xmas and New Year. TBH I'd take the lowball arse-drag dab-tastic 6c at Woodhouse I've been unsuccessfully sieging as a bonus.


On the plus side, I have:


1) Got TTT Jnr mk II on the way
2) Rid myself of a terminally toxic work management structure / environment , though at the cost of doing a job at a workplace I dearly loved
3) Got a new job which seems better in nearly every way
4) Sorted out some fundamental problems with my house that in retrospect have been there since we moved over 2 years ago
5) Got approval to put a board in the cellar (result of 4, will drastically help when 1 happens)
6) Got to Font, albeit a manic 2.5 day long weekend where I climbed like complete crap


For many reasons I have thoroughly disliked 2016, so am kind of living in blind faith that in many ways 2017 can only be better than the last 12 months.



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#184 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 01:45:32 pm
4. America - Livin' Astro, the rad looking 8b+/8cs at the New, Lucifer, Golden Ticket?, Do a fuck load of climbing
We changed plans so I didn't even get on any of the above. I did have the most awesome 6 weeks in ColoRADo though, where I did more hard stuff than I ever have before, had a 2 week block where I felt indestructible and, more importantly, got engaged. So that was all rather good. Bouldering lots and being the lightest ever since I was pre-puebescent seemed good for me.

:-\ Assuming this isn't some sort of new climbing terminology, congratulations!

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#185 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 02:16:03 pm
General:

Keep up the antagonistic training I've done a pretty good job of this - Pilates once a week, did the strength and conditioning class at Hallam uni gym for a while, and more recently have been doing a good amount of antag work as part of my training programme. I've also realised that antag stuff is a great warm-down and that doing a warm-down is more effective than simply doing static stretches after climbing.

Start a structured training programme again. Been doing this for about 2 months now. Going really well and enjoying it. I've had a finger injury since before I started which is nearly better, so hopefully back on the fingerboarding soon

Sort out job. Biggest tick here. Found out this weekend I have got a new job. Bit of a dream job and includes more money and more time to climb!

Sport:

RP 3 7cs done 5 7cs. Subjectively, at the start of the year 7c felt like "this is really hard, I really want do it" and have now slipped to "7c? may as well"

Try something harder than 7c Did a 7c+ (in a couple of goes) and my first 8a. Didn't expect to do an 8a this year, my main aim being to do a signle 7c, so this felt like a great achievement.

Trad:

Onsight 5 E5s This year I've onsighted 5 e5s, flashed 3 and done a few ground up. I've had a really good year of trad (which means a good year all round!) having climbed relatively hard in lots of new places

Flash or Onsight E6 I flashed Nosferatu but that's only e5 really. The only other e6 I tried I headpointed

Do more routes which I find hard/scary: Roofs, exposed corners, jamming cracks. I've certainly done well on the exposure front by climbing on sea cliffs, and I feel better about this in general. I've done relatively more jamming, but not enough.

Climb on Sea Cliffs for the first time Pembroke, Anglesey tick. Being in Cheque's new film has been great. Keen to get around to more sea cliffs next year, particularly Cornwall

Headpoint something e6 or above which is near my physical limit I headpointed Perplexity at Millestone which, whilst not at my limit, was still quite hard

Bouldering:

Get back in to bouldering, do more 7bs (same as last year!) Half a tick. I've been really getting in to bouldering since starting my training programme, which is great. I've done multiple 7a/+ since then and flashed my first proper 7a. Haven't tried any 7bs.


abarro81

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#186 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 02:27:03 pm
:-\ Assuming this isn't some sort of new climbing terminology, congratulations!

Thanks! (yeah, it's not some new obscure terminology for a niche bit of training!)

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#187 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 04:29:43 pm
This is it for the year.

Main goal is the usual: E5. Fail. Three E4s and some quasi-E4 abroad so the base of the pyramid is a little higher. Gave Supersonic a shot but had lost the necessary fitness and form by the time I got on it.

