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California screamin (Read 2652 times)

Gritter

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California screamin
December 20, 2015, 08:10:14 pm
What's the general consensus on the moves after getting the lip pocket with left hand and crescent crimp with right hand please. Most abrasive grit I've ever touched, but what a corker.

Gritter

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#1 Re: California screamin
December 21, 2015, 05:15:57 pm
Bump

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: California screamin
December 21, 2015, 08:43:29 pm
No idea what the consensus is, but I built feet and took the arete with lh, then up with rh to a decent hold and okay topout. The decent hold was on the green side so might need a clean. Judging by photos other folk thrutch up the lhs, which seemed a bit grim to me.

Andy B

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#3 Re: California screamin
December 21, 2015, 08:45:44 pm
There's an thin right hand sidepull on the right side of the arete, but i can't remember whether i used it to get the pocket or as an intermediate after, but anyway, with left hand in the pocket, I guppied the base of the top arete with my right, chucked a sketchy left heel up beneath the pocket, an locked to the high boss/ end of the break, which wasn't as friendly as i'd hoped, matched this and finished by rocking up the left side.

Gritter

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#4 Re: California screamin
December 21, 2015, 09:14:09 pm
Thanks. Did you take it as a guppy or pinch bonjoy? The sketchy heel method definitely requires bigger bollocks.

T_B

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#5 Re: California screamin
December 21, 2015, 10:55:00 pm
Pretty sure I did exactly the same as Andy. I remember the heel for definite rolling over to get the boss with my left (fell off that move once as it wasn't as good as expected, taking a big fall over the mat/s)

Bonjoy

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#6 Re: California screamin
December 26, 2015, 09:43:51 am
Sorry Gritter I don't remember

Gritter

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#7 Re: California screamin
December 26, 2015, 11:20:54 am
All good mate. Got it done now anyway.

 

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