7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep). Get on a 7b+. Not close. Usual 7a onsight but neither Spring nor Autumn sport campaigns happened.

Climb at Gogarth and Fairhead. Pentire, Hoy and Ceuse (the Fairhead of sport climbing) were fine alternatives.

Climb at Font. at least once. Family orientated trip, but still had a great time of course. The lad is really into bouldering outdoors, not quite so syked by climbing walls.

Rabada-Navarro +1 other at Naranjo de Bulnes. A 38 year old project - very satisfying.

Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Very good trips to Picos, Wendenstock and Hoy.

Keep doing shoulder and other supportive exercises assiduously. Managed this most of the year. Lapsed in Autumn as generally burnt-out from climbing and other things and the left 'good' shoulder has been troublesome for the last three months.

Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route. Fell off Supersonic several times and generally tried a bit harder on trad.



Overall, a good year for climbing. Most of the action was concentrated in a 6 weeks summer period when the family were away. Clearly divorce is my best option!

I sustained my first ever significant finger injury which took out January to March and meant I was always catching-up on fitness. September to December were unproductive for the more familiar reasons of post-trip burn-out, work issues, and a shoulder niggle.

Feel like I am making glacial progress towards E5. The only change was trying harder to the point of falling occasionally, but it's good to be reminded how important this is. It's surprising how little trad. mileage I did. BITD I considered I needed 50 leads to get from E1 - and better fitness - to E5. Three more weekend trips in April or May might have been enough.

Sport and bouldering have been in complete stasis, I must address this in 2017.



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#188 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 05:26:14 pm
3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. followed Fiend up a couple of XS routes
That was a good weekend and great having you along, all went smoothly. Great Crack Of Porth Oer "I'll just stop saying 'below' now, just assume whenever I make a move I mean 'below'"  ;D

Shout out to Duncan too :) And Spielberg himself of course. :yes:

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#189 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 06:30:02 pm

Quote
Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Managed 1 x 8a, 3 x 7c+ and 3 x 7c. Finishing Aberration would have been nice for another 8a but opted to focus on the RHS of Tor while it was dry. So no biggy, it'll be dry again by April.

Raindogs - did some good links over 2 sessions in Spring then lost interest
Powerplant - never dried
Call of Nature, Why Me? YYFY
Sissy - didn't manage to get on it
Body Machine - YYFY - complete with obligatory fall from the end of traverse prior to success.
plus other Peak WIPs - Obscene Gesture, Laughing at the Rain, Obscene Toilet

raise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b, number of 7a & 7a+ OS, flashed Tin Of, the only 7b I tried.

consistently OS E4 - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list. - Few E3s, as ever didn;t do enough.

Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains
Always wet when I have free weekend

Fuck all the red, still the best year ever.

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#190 Re: Aims For 2016
December 20, 2016, 09:09:22 pm
Mid Term review

Alpine/trad goal: a couple of decent summer trips on alpine rock routes and/or uk trad.

Having trad or alpine ambitions is pointless for me at the moment. I simply don't have the time free in the summer. Too many family commitments in the UK. My dad died last year, my mum moved into a home this year and on the more positive side, my son loves spending time with my brother & sister. So I've spent the bulk of my summer holidays over there for the last couple of years and will do for the foreseeable future. That leaves only a few weekends per summer free for alpine adventures, and then the weather is  a huge random factor. I simply won't realistically get the mileage in to improve or aspire. So I'll accept being only an occasional alpinist, do whatever I get done and be happy.

Three decent trips so far: Oberreintal, Dolomites, Kaisergebirge. Two classics ticked in decent style, arse thoroughly kicked on the third. Success.

Quote
sport climbing.

2016: 7b

Decent spring season. My first 7a-in-a-day was followed by my first 7a+, also in a day. The 7a+ was almost an anticlimax: three moves of actual climbing, the purest bouldering-on-a-rope I've done, with the rest about VS.

On the minus side for the autumn: my planned partner for a trip to Spain can't make it due to pressure of work. On the plus side, I have another regular partner who has a very nice looking 7b+ (soft, supposedly) that he wants to project in the Frankenjura.

Am regarding my current alpine activities as the Base Mileage training phase.

... and nothing further to report.

A year that started well then fizzled. For a variety of reasons - illness, family, weather - barely got out at all in the Autumn. Did a solid amount of indoor bouldering though, could call that a strength phase of sorts, and now transitioning into trying to acquire some power endurance in time for the postponed Spain trip in (hopefully, tbc) early spring.

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#191 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 07:56:44 am
Think my goals where to solidify at 7C+ and work towards moving up further... i did one more 7C+ this year (very close on walk on now though). But to be honest I've lost most of my psyche for climbing and have taken up Muay Thai kickboxing instead. Struggling to balance the love of climbing with the love of kickboxing....

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#192 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 09:13:35 am
I'm not sure I actually posted any goals but those that I set at the beginning of the year for my training plan were:

O/S 7a
Flash 7b
RP 7c
Become Chartered
Get a job I'm happy with.

I got quite a few 7a O/S this year which has boosted my confidence a lot. It seems to be a grade I know I can do and expect to flash them if I route read correctly and don't give in.

I flashed a 7b+ at Gandia a few weeks a go having failed on some earlier in the year. It's definitely soft (7a+/b) but I'll take it as a holiday grade.

I only tried a few 7c this year: tremolo and a 7c+in the costa blanca. Tremolo felt like it would go but being in London until July and then having a dissertation to write through the summer put a stop to my Malham intentions. Nearly did the one in CB but grabbed the draw rather than the jug - typical.

On the life front, I gained chartership in October and got a job I'm happy with in June which means I'll be permanently in Leeds for 4 years (until my girlfriend finished her PhD) and I can have some normality in my life. We also bought a narrowboat on which we now reside. We think it's great and it means we can live out near Gargrave this summer meaning after work hits to Malham and Kilnsey will be easier.

Overall I'm happy with how my climbing has been, I've not got out much in the UK and haven't trained much since March. Despite a few finger injuries I've managed to maintain and slightly increase my level and I'm (despite a pulley injury) in a good position to move into 2017. Just need to meet some more Leeds locals so feel free to drop me a message if you want to get out anytime on the grit or limestone.

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#193 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 09:23:42 am
Quote
TomToms aims for 2016:





I did brilliantly! No targets meant I have overperformed in 2016!
16 new 7A's
8 new 7A+'s
2 7B's

Not as good as last year, but the arrival of TT jnr has got in the way somewhat! (as well as being my highlight of 2016!)

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#194 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 10:05:12 am
Better late than never...

 - Bouldering wise - any of the following would be good: Brad Pit, The Joker, Tetris, Roof of a Baby Buddha, Cosmic Wheels, Special K, Lotus, Mr Fantastic, Stoned Temple Pilots, Diesel Power, Rock Atrocity, Lou Ferrino...

- Would also really like to do a trip to Swizzy having never been before.

- But my main aim and new long term goal is 8b sport.

I don't think I did a single sport climb. WTF 2016?

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#195 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 10:20:44 am
I had these as my rough aims (started posting on here mid-way through the year):
Quote
Fix wrist and keep it fixed/untorn Since injured knee, pulleys, elbow.....  :furious:
Sport: 7b+ YYFY, ticked one earlier in the year then retired from sport climbing
Bouldering: Get solid at 7B and do a few more 7B+s Done a couple of soft 7B+s which I think is good given the number of injuries I've had
Trad: Do some (preferably HPs)
Trips: Slovenia in March, maybe China or similar later... Went to Swizzy instead so I'm happy
Maybe get back to one arm pull-ups Ish
Get total up to 100 7s (on 49 at start of year) So close, on 92 7s (boulders) which is pretty good going considering injuries and the fact I live in London  :2thumbsup:

Not a bad year all in all

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#196 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 10:21:23 am
CLIMBING
1) Try harder to get out bouldering before the limestone sport starts - too many wet days have robbed me of the mojo to even bother dragging the mats into the car, let alone properly project anything - anything off the grit tick list would be a bonus.
Fail with mitigating circumstances - weather never really played ball before the routes season started.  Managed one quality tick - Scary Canary in a short session - but not much progress really.

2) Keep up the new-found enjoyment of finger-boarding - once, preferably twice, a week - more for contrast/relief from work than any real aim at improving my climbing.
Pass - still doing blocks of fingerboarding (though having a break from it right now due to pain from a nasty fall - feel like I have torn something in my chest, plus my old neck / shoulder badness has reawakened).  Quite pleased with the little set-up I now have in my attic - transgression fingerboard, pulleys and weights, weight-vest, fan for mitigating the summer heat, heater for mitigating the winter cold.  The next step: MAGNETS!!!!

3) Continue to work through the usual suspects at Malham / Kilnsey.  Next up: GBH (onto The Groove or Overnite if successful).  At Kilnsey, either one of the long extensions at the left side (Bullet or Stolen), or embrace the likelihood of years-long failure and get on Grooved Arete.
Pass - pretty good year - managed 13 routes of 7c+ and harder this year at the King and Queen of my home stamping grounds.  Highlights were Stolen (my first, and likely only ever 8b/a+), Overnite, GBH, Last Action Hero, and A Mighty Fine Ass.  Next year, I am hoping to get stuck into Predator and maybe the Groove.... open to suggestions for a Kilnsey project (Vanilla Path, Ecstacy?!)

4) Climb something "substantial" not at Malham or Kilnsey - preferably Supercool at Gordale, or maybe something at Yew Cogar or Chapel or Giggleswick.
Partial - did Cave Route LH at Gordale and had a few sessions on Supercool but never really got close to RPing.  Still, well up for a return to see Supercool off, or maybe Defcon; although, the usual Gordale problems may well scotch my intentions - finding partners and the risk of killing tourists at weekends.  Also feel a need to back to Chapel to reacquaint myself with the 7c+s at the right-hand side - Righteous Doctors etc - and to get stuck into something in the Peak - maybe at Cheedale Cornice.


NON-CLIMBING
5) Keep trying to re-balance the work/life balance - work smarter during office hours and reduce the slightly needless number of late nights in the office (taking up finger-boarding has been somewhat successful in encouraging this).
6) Drink booze less often.
7) Spend less nights titting about on the internet and more time reading books or watching decent films.
8 Go to some live events - comedy, music, football, theatre, boxing, whatever - try to experience less of the stuff I purport to love filtered through a screen.
Failure on all fronts really. 
Managed a 50 day tee-total period but this was in response to drinking too much, too often beforehand, and I haven't covered myself in glory since.  Still spending too many late nights in the office (during my last appraisal, my line manager, seemed bewildered by my seeming lack of ambition - I think he has mistaken drowning for treading-water).  Went to no live events and still spend too much time idly browsing the net.  Only recent uptick is that I am reading more enthusiastically of late.



Duma

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#197 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 10:38:52 am
I'm not sure I actually posted any goals but those that I set at the beginning of the year for my training plan were:

O/S 7a
Flash 7b
RP 7c
Become Chartered
Get a job I'm happy with.

I got quite a few 7a O/S this year which has boosted my confidence a lot. It seems to be a grade I know I can do and expect to flash them if I route read correctly and don't give in.

I flashed a 7b+ at Gandia a few weeks a go having failed on some earlier in the year. It's definitely soft (7a+/b) but I'll take it as a holiday grade.

I only tried a few 7c this year: tremolo and a 7c+in the costa blanca. Tremolo felt like it would go but being in London until July and then having a dissertation to write through the summer put a stop to my Malham intentions. Nearly did the one in CB but grabbed the draw rather than the jug - typical.

On the life front, I gained chartership in October and got a job I'm happy with in June which means I'll be permanently in Leeds for 4 years (until my girlfriend finished her PhD) and I can have some normality in my life. We also bought a narrowboat on which we now reside. We think it's great and it means we can live out near Gargrave this summer meaning after work hits to Malham and Kilnsey will be easier.

Overall I'm happy with how my climbing has been, I've not got out much in the UK and haven't trained much since March. Despite a few finger injuries I've managed to maintain and slightly increase my level and I'm (despite a pulley injury) in a good position to move into 2017. Just need to meet some more Leeds locals so feel free to drop me a message if you want to get out anytime on the grit or limestone.

this sounds like a fucking great year

James Malloch

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#198 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 12:03:29 pm
this sounds like a fucking great year

Yeah I'm definitely chuffed with it - but it's seriously been lacking in getting out in the UK. The boat has taken up many weekends doing DIY. Looking at my logbook I've only climbed 6 sport routes in the UK this year over 4 sessions. Everything else was on the trips to Spain and Chamonix spread over 5/6 weeks which was great.

Had a couple of bouldering sessions in the UK too and managed a couple of 7's but loads less than I would have liked. Though finally doing Morrell's Wall at Almscliff made up for that.

Happy that I've a good base to work from in the new year and now that I'm settled (and out of London) I'll hopefully be on the Yorkshire limestone twice a week when it's dry - I've a chat with my boss about dropping to 4 days a week (or 9 day fortnights) once Christmas is out the way.

Maybe my LTG of The Groove at Malham by 2020 (without sieging it) will be on track...

Wood FT

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#199 Re: Aims For 2016
December 21, 2016, 12:45:54 pm
Climb Arch Enemies/New Dawn/Raindogs/Pierrepoint
Get on Supercool and K3
Do something of relative merit in Siurana at Easter
Get down to the South West more (Ansteys, Brean, Cheddar etc)

Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself.

Enjoy bouldering, I.e. get out and have fun on circuits with a good team. Get on Suavito ffs!

General:

Don't fuck it up
Keep saving
See family more
Apply self at new job
Ride a horse
Get Nige on hard sport (the 3rd reincarnation of Kershaw)

Good luck everyone

Sport climbing -

I had a few more sessions on Arch Enemies, best effort trying to get into undercut/pod. I find it very frustrating but am enjoying plugging on. Had a bolt to bolt on Raindogs again and was happy to find easier beta (and easier routes for girlfriend!)

After a good day at Malham in May getting Herbie and Obsession I lost the knack but did get on K3 and Supercool to check out if they would be possible in the future. I'm more keen on Supercool, obvs, but I can't resist that cornice burl. Keen to get keen for them.

The Siurana trip wasn't good but had a great time at Gorge Du Tarn in September, onsighted 7b for the first time, a softy I think but c'est le guiebook. Wonderful area.

South west

went to Brean, cheddar, sennen, bosigran, Torbryan (amazing) and haytor. Really enjoying these places and will be living down there next year for a bit so hopefully get to try hard at Ansteys etc

Trad

Minimal, yellow edge on Avon Gorge being the highlight. Hard not be safe with threads that big.

Bouldering

Had some fun days though have fallen out of love with Gritstone, finally tried Suavito but can not for the life of me get the crimp up and left, so hard. Did get to the 3rd side pull on WSS though which is dream of mine to lash out.

Other

Don't fuck it up
Keep saving
See family more
Apply self at new job
Ride a horse
Get Nige on hard sport


Didn't fuck it up, kept saving (leave for NZ/SEasia on January 2nd, woop!). On the train to see my dad now, left job on good note so hopefully some temp work from them when I get back. Nige sold me his very big and very small shoes so guess that's that then. Didn't ride a horse but did find a blow up boat in the garage down south, anyone got a cheap outboard? Also went to see any questions being recorded.

Happy Christmas and new year everyone, good luck with your future plans

 

